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No. 171.

REVIEW OF NEW BOOKS.

TIMBUCTOO & HOUSA.

SATURDAY, APRIL 29, 1820.

An Account of a Journey frow Fas to Timbuctoo, performed in or about the year 1787, A. C. By El Hage Abd

Shabeeny.

The person who communicates the following intelligence is a Muselman, and a native of Tetuan, whose father and mother are personally known to

PRICE 8d.

On the right

and left, the country is inhabited by roving Arabs at the distance of three or four days journey from the track of the travellers. At the end of the 20 days, there is a change on the face of the country, particular spots, called El Wah, being fertile, and the Sederah or wild myrtle, on which camels brouze, in abundance. There is also a small quantity of grass and about 8 or 10 inches below the sandy surface a yellow or reddish earth, in strata of four feet in depth, beneath water which springs out of a light sand about which again there is a brownish carth, and 5

Shabeeny was two years on his jour-of sand resembling the sea. ney from Tetuan to Mecca before he returned to Fas: He made some profit on his merchandize, which consisted of haicks, a light garment manufactured at Fas, red caps and slippers, cochineal, and saffron; the returns were fine India muslins for turbans, raw silk, musk, and gebalia, a fine perfume that resem bles black paste. He made a great profit by his traffic at Timbuctoo and Housa: but, he says, money gained name is Assced El Hage Abd Salam among the Negroes (being idolaters) has not the blessing of God on it, but Shabeeny. His account of himself is, vanishes away without benefit to the that at the age of fourteen he accompanied his father to Timbuctoo, from owner; while that acquired in a journey which town, after a residence of three to Mecca proves fortunate and becomes a permanent acquisition. On his reyears, he proceeded to Housa, and after turn with his father from Mecca they residing at the latter two years he re-settled at Tetuan, and often carried turned to Timbuctoo, where he resided seven years, and then came back to

Mr. Lucas the British consul.

Tetuan.

His

Being now in the twenty-seventh year of his age, he proceeded from Tetuan as a pilgrim and merchant, with the caravan for Egypt to Mecca and Medi

na, and on his return established himself as a merchant at Tetuan his native

place, whence he embarked on board a vessel bound for Hamburgh, in order to

cattle, poultry, &c. to Gibraltar.

He considers himself now as fixed at Tetuan, where he has a wife and children.

Such are the particulars related to us of a person who now comes forward to throw that important light upon African geography which we proceed to concentrate in the following pages. How exceedingly interesting it is we shall not stop to impress, but at once purchase linens and other merchandize that were requisite for his commerce. proceed to our task, with feelings of On his return from Hamburgh in an great pleasure and pride at being the first to lay so remarkable a communiEnglish vessel, he was captured and Ication before the public. The volume carried prisoner to Ostend by a ship whence it is derived will we presume manned by Englishmen, but under Rus-be published in a few days,...till then, sian colours, the captain of which pre- the Literary Gazette precedes the march tended that his imperial mistress was at war with all Muselmen. There he was to the much-sought and celebrated city of Timbuctoo. released by the good offices of the British consul*, Sir John Peters, and embarked once more in the same vessel, which by the same mediation was also released; but as the captain either, was or pretended to be afraid of a second capture, El Hage Abd Salam was sent ashore at Dover, and is now t, by the orders of government, to take his pas sage on board a king's ship that will sail in a few days.

In the following communication Mr.
Beaufoy proposed the questions, and
Mr. Lucas was the interpreter.

Confirmed by Sir John Peters.
In the year 1795.
VOL. IV.

or 6 feet lower down. This last tract it also requires 20 days to pass. The country, right and left, is occupied by independant Arabs governed by their own Sheiks.

"From Akka to Timbuctoo, a journey of 43 days, they meet with no trees, except the sederah, no rivers, towns, or huts. From Draha, which is a country abounding in camels, to Timbuctoo, the charge per camel is from 16 to 21 ducats". That so long a journey is performed at so small, an expence, is owing to the abundance of camels in Draha. The caravan generally contains from 300 to 400 men, of whom a great part prefer walking to the uncasy motion of the

camels."

We now come to the situation and state of Timbuctoo.

"On the east side of the city of Timbuc

too there is a large forest, in which are a great many elephants. The timber here is very large. The trees on the outside of the forest are remarkable for having two different colours; that side which is exposed to the morning sun is black, and the opposite side is yellow. The body of the tree has neither branches nor leaves, but the leaves, which are remarkably large, grow upon the top only: so that one of these trees appears, at a distance, like the mast and round top of a ship. Shabeeny has seen trees in England much taller than these: within the foThere are no trees resembling these in the rest the trees are smaller than on its skirts. Emperor of Marocco's dominions. They are of such a size that the largest cannot be girded by two men. They bear a kind of berry about the size of a walnut, in clusters consisting of from 10 to 20 berries. Shabeeny cannot say what is the extent of this forest, but it is very large. Close to the town of Timbuctoo, on the south, is a small Shabeeny's next stage was to Draha, a rivulet in which the inhabitants wash their province of the circuit of 4 or 5 days jour-clothes, and which is about two feet deep. ney at the foot of Atlas, and famous for dates, which he reached in six days. In three days from Draha, whose natives are almost black, the caravan,, now augmented to 300 or 400 camels, entered the desert or Sahara, which for the first 20 days is a p'ain

the place of general meeting for all the
From Fas, Shabeeny went to Tafilelt,
merchants and caravans going to Timbuctoo.
"The territory of Tafilelt contains no towns,
but abounds in fortresses with nud walls,
which the natives call El Kassar, and which
contain from three to four hundred families;
in these fortresses there is a public market
inhabitants purchase provisions, &c."
(in Arabic, Soke) every week, where the
inhabitants purchase provisions, &c."

* From Fas to Tafilelt, 20 days, for 41 ducats per camel., Tafilelt to Draha, 6 days, for 11. ducats. Draha to Timbuctoo, 43 days, for 181 ducats.69 days, for 35 ducats per camel load, which is about the rate of one farthing per quintal per mile.

66

It runs in the great forest on the east, and There are Inns or Caravanseras, where | Punishments are the bastinado, imprisondoes not communicate with the Nile, but is strangers lodge, and fondaes where they ment, and fine. If a native stabs another lost in the sands west of the town. Its wa- deposit their merchandize. These fondacs he must attend and support him till he is ter is brackish; that of the Nile is good and are called Woal by the Negroes, and in 1800 cured, and then suffer fine and bastinado; pleasant. The town of Timbuctoo is sur-many of them were rented from the king, if he dies, the offender is put to death. The rounded by a mud wall: the walls are built whose name was Woolo. In the houses capital inflictions are beheading, hanging, tabia-wise as in Barbary, viz. they make little furniture is seen, besides beds, mats, strangling, and bastinadoing to death. large wooden cases, which they fill with mud, and carpets covering the whole room, which Beheading is preferred; it is thus perand when that dries they remove the cases are about 14 feet by 10. formed the criminal sits down, and a perhigher up till they have finished the wall. "Timbuctoo is governed by a native son behind gives him a blow or push on the They never use stone or brick; they do not black, who has the title of sultan. He is back or shoulder, which makes him turn know how to make bricks. The wall is tributary to the sultan of Housa, and is cho- his head, and while his attention is thus emabout 12 feet high, and sufficiently strong to sen by the inhabitants of Timbuctoo, who ployed, the executioner strikes it off. Hangdefend the town against the wild Arabs who write to the king of Housa for his approba- ing and strangling are seldom used; and come frequently to demand money from tion. Upon the death of a sultan, his eldest bastinadoing to death, is only inflicted when them. It has three gates; one called Babson is most commonly chosen. The son of the crime is highly aggravated. Capital Sahara, or the gate of the desert, on the a concubine cannot inherit the throne; if the crimes are, murder, robbery with violence, north: opposite to this, on the other side king has no lawful son (son of his wife) at and stealing cattle. Small offences, as of the town, a second, called Bab Neel, or his decease, the people choose his successor stealing slaves and other articles, are punishthe gate of the Nile: the third gate leads to from among his relations. The sultan hased by the bastinado. The landed estates of the forest on the east, and is called Beb El only one lawful wife, but keeps many con- criminals are never forfeited q. The police Kibla. The gates are hung on very large cubines: the wife has a separate house for is so good, that merchants reside there in hinges, and when shut at night, are focked, herself, children, and slaves. He has no perfect safety." as in Barbary; and are farther secured by a particular establishment for his concubines, large prop of wood placed in the inside slo- but takes any girl he likes from among his pingly against them. There is a dry ditch, slaves. His wife has the principal manageor excavation, which circumscribes the town, ment of his house. The sultan's palace is (except at those places which are opposite built in a corner of the city, on the past; it the gates,) about 12 feet deep, and too wide occupies a large extent of ground within an for any man to leap it. The three gates of inclosure, which has a gate. Within this the town are shut every evening soon after square are many buildings; some for the sun-set: they are made of folding doors, of officers of state. The king often sits in the which there is only one pair. The doors gate to administer justice, and to converse are lined on the outside with untanned hides with his friends. There is a small garden of camels, and are so full of nails that no within it, furnishing a few flowers and vegehatchet can penetrate them; the front ap- tables for his table; there is also a well, pears like one piece of iron. from which the water is drawn by a wheel Many female slaves are musicians. The king has several sons, who are appointed to administer justice to the natives. Except the king's relations, there are no nobles nor any privileged class of men as in Barbary +: those of the blood-royal are much respected. The officers of state are distinguished by titles like those of Marocco; one that answers to an Alkaid, i. e. a captain of 700, of 500, or of 100 men; another like that of bashaw. The king, if he does not choose to marry one of his own relations, takes a wife from the family of the chiefs of his council; his daughters marry among the great men. The queen-dowager has generally an independent provision, but cannot marry. The concubines of a deceased king cannot marry, but are handsomely provided for by his successor."

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The town is once and a half the size of Tetuan, and contains, besides natives, about 10,000 || of the people of Fas and Marocco. The native inhabitants of the town of Timbuctoo may be computed at 40,000, exclusive of slaves and foreigners. Many of the merchants who visit Timbuctoo are so much attached to the place that they cannot leave it, but continue there for life. The natives are all blacks: almost every stranger marries a female of the town, who are so beautiful that travellers often fall in love with them at first sight."

The slaves are all foreign, and their livea entirely at the disposal of their master; but they are entitled to freedom on three grounds, viz. want of food, want of clothes, want of shoes. The succession to property and administration of justice are settled in a manner worthy of a civilized people. A man pays a certain sum to the father of his wife, who returns it double in jewels bestowed on his daughter; the girl is sent hoine, and a night-feast ensues. Rape is punished capitally. "Seduction and adultery are not cognisable by law. The law says, 'a woman's flesh is her own, she may do with it what she pleases.' Prostitutes are common. A man may marry his niece, but not his daughter." Circumcision is not

practised.

"Timbuctoo is the great emporium for all the country of the blacks, and even for Marocco and Alexandria.

"The principal articles of merchandize are tobacco, kameemas, beads of all colours for necklaces, and cowries, which are bought at Fas by the pound | Small Dutch looking-glasses, some of which are convex, set in gilt paper frames. They carry neither swords, muskets, nor knives, except such as are wanted in the caravan. At the entrance of the desert they buy rock-salt of the Arabs, who bring it to thein in loads ready packed, which they carry as an article of trade. In their caravan there were about The revenue accrues from land, mercan-500 camels, of which about 150 or 200 were tile duties on goods exposed to sale, and laden with salt.” 2 per cent. on produce. The troops are "The returns are made in gold-dust, paid by the king of Housa, and armed with slaves, ivory, and pepper; gold-dust is prepikes, swords, cutlasses, sabres, and mus-ferred and is brought to Timbuctoo from ↑ El Kibla signifies the tomb of Muhamed:kets. In war they amount to 12 or 15,000; Housa in small leather bags. Cowries and in most African towns there is a Kibla-gate, and even in peace the establishment receiv-gold-dust are the medium of traffic. The

The tabia walls are thus built: they put boards on each side of the wall supported by stakes driven in the ground, or attached to other stakes laid transversely across the wall; the intermediate space is then filled with sand and mud, and beat down with large wooden mallets, (as they beat the terrases) till it becomes hard and compact; the cases are left on for a day or two; they then take them off, and move them higher up, repeating this operation till the wall

be finished.

which faces Medina in Arabia.

That is about four miles in circumference.

Tetuan contains 16,000 inhabitants; but, ac

cording to this account, Timbuctoo contains
50,000, besides slaves, a population above three
times that of Tetuan: now, as the houses of
Timbuctoo are more spacious than those of Te-
tuan, it is to be apprehended that Shabeeny
has committed an error in describing the size
of Timbuctoo.
| Who

go there for the purposes of trade.

ing daily pay is 5000: they are all infantry.

A wheel similar to the Persian wheel, worked by a mule or an ass, having pots, which throw the water into a trough as they pass round, which trough discharges the water into the garden, and immerges the plants.

The privileged class of men in Barbary are the Fakeers; but no one in Barbary is noble but the king's relations, who are denominated shereefs.

shereefs and other merchants generally sell their goods to some of the principal native merchants, and immediately send off the slaves, taking their gold-dust with them into

But go to the next heir. Kameema is the Arabic word for the linen called plattilias. They are worth 50 Mexico dollars each, at Timbuctoo.

Called, in Amsterdam, Velt Spiegels, and in Timbuctoo, Murraik de juah.

They have common fowls, ostriches, and a bird larger than our blackbird; also storks, which latter are birds of passage, and arrive in the spring and disappear at the approach of winter; swallows, &c.

Of fish, they have many extremely good in the Nile; one of the shape and size of our salmon; the largest of these are about four feet long. They use lines and hooks brought from Barbary, and nets, like our casting nets, made by themselves. They strike large fish with spears and fish-gigs.

to thirty. Their shoes are red, and are brought from Marocco. Their arms and ancles are adorned with bracelets. The poor have them of brass; the rich, of gold. The rich ornament their heads with cowries. The poor have but one bracelet on the leg, and one on the arm; the rich, two. They also wear gold rings upon their fingers. They have no pearls or precious stones.* The women do not wear veils."

The king keeps 500 or 600 horses, and hunts the antelope, wild ass, ostrich, and aoudad, or wild cow of Africa, described by Jackson in his Marocco (chapter on Zoology). They have the finest greyhounds in the world, with which they pursue the antelope only, the ostrich being too fleet for any dog. All these animals of chace are gregarious. They are shot both by the musket and bow. There are no lions, tigers, or wild boars near Timbuctoo.

other countries. The merchants residing at | British miles) in the short period of five or Timbuctoo have agents or correspondents in six days. other countries; and are themselves agents in return. Timbuctoo is visited by merchants from all the neighbouring black countries. Some of its inhabitants are amazingly rich. The dress of common women has been often worth 1000 dollars. A principal source of their wealth is lending golddust and slaves at high interest to foreign merchants, which is repaid by goods from Marocco and other countries, to which the gold-dust and slaves are carried. They commonly trade in the public market, but often send to the merchant or go to his Of their dress, we learn that the " Sultan house. Cowries in the least damaged are wears a while turban of very fine muslin, bad coin, and go for less than those that are the ends of which are embroidered with gold, perfect. There are no particular market and brought to the front; this turban comes days; the public market for provisions is an from Bengal. He wears a loose white open place fifty feet square, and is surround-cotton shirt, with sleeves long and wide, ed by shops. The Arabs sit down on their open at the breast; unlike that of the Arabs, goods in the middle, till they have sold them. it reaches to the small of the leg; over this The games for play are chess and draughts, "The black natives are siniths, carpenters, a caftan of red woollen cloth, of the same at which the natives are very expert: they shoemakers, tailors, and masons, but not length; red is generally esteemed. The shirt have no cards; but tumblers, jugglers, venweavers. The Arabs in the neighbourhood (kumja) is made at Timbuctoo, but the caf- triloquists, whose voices seem to come from are weavers, and make carpets resembling tan comes from Fas, ready made; over the under their arm-pits; music which is pleasthose of Fas and of Mesurata, where they are caftan is worn a short cotton waistcoat, strip-ing and of more than twenty sorts; dances, called telisse; they are of wool, from their ed white, red, and blue; this comes from some of which are very indecent. own sheep, and camels' hair. The bags for Bengal, and is called juliba. When he is goods, and the tents, are of goats' and ca- seated, all the sleeves are turned up over mels' hair; there are no palmetto trees in the shoulder, so that his arms are bare, and that country." the air is admitted to his body.

The country is well cultivated except on the side of the desert; the produce consists of rice, beans, and a corn called Allila the Drah of Barbary; they have no wheat or barley. Dews are very heavy, and irrigation by canals cut from the Nile, and by wells, as in Egypt, is employed. They have violent thunder storms in summer, but no rains. The winter lasts two months, though the weather is cool from September to April. Rice is the principal food. They roast, boil, bake, and stew; and take three meals, breakfast, dinner, and supper, at 8 o'clock, 3, and soon after sunset. They drink only water or milk, and have no palin wine, or fermented liquor. When they want to be exhilarated after dinner, they provide a plant of an intoxicating quality called el hashisha, of which they take a handful before a draught of water.

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Of their animals goats are very large, as big as the calves in England, and very plentiful; sheep are also very large. Cattle are small; many are oxen. Milk of camels and goats is preferred to that of cows. Horses are small, and are principally fed upon camels' milk; they are of the greyhound shape, and will travel three days without rest. They have dromedaries which travel from Timbuctoo to Tafilelt (1200

:

El Hashisha. This is the African hemp plant: it is esteemed for the extraordinary and pleasing voluptuous vacuity of mind which it produces on those who smoke it unlike the intoxication from wine, a fascinating stupor pervades the mind, and the dreams are agreeable. The hief is the flower and seeds of the plant: it is a strong narcotic, so that those who use it cannot do without it. For a further description of this plant, see Jackson's Marocco, 2d or 3d edit, p. 131 & 132.

"Upon his turban, on the forehead, is a ball of silk, like a pear; one of the distinctions of royalty. He wears also a close red skull cap, like the Moors of Tetuan, and two sashes, one over each shoulder, such as the Moors wear round the waist; they are rather cords than sashes, and are very large; half a pound of silk is used in one of them. The subjects wear but one; they are either red, yellow, or blue, made at Fas. He wears, like his subjects, his sash round the waist, also made at Fas; of these there are two kinds, one of leather, with a gold buckle in front, like those of the soldiers in Barbary; the other of silk, like those of the Moorish merchants. He wears, (as do the subjects) breeches made in the Moorish fashion, of cotton in summer, made at Timbuctoo, and of woollen in winter, brought ready made from Fas. His shoes are distinguished by a piece of red leather, in front of the leg, about three inches wide, and eight long, embroidered with silk and gold. When he sits in his apartment, he wears a dagger, with a gold hilt, which hangs on his right side: when he goes out, his attendants carry his musket, bow, arrows, and lance.

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They measure time by days, weeks, lunar months and lunar years; yet few can ascertain their age. They have no temples, churches, or mosques,no regular worship nor sabbath. But once in three months they have a great festival, which lasts two or three days, sometimes a week, and is spent in eating and drinking. He does not know the cause; but thinks it, perhaps, a commemoration of the king's birth day; no work is done. They believe in a Supreme Being and another state of existence, and have saints and men whom they revere as holy. Some of them are sorcerers, and some ideots, as in Barbary and Turkey; and though physicians are numerous, they expect more effectual aid in sickness from the prayers of the saints, especially in the rheumatism. Music is employed to excite ecstasy in the saint, who, when in a state of inspiration, tells (on the authority of some departed saint, generally of Seedy Muhamed Seef,) what animal must be sacrificed for the recovery of the patient: a white cock, a red cock, a hen, an ostrich, an antelope, or a goat. The animal is then killed in the presence of the sick, and dressed; the blood, feathers, and bones are preserved in a shell and carried to some retired spot, where they are covered and marked as a sacrifice. No salt or seasoning is used in the meat, but incense is used previous to its preparation. The sick man eats "His subjects dress in the same manner, ex- as much as he can of the meat, and all precepting the distinctions of royalty; viz. the sent partake; the rice, or what else is dress pear, the sashes on the shoulders, and the ed with it, must be the produce of charita. embroidered leather on the shoes. The sul-ble contributions from others, not of the tana wears a caftan, open in front from top house or family; and every contributor prays to bottom, under this a slip of cotton like for the patient. the kings, an Indian shawl over the shoul- "The nails and palms of the hands are ders, which ties behind, and a silk handker-stained red with henna, cultivated there: chief about her head. Other women dress the Arabs tatoo their hands and arms, but in the same manner. They wear no drawers. not the people of Timbuctoo. These peoThe poorest women are always clothed. ple are real negroes; they have a slight mark They never show their bosom. The men on the face, sloping from the eye; the Fouand women wear ear-rings. The general expence of a woman's dress is from two ducats

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*This seems to differ from the statement that brides receive jewels on their marriage.-Ed,

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