CHAPTER XII.

FROM THE EMBOUCHURE OF THE DANUBE

TO CONSTANTINOPLE.

Distance 370 miles.

Embouchure of the Danube. -Varna.- Victory of the Ottomans over the Hungarians here.-The Bosphorus. -Scenery of the Country.- Buyukdere.-Terapia.— Various Buildings.-View from the Golden Horn.Arrival at Galata.

Or the four mouths by which the Danube empties itself into the Black Sea, that of Sulina, being the safest and best, is the one through which the vessels generally pass. These mouths are separated from each other by low marshy islands, often covered with water, and which run into the sea in the shape of sand banks.

In about eighteen hours after the vessel leaves the embouchure of the river, a number of mosques and minarets indicate the approach to the strong military position, on the western coast, and about midway between Sulina and Constantinople, called Varna. This place is celebrated for the signal

defeat of the Hungarians, on the 10th of November, 1444. Ladislaus, their king, in his first campaign against the Turks, under Amurat, had reached St. Sophia, on his way to Adrianople, when winter approaching, a treaty was entered into, between the belligerent parties. The Sultan swore by Mahomet, the twenty-four prophets, the souls of his father and himself, and by his sword; while Ladislaus swore by all that should have bound a Christian, to hold the treaty sacred for the space of two years. Upon the faith of this engagement, the Sultan retired his forces into Asia, but shortly afterwards the Pope seeing that this truce interfered with arrangements he was making in Italy, for another crusade, dispatched a cardinal to remonstrate with the King, and to absolve him from his oath, on the plea, that although an oath in a good cause was binding, one tending to the loss or injury of others, or in favour of infidels, was void. Ladislaus entered into his plans, and having concerted with the Christian powers, who undertook to defend the Hellespont and the Bosphorus, and to furnish troops from Constantinople, again had recourse to arms.

Amurat, though obstinately opposed, succeeded in crossing into Europe, with 60,000 men, and met his enemy at Varna, where, before commencing the action, he took from his breast the violated treaty, and holding it up to heaven, cried aloud :—“Oh Christ! thou seest the treaty sworn to in thy name :

if thou art the True God, it is for thee to punish the perjurer!" The battle was contested with great bravery and slaughter, and ended in the total defeat of the King, who was killed, as was also the Cardinal, who had absolved him!

This disastrous event effectually checked the ardour and neutralised the power of the Latin fanatics, and nine years afterwards the imperial city fell under the scymitar of Mahomet, Amurat's son-the Greek emperor, Constantine Paleologue, who died in its defence, having in vain called upon the Christians for assistance.

After the battle of Mohatz, the banners of the great prophet were unfurled upon every fortress on the Danube, even to the Austrian capital, which was besieged in 1533, but from which the Turks were ultimately obliged to retire, with the loss of 40,000 men.

The vessel remains at Varna a sufficient length of time to enable the stranger to form a tolerable idea of a Turkish town. There are the palace of a pasha, a mosque, a hospital, several fountains, and two or three coffee-houses, much frequented by the Turks. The men, who are larger and finer persons here, than at Constantinople, dress more à la Turque.

Roman and Greek coins are frequently found here, and are offered for sale by children in the streets.

The boat having left Varna, to complete the last portion of the voyage, the impatient traveller will descry, in about eighteen hours, the castles that protect

The Bosphorus, the strait which, running out of the sea of Marmora into the Euxine, separates Europe from Asia. The mouth of the strait being small, considerable danger is incurred in hazy weather, and vessels are sometimes lost in attempting the passage.

The entrance into the Bosphorus is defended by fortresses placed on the acclivity of projecting mountains, on either side, beyond which others are seen towering still higher towards heaven. On entering the Boghaz or throat, lines of batteries, apparently rising up out of the water, and built as much for appearance as for use, seem to defy all intrusion. As the steam-boat glides along, the eye catches only some of the more prominent objects, which, for the length of twelve or fourteen miles adorn both shores, on the approach to the "Queen of Cities." The European and the Asiatic coast are equally covered with villas and gardens, adorned in the most tasteful manner, having verandas and trellis-work, covered with roses. Those on the margin of the shore have arched entrances for the caiques, or small boats, through which, by means of short canals, they glide into the centre of the court-yard. Beyond the villas on the margin of the strait, and

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which have their foundations in the water, others rise in succession, stretching up to the summit of the mountains, and forming a picture upon which the eye might rest with undiminished pleasure for many hours in succession

"Struck with a splendour never seen before, Drunk with the perfumes wafted from the shore; Approaching near these peopled groves we deem That from enchantment rose the gorgeous dream!"

On the left, a fortified castle, which, from its height, seems to pierce the azure sky, becomes a commanding object of attention; and this is scarcely lost sight of, before some formidable batteries indicate the approach to

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Buyukdère or the "Lovely Valley," a spot selected for the residence of the diplomatic corps. mile distant from hence, another range of batteries, on either shore, mounted with fourteen large guns, introduce us to

Terapia, a small place, which is a favourite spot for the Oslamin elite. At a considerable elevation, is seen a Roman aqueduct which formerly conveyed water from one mountain to another, and finally into the city. On the left is a royal tanyard, and near to it, a valley called Kurkaghadge, thickly studded with trees, and famous for Keffs or pic-nics. Proceeding onward, a number of fairy looking villages, mosques, harems, chateaus, and