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the Governor and Generals rule supreme. The majority of the troops are now lodged in Barracks, to the great relief of the inhabitants, who are, notwithstanding, discontented with their guests. The Austrians are too stupid, and the Prussians too mechans and too proud: the former are preferred - but the fault found with both is they have no money to spend. When you hint at the past times of the French troops, the countenance of the townsman often brightens: "Ah! that was a different thing. I don't know how it was-bread was half
its present price-there were as many florins spent then as kreutzers now" "Sacre Dieu, ces diables avoient toujours de l'argent" -said a poor fellow, whose appearance was quite in keeping with his dissatisfaction. A keen, ragged, barber, who performed the functions of Sacristan, was much fonder of entertaining us with the grievances of the town's people, than the history of the Virgins and Saints, in a Church he showed us. He was transported to find a sympathizing listener. His story was the same: the French knew how to spend their money but these Austrians
6 MAYENCE. PRUSSIAN AND AUSTRIAN TROOPS.
were brutes - they bought nothing but beer and tobacco and the Prussians were such faquins and so proud there was no speaking to them without the chance of being knocked down; and then he would launch into abuse of the latter, and ridicule of the former, in phraseology not the most seemly, and conveyed in a confidential half-whisper apparently proceeding from his habitual apprehension of a Grenadier at his elbow. The Austrians and Prussians, who detest each other, were at first continually disturbing the city with their broils. The most dangerous of these, which the newspapers detailed, was however caused by an Hungarian regiment, complete barbarians, with whom it was impossible to live peaceably, and who are now removed. The animosities of the troops are now somewhat softened by habit, and military regulations. They associate pretty generally, but not very cordially. Prussian conceit and vivacity sometimes treat the humdrum gormandizing Austrian rather unceremoniously. A Prussian officer drinking with some Austrians, joined in toasting military exploits with some cordiality, when
an Austrian, by way of compliment, proposed the health of the battle of Waterloo, a favourite theme of Prussian pride-calling to the waiter to bring a bottle of Champagne and six glasses. The Prussian taking fire at the paltry honour intended for his achievements, bawled out with an expression of contempt, "bring me six bottles of Champagne and one glass."
The policy of dividing a large Garrison between inveterate enemies, and of separating it from the possession of the Town, may justly be questioned; but the Fortress was pitched upon as one of the centres of strength of the German Confederation, and it is found less objectionable for the military and the inhabitants to garrison it with the troops of the two principal powers than with motley contingents of the great and little States. The Grand Duke of Hesse, too, willingly takes the acquisition of the city and a fine arrondissement of the ancient French Department of Mont Tonnerre, subject to this drawback. On any rupture, however, between Austria and Prussia, his City is sure to become a scene of bloody struggles, and to fall into the hands of the
strongest party. Mayence and the district extending along the banks of the Rhine from Bingen to Worms, of which it is the Capital, are now under the civil government of the Grand Duke of Hesse's Council of Regency, headed by a President. The French governed the whole department by a Prefect, a Sub-Prefect, and one or two Sub-Officers; but German form employs about forty Counsellors of Regency, bailiffs, upper bailiffs, and other statesmen in detail, who pocket salaries, and clog the movements of government.. The people of the Province, are in general, however, contented with their new Sovereign; and the citizens would be more so if they were not incommoded by the troops; but town's people and rustics, all look back to the mild rule of the Ecclesiastical Princes, as to bright days almost forgotten in the changing calamities which have succeeded them. "Parbleu, alors nous étions bien," exclaimed a dirty désœuvré citizen, whose drawling Germanized French showed that he had belonged to the old régime. The liberal government of the Grand Duke, however, which has wisely left the Courts of Justice,
trial by jury, the Code Napoleon, and other French improvements on the footing he found them with slight modifications, gives pretty general satisfaction. The inhabitants of Mayence, and the whole Province, are of course chiefly Catholics; but though now subject to a Protestant Prince, they have nothing to complain of on the score of religion they are as well off as under the French. Their religion is no longer an aristocratical and splendid one- the days of luxurious Chapters are gone by — but they have the freest toleration and every privilege of Protestants-their pastors and schools are upon an equal footing. In short, the new Hessians on this side the Rhine are so well contented with their condition, that they have refused to sign the general Address to the Diet for the restoration of the States-asserting that they have every reason to hope for what is just from a Prince who has shown himself so liberally disposed towards them. This is the conduct, however, of green politicians, who have not yet learnt to appreciate security for the future as well as present comfort.