Rocky Portals of Dove Dale.

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improves at every step, until it reaches the very place where I have paused to retrace its character, and it terminates with one of its sublimest features. A mighty pillar of insulated rock, which has its base in the stream, rises from the left bank of the river; a bold mass of rock, whose conical summit penetrates the clouds, occupies the right between these huge portals flows the river Dove. Through this contracted space, some flat meadows, clothed with beautiful verdure, appear; and still farther in distance, bold swelling hills close in the prospect. The effect of this scene is truly magical: it is one of those transitions from one description of scenery to another, which excites surprise by its suddenness, and charms with its beauty. Through this magnificent portal we passed into the lovely meadows beyond, where we stood a while to gaze upon the gloomy ravine we had just left. We then sat down amongst a grove of

hazels in a sweet little vale, as dissimilar in character to the scenery of Dove Dale as if they had been hundreds of miles apart. The river flowed gently and beautifully before us---the cattle were grazing in the meadows, apparently unconscious of the presence of any human being---the red-breast poured his lone requiem from amongst the bushes, that were scattered over the rising ground where we sat---and the rush of the waters through the narrow part of the dale came softly upon the ear, which was soothed with its The scene was delightfully tranquil, and the mind, which only a few minutes before was excited to emotions of sublimity and terror, sunk into a state of pleasing repose and luxurious languor.

murmurs.

Dove Dale was one of the favourite resorts of the enthusiastic and sensitive Rousseau during his residence in its immediate vicinity,

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Rousseau in Derbyshire.

and he is said to have planted many rare and curious seeds in this sequestered spot. At this time he lived chiefly at Wooton Hall, a retreat which was procured forhim principally through the influence of the historian Hume. Rousseau lived in continual agitation and alarm. Plots and conspiracies, he supposed, were entered into and carried on against his personal safety and happiness in every country on the continent of Europe, and he sought an asylum in England from the imagined persecutions of imaginary enemies. In April, 1766, when Rousseau had just settled in Derbyshire ---" Here,” says he, "I have arrived at last at an agreeable and sequestered asylum, where I hope to breathe freely and at peace." But here he did not long remain "at peace;" he soon found cause of quarrel with those who were endeavouring to serve him---and in the month of April following he quitted his " agreeable and sequestered asylum," and returned to the Continent, heaping reproaches on his best friends. He was an unamiable, petulant, and angry man. The rent of the house in which he lived had been greatly reduced, to allure him into the country; his spirit revolted at this, and as soon as he heard of it he indignantly left the place. Whilst at Wooton Hall, he received a present of some bottles of choice foreign wine; this was a gift, and his pride would not permit him to taste it; he therefore left it in the house untouched, for the next comer. For

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some reason or other, or more probably for none, he had determined not to see Dr. Darwin. The Doctor, aware of his objections, placed himself on a terrace which Rousseau had to pass, and was examining a plant. Rousseau," said he, "are you a botanist ?" They entered into conversation, and were intimate at once; but Rousseau, on reflection, imagined that this meeting was the result of contrivance, and the intimacy proceeded no farther. It was indeed

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Return from Dove Dale to Hopton.

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impossible for any body to be on terms of friendship long with the eccentric and ill-humoured Jean Jacques Rousseau. Madame de Stäel, in her reflections on this strange man and his writings, has admirably depicted his character. "His faculties," she observes, were slow in their operation, but his heart was ardent: it was in consequence of his own meditations that he became impassioned: he discovered no sudden emotion, but all his feelings grew upon reflection. Sometimes he would part with you with all his former affection; but if an expression had escaped you which might bear an unfavourable construction, he would recollect it, examine it---perhaps dwell upon it for a month---and conclude by a total breach with you. Hence it was that there was scarcely a possibility of undeceiving him, for the light which broke in upon him at once was not sufficient to efface the wrong impressions which had taken place so gradually in his mind: a word, a gesture, furnished him with matter of profound meditation; he connected the most trifling circumstances like so many mathematical propositions, and conceived his conclusions to be supported by the evidence of demonstration."

From the meadows, where we a while reposed, we pursued the course of the Dove nearly two miles farther, through a deep vale, barren of wood, and, with one or two exceptions, devoid of beauty. We then left the margin of the stream, crossed the hills to the Ashbourne and Buxton road; and, leaving Tissington on our right, returned, by the way of Bradburn, to Hopton, and from thence to Wirksworth.

SECTION VII.

Visit to Ilam.---Vale of Ilam.---Ilam Hall---interesting Apartment there. ---Village Church.---Chantrey's Monument for the New Chapel.--Observations on Monumental Sculpture.---Ancient Stone Cross in Ilam. ---View in Ilam Vale after a Rain-storm.---Congreve's Grotto.---Morning Scene.---The rivers Hamps and Manifold.---Contemplated Improvements at Ilam.---Second Visit to Ilam.---The New Hall.---Intended Conservatory and Picture Gallery, &c.

Du

URING an excursion to Dove Dale in the autumn of 1820, I visited Ilam, one of the most romantic places in any part of the kingdom. On my way to this secluded spot, I passed along the road on the eastern side of Thorpe Cloud; and, approaching the mill where the river Dove emerges from Bunster Dale, I had a very pleasing view of Ilam Hall, nestled amongst woods, and environed with hills. This delightful place, which has long been celebrated for the beauty of its scenery, is the residence of Jesse Watts Russell, Esq. It is situated on the Staffordshire side of the river Dove, and therefore not properly an object for these excursions; but with those who visit Dove Dale, Ilam is always a point of attraction. Thorpe Cloud, one of the highest mountains of Derbyshire, stands like a mighty sentinel over its woods, gardens, groves, and meadows, that quietly repose in the deep hollow at its base. Its proximity to Dove