has considerably increased, and there are a number of buildings now erecting in the environs, besides several very splendid edifices that are actually in progress, which will contribute greatly to the embellishment of the city. Berlin has fifteen gates and is surrounded by walls and pallisades. The streets are, in general, both straight and wide, and of a considerable length: some of them exceed in width those of almost every other capital I have seen; and there are likewise several spacious squares. The river, which is here navigable for small vessels, runs through the streets, and hence the latter bear some resemblance to those in the Dutch towns, particularly as trees are planted before the houses. There being no regulations for building, some of the houses are lofty, others low, and of different forms and dimensions. The soil is dry, and absorbs the rains, however heavy; but the clouds of dust during summer are as offensive to the eyes as to the organs of respiration. About one half of the year the air is piercing, in autumn wet, and in the winter severe. Although the houses are constructed of brick, they are stuccoed in so excellent a manner as to resemble stone ; indeed it requires a skilful eye to detect the imitation; and so many of them are embellished with columns and other architectural ornaments, as to produce a fine effect. In this respect the streets of Berlin may be compared with our Re

gent-street and Pall Mall East, in London. Yet one thing, that does not indicate the best taste, is, that the exterior of many of the houses is painted, not of a stone colour, but green and yellow, or red and blue, &c. ; the effect of which is more bizarre and gay than pleasing. Many of them have reflecting glasses on the outside, after the Dutch mode, to enable the inmates to see the objects in the streets without opening the windows, and the latter have also canvass blinds projecting on the outside. Yet, amidst all this show and splendour, the Berliners have neglected to provide themselves with what is absolutely necessary in a great city, or indeed any town we mean a common shore; instead of which, the water and filth are allowed to stagnate in the gutters, so as to occasion a most offensive stench. In fact, this nuisance is, at times, so abominable, that it is impossible to keep a window open, without being nearly suffocated by the disgusting odour. What, too, is very extraordinary, the gutters, thus loaded with filth, are opposite to the houses of the nobility and persons of distinction, with merely a cover of wood thrown over them to screen the offensive view. Custom may undoubtedly reconcile people to much that is at first disagreeable; yet it is difficult to conceive how it can inure any people, calling themselves civilised, to such physical abominations, and to what is actually preju

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dicial to health. How is it possible to enjoy the splendour of architecture, while the sense of smelling is so nauseously offended?. one might almost as easily endure to eat carrion, if it were served up on gold plate. Surely the government should get rid of such a disgraceful nuisance in the capital, which, we are persuaded, has met with the reprobation of all travellers.

In front of most of the houses of the first class, the entrance has a gentle ascent, with massy railings. These are extremely awkward, a most glaring encroachment on the footpath, and a great interruption to passengers; and their removal would contribute to the beauty of the streets. Many of the principal edifices are lofty and extensive. The houses contain an extraordinary number of windows, some of which are made double in order the more completely to exclude the winter blasts. One of the most pleasant situations to reside in is what is called Unter den Linden, running from east to west, which is always resorted to as a fashionable promenade, and is to Berlin what the Prado is to Madrid, or the Prater to Vienna. This is about a mile in length, and of great breadth. In the centre is a walk sixty feet broad, ornamented with trees and seats. Houses are built on each side, and between these and the walk is a space for carriages. This promenade is crowded with all ranks and ages, especially during the evening, when numerous loungers are to

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be seen on the benches; and during the heat of day it is a cool and agreeable retreat. There is a constant bustle in the Mall, and carriages are rattling to and fro continually. At one end of it to the west, is the celebrated Brandenburg Gate, a most magnificent portal or propylæum, consisting of massive columns of the Grecian Doric order, through the intervals between which is seen the Thier-garten, or Park. This fine piece of architecture, which is probably inferior to no structure of the kind in Europe, forms a most noble termination to the Linden walk.

At

The house of Earl Clanwilliam, the British Minister, is situated to the right of it, with an extensive garden; and opposite to this is that which was the residence of Prince Blucher. the other extremity is the Royal Bridge, and many noble buildings connected with the military and academical institutions: this bridge is made partly to draw up to admit vessels. From the river is a canal to the Oder on the east, and another to the Elbe on the west side.

With regard to the public buildings, some of them are on an imposing scale of grandeur, and strike a traveller as peculiarly magnificent. It may be in general remarked, that great luxury is displayed here in edifices, furniture, decorations, and ornaments. Among the principal structures may be classed the Royal Palace, a short distance beyond the bridge, of a quadrangular form, and

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covering a great extent of ground. It is about 300 feet wide, upwards of 100 feet in height, and one part of it fronts a garden formerly used for exercising troops, where is a statue erected to the memory of Prince Dessau, who organised the Prussian infantry. Another side looks towards the Spree; and a third to an area or square, and to the bridge over the river, connecting old and new Berlin. In the centre of this bridge is a colossal equestrian statue in bronze of the great elector Frederick, which weighs 3000 cwt. and was erected by his son in 1703. This has been extolled for the majestic character the artist has invested the elector with: so far indeed as regards mere execution, it deserves praise; but it is not that memorial a prince would wish erected, for the figures of slaves introduced are fitter to perpetuate the memory of a despot than a christian ruler. Over the the principal gateways to the court, which is very noble, are lofty columns resting on high pedestals, ornamented with a variety of devices. Among the inscriptions over some of these is the following, which had just undergone great repair :

"HOC SVIS FREDERICUS."

Strange, however, to say, directly opposite to one of the entrances to the palace stands a flourmill, which is permitted to offend not only the eye, but disturb the ear by the noise its ma