was well content.

In four days I had killed 4 salmon, weight

52 lb., and one may easily go farther and fare worse.

Mr. Bradshaw greatly distinguished himself, either after or before my departure, or some time or other. Rumour said that in Frenchfield Dub he rose three salmon in three casts, but only landed one of them, the reserve not having come to the front in time to be of service. However, he covered himself with immortal honour; he had ten salmon to his credit. Now he has only to kill an eagle, a stag, and a seal to earn "Ye Hunter's Badge" (The Moor and the Loch, Colquhoun).

CHAPTER XXVII

WALES-THE WNION, THE ARTRO, LYNN OGWEN

Bless me, what mountains are here? Are we not in Wales?-VIATOR.

THE month of May 1891. La Grippe had been raging, and my eldest son and I had been amongst the invalids. Change of air we must have, to restore our debilitated frames. An excursion to Dolgelly and Barmouth was decided upon. After the manner of anglers I had convinced myself that walking about in waders was the only restorative. So onward we sped along the vale of Dee, past beautiful Llangollen, with the river foaming between the rocks and shaded by the youthful green of the overhanging woods; then on past Bala Lake with the coots sitting on the water regardless of the snorts of our iron steed. On and on we go past the Berwyn Mountains, and after leaving the watershed of the Dee we descend the vale of the Wnion from about its source: how likely the river looked as it rushed through rocks with a whirl, and then meandered through rich green meadows so quietly as if it had never frothed and foamed over the boulders.

It was the first hot day of the season, and we felt quite baked on our journey. Little did we think that intense frost and snow were being got ready for us, the bonny month of

May though it was. We put up at that most comfortable hotel The Golden Lion, my good wife, my son, and myself. How hot it was far into the night-the valley was like an oven! We longed to scale Cader Idris to enjoy the cool air on the top. How grand the mountain looked, with its welldefined jagged outline against the blue sky! On the morrow the sun shone from a cloudless sky; it was hotter than ever. We could only crawl about, we all felt done up with the heat. I just managed to crawl about a mile down the river to see how it looked, and it did look most tempting a nice water of a pale ale colour.

I interviewed a fishmonger near the entrusted with the sale of licences to fish.

bridge, who was He did not give

me much encouragement; he said I had come too late for the trout, and too early for the sewin or sea-trout. Alas, it was ever thus! I never go to any strange place at the right time. However, I procured a licence for the following day, and hoped for the best.

In the afternoon we proceeded by rail to Barmouth along the lovely estuary of the Mawddach. It was low water, and we saw some shell-ducks on the sands. The old mansion of Arthog Hall, which is now a sporting hotel, with shooting and fishing attached, looked very pretty among the trees. The estuary is crossed by a wooden bridge, and we are soon at Barmouth. From our apartments we had a charming view of the estuary and the Cader Idris range, also of the steep woods which clothe the sides of the estuary.

I

On the following day the weather was much cooler. proceeded by train to Dolgelly, and soon donned my restorative waders, and wended my way down the river, as I intended to fish up and commence from the junction of the

Mawddach and Wnion. When I had got out of the shelter of the woods to where the river was open I met such an icy blast from the north-west that I was glad to seek the shelter of the woods. Oh, how cold it was just round the bend, and how cosy the other side of it. However, the water was in very nice order, and the formation of the river all that could be desired, a very perfection of a trout stream. There appeared to be no reason why it should not contain fine trout; but the angler should never expect to find trout numerous in any small stream infested by the voracious sea-trout at certain seasons of the year. There can be no doubt that sea-trout and salmon devour all the trout they can get hold of, by which means the trout are well kept down. I soon discovered that the trout were small and certainly not numerous. fished from ten o'clock to half-past two and captured eleven trout, the largest of which weighed seven ounces, and the rest were much smaller.

I

On the following morning, Friday, the 15th of May, the mountains were covered with snow, and presented a most picturesque appearance-such a contrast to the green woods. The weather was bitterly cold, worthy of the month of January. On several occasions snow fell on the mountains, and a little fell even in the valley.

Having been informed that there was good fishing in the river Artro, which flows into the sea near Pensarn Station, I decided to try it. Accordingly on Saturday I proceeded by rail to Pensarn, whence I walked to the village of Llanbedr, about a mile from the station, and I ascertained at the post office that the water was divided into two sections. From Aberartro Bridge to the sea the charge for the season was £11s., and no short-time permits were granted. Above

Aberartro Bridge weekly permits were granted, and I was informed that in the lower section there was fair sea-trout fishing after July. As there was then no chance of sea-trout, I decided to fish above the bridge. At the bridge two streams unite and form the main Artro river. I had to walk at least a mile to Aberantro Bridge. At this point the banks of both streams are densely wooded. I decided to fish in the larger stream of the two. The streams were very low, and owing to the bitterly cold weather there was an almost total absence of fly.

Not knowing the river, I lost much time fishing in a dense gloomy wood for about half a mile, above which the valley was open and more likely for trout. I fished from about half-past eleven to a quarter to four o'clock and only captured three very wee trout, and I came to the conclusion that the stream was more suitable for worm than fly, so on Tuesday the 19th I again proceeded to the Artro provided with a bag of worms. I commenced at eleven o'clock with worm, with which I contrived to lure one trout, but not another bite could I get; so I changed to fly, and with fly killed ten trout. They were all very small, and I came to the conclusion that the Artro was not worth fishing.

As I had to walk at least two miles from the station before I commenced to fish, much time was taken up in walking. However, the scenery is very pretty and repaid me for my trouble. The weather was certainly very unfavourable for sport; water dead low, and the weather very bright and cold. I had not one condition in my favour. The lower portion of the river may be worthy of notice after July, during a run of sea-trout, but I am pretty sure that the trout fisher must be content with an average of about eight to the pound or less.