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No. 323.

TOWNSEND'S

Monthly Selection

OF

PARISIAN COSTUMES.

POLITE LITERATURE, ETC.

Observations

ON

AUGUST, 1880.

LONDON AND PARISIAN FASHIONS.

From the experience of former years, we should say there are persons at the present time thinking what they shall bring out as a new fashion; but not knowing how Fashion progresses, they often bring out an absurdity that some people may adopt, but after a while it is found out that it is not the Fashion, and that the dress can only be worn a short time; had they followed the true laws of Fashion, it might have been worn two or three years, because true Fashion proceeds by slow de grees, not from one extreme to another-for instance, not from tight-fitting to loose-fitting garments, nor from harmonies of color to colors of striking contrast. The present taste is to show to the greatest advantage the beautiful forms of the Ladies; they have, therefore, gone back to the classic form; hence the additional seams, causing the garment to fit without creasing. The first idea of the Jersey was to do without seams, but this was wrong, it was going back in Fashion instead of advancing.

A little more than twelve months ago, we predicted the present taste for the Classic in dress; this taste has progressed, and will doubtless continue a long time, with all the beautiful harmony of colors in the materials. Last December we gave on Plate 1 the first three costumes trimmed with embroidery. This style has increased in favor ever since, and the most beautiful dresses seen in Paris are trimmed with embroidery. Jackets made entirely of brocade are increasing in favor, and larger quantities of brocade will be worn on dresses. Jackets will be worn longer, to take the appearance of the Jersey; when made shorter, they will be cut round at the bottom, instead of with points. In the widths of skirts at front there will be no change, but great variety in the style

The Comtesse de B

Vol. 28.

stated some time

ago in this Magazine, that the freedom of Fashion allowed a Lady to select a bonnet or hat that suited her face: some Ladies requiring a close, others an open bonnet or hat, which must always be suited to the character of the face, we say this, because in England there has lately been a tendency to adopt one form, which is a great disadvantage to Ladies. Fashion generally decides whether bonnets and hats are worn larger or smaller, but the infinity of changes that is always going on in the trimming and arrangement, constitutes the most important part of the style in vogue.

OUR PARIS LETTER.

Ma Chére Amie,

Faubourg St. Germain, Paris,
July 26th, 1880.

While all the monde élégant quit Paris for the seaside, the chateaux, and the country, to shun the too boisterous fête of the 14th of July, the inhabitants of the country come from 25 to 30 leagues round, to assist at this glorious féte: they come in troops, in families, by pleasure trains. All their little

business affairs have been left till this moment, and with the pleasure of seeing this grand feast, they can buy their stock of dresses, gloves, boots and shoes, &c., for the forthcoming season.

It was well worth coming to Paris for the fete this year; Paris was really superb. The Avenue des Champs Elysées, lighted up with its garlands of fire, had a magical effect. The Seine, too, was beautiful to contemplate, but what was most amusing to me was to look at all the spectators, at their nationalities, and their costumes, which were most varied both in form and color. On the whole, the costumes were pretty and bien réussis; the mixing of colors were tasty, and the general appearance elegant. Where is the time when a provincial coming to Paris could be recognised as such? Thanks to good fashion books and good patterns, the difference between the country and town lady is slight, and should both ladies' tastes be put in the balance, the country lady would have, I think, the advantage; for, on the whole, her taste is quieter and less assuming, bearing, if I may be allowed to say so, the stamp of the graceful nature which surrounds her.

I have not yet spoken to you of the new fantasie which, in a few weeks, has taken a most astonishing development. I mean the colored balayeuses. Black is very much worn, and to relieve it something bright was necessary. Nothing could look prettier than a colored balayeuse. For instance, a black dress is worn with a red, violet, or old gold hat or bonnet; well, according to the hat the plissé must be either red, violet, or old gold. These plissés are made of satin,

of the skirt, allowing it to show about 14 inches. On a light dress a darker shaded plissé is sewn between two plissés of white balayeuse; this richness of trimming and profusion of lace greatly improves a costume, and makes an elegant dress of a simple toilette.

Gloves have also undergone a slight alteration; they are worn long to the elbow, but instead of being plain kid up to the top, they are cut in three intervals of the width of 1 inch, and filled in by a lace insertion of 1 inch in width; this idea is very good, as it gives more width to the glove, and allows it to fit without any crease.

Hoods are quite the fashion now; they are worn on all sorts of mantles, jackets, ulsters, cache poussiére, and even over plain bodies. The hood is always lined with silk or surah, and may be made pointed or round. Over a black silk jacket trimmed with lace the hood should be lace also.

Another new fantasie is the cotton parasol, which is very cheap, and not very elegant, unless it is to be worn with a cotton dress, and both trimmed with handsome lace. Then both together form an elegant morning promenade Costume for the seaside or country.

COMTESSE DE B—.

THE FULL-SIZED PATTERNS.

N.B. The full-sized Patterns given in this Magazine are all cut for Ladies of medium height, and of proportionate figure: measuring 341⁄2 inches round the chest, and 24 waist, unless otherwise stated in the description.

All allowances necessary for the seams are already given to these Patterns, so that the same NEED NOT be allowed for when cutting out except in materials that require extra wide turnings in.

THE BRIGHTON CORSAGE. (376.) Our first pattern is the Corsage for the Brighton Costume, which is illustrated on the second figure of Plate 1 (No. 376). This pattern is for a lady of good figure, and consists of six pieces, viz.: Back with its plissé, back skirt, sidepiece, sidepiece of front, collar, and sleeve. The seam that joins the sidepiece of front to the front, is marked by one small cut near the armhole.

LITTLE RENEE'S COSTUME. (377.)

Our second pattern (all the pieces of which are marked by one hole) is the body part of the little Renee's Costume, which is shown on No. 377 of Plate 1. It is for a little girl of five years old, and consists of back, sidepiece, front, collar, and sleeve. Two kilted flounces, each about 4 inches deep at front, and a single flounce at back will have to be added to complete the full length of skirt. The sash is only a plain piece of silk or satin about five inches wide.

Description

Of the Plates of Costumes.

Full-sized patterns of all the Dresses, Casaques, Pelisses, &c. on these plates are supplied at the nominal prices of from 3d to 6d. each, for the accomodation of subscribers. For particulars see pages 10 and 11. The Number in brackets, preceding the description of each figure, is the number of the Costume in our list of full-sized patterns.

The Reverse views of all the Costumes on Plates 1 to 4 will be found on plate 6.

PLATE THE FIRST.

Fig. 1.-(375).-The Torquay Morning Sea

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Fig. 2.-(376).-The Brighton Toilette of pompadour satin ombré (washing material), trimmed with pipings of red; the loops may be of the same material as the pipings, or of satin ribbon. The cuirasse body is high to the neck, trimmed by a deep collar. The back forms a slight coat skirt, the opening of which is filled by a plissé of red. The petticoat is a long plissé, and the overskirt which fastens on it is elegantly pleated in front and draped behind. This toilette will take 10 yds. pompadour; 11⁄21⁄2 yds. red satinette; 3 yds. ribbon; 12 buttons.

Fig. 3.—(377).—Little Rénée Seaside Costume of blue marine, trimmed with light blue silk. This little princess dress is edged in front by two plissés, and at back by a flounce which starts from under the light blue sash. The dress is buttoned in front as far as the light blue sash, a cross band of dark blue is laid under the sash, and fastened at the sides by two buttons. This dress can be made in woollen or washing materials. It will take 3 yds. blue satinette; 1 yd. light blue silk; 12 buttons.

Fig. 4.—(378).—The Eglantine Blouse Costume of pink zephyr, trimmed with embroidery. The front and back are laid in pleats; the underskirt is a plissé; the back is caught together by a sash; the whole is trimmed with embroidery. Will require 4 yds zephyr; 5 yds. embroidery; 6 buttons.

PLATE THE SECOND.

Fig. 1. (379).-The Gladys Demi-saison Paletot of light cloth. Will require 2 yds. cloth, and 18 buttons.

Fig. 2.-(380).-The Churchhill Carriage Costume of buff brocade and buff silk. The tunic is cut en princesse front and back. It opens V shaped in front, and is trimmed by revers; the tunic is well looped up at back, and gracefully draped at sides under cerise bows; the whole is edged by fringe. The tablier is bouillonné down to the flounce, which is carried all round the train. Will require 53 yds. brocade; 5 yds. silk; 6 yds. ribbon; 5 yds fringe; 12 buttons.

Fig. 3.-(381).—The Amethyst Home Costume of lilac satinette, trimmed with spotted material. The front, which has a spotted gilet, is cut en princesse down to the first point, where it is gathered under a bow. The ribbon of this first bow is not cut, but forms another bow, which hides the gathers of the second pointed drapery. The back forms the usual jacket body, fulled in slightly under the two

FOR AUGUST, 1880.

buttons, and imitating a coat skirt; two pouff's are formed on the underskirt, which is trimmed in front by two plissés, and at back by one, the whole ornamented by spotted material. Will take 12 yds. satinette; 2 yds. spotted material; 3 yds. ribbon; 12 buttons.

PLATE THE THIRD.

Fig. 1.-(382).-The St. Germain Tea Gown of nut colored cachemire, trimmed with pink silk. It is a princesse robe opened in front on a petticoat of small flounces, and is edged by revers of pink silk. The back is elegantly looped up by a handsome sash of pink silk; the bottom is trimmed all round by a band of silk, and round the neck a Sarali-Bernhardt ruche of lace, with a coquille reaching to the waist. This elegant Tea Gown will require 11 yds. cachemire; 3 yds. silk.

Fig. 2.-(383).-The Primrose Ball Toilette of straw colored silk, trimmed with white satin. The cuirasse body opens in front en V, the space being filled by a plastron of bouillonné white satin, edged by old point de Venise. Four deep folded pleats are laid on the hips, and draped behind by an ornament which might be replaced by flowers or loops of ribbon. The tablier is of white satin brocade, edged by chenille fringe. The underskirt is bonillonné, of silk and white satin, and is edged by two plissés; the back of train, which is made en pout, is ornamented at the bottom like the front. Will require 14 yds. straw-colored silk; 3 yds. white satin; 1 yds. brocade; 2 yds. fringe; 7 yds. lace.

Fig. 3. — (384). The Carington Dinner Toilette of blue brocade, trimmed with blue satin. This elegant costume is cut en princesse both back and front; the front is pleated under a double bow, and a large revers of satin is sewn on the front and looped up under another recers which is fastened on the side; the whole is trimmed by plissés of white and blue satin. The petticoat is made of blue satin flounces and bouillonné. Revers of satin are laid across the shoulders, forming a round collar behind and narrowing down the front to the bow in a point. Will take 12 yds. brocade if long train is required, if demi-train 10 yds. will be sufficient; 12 yds. satin; 9 yds. white satin plisse.

PLATE THE FOURTH.

At the upper part of this Plate three elegant Bonnets are represented :

The Milly Bonnet of white chip trimmed with Princess of Wales red and grey feathers.

The Lilian Bonnet of grey chip trimmed with black satin ribbon and caroubier roses; the crown of the bonnet is trimmed with firelight beads.

The Lydia Bonnet of white chip trimmed with mauve surah, white feathers, and white

Fig. 1.-(385).-The Darea Promenade Costume of drab alpaca, trimmed with spotted foulard. The cuirasse body is trimmed with double collar of foulard, the front of skirt by double draperies, the upper one being gathered in the middle, while the second is only draped. The back is well looped up by bows; the whole being ornamented by foulard. The petticoat is trimmed by a plissé and a bouillonne. Will take 10 yds. alpaca; 2 yds. foulard; 18 buttons.

Fig. 2.-(386).-The Harewood Black Silk Costume, trimmed with fringe. The body, slightly opened in front, forms a coat-skirt behind; it is trimmed by a collar and a gathered fold of silk. The apron is laid in three folds, and is trimmed with fringe; the skirt is plissé and coquille; the back is well draped and falls very gracefully. This stylish costume will require 17 yds. black silk; 13 yds. of fringe; 12 buttons.

Fig. 3.—(387).—The Baden Travelling Costume of drab cloth, trimmed with shepherd's plaid. The jacket buttons in front, and at back the openings are filled in by plissés. In front the overskirt is open on a petticoat of double pleats, and the back is well draped on the petticoat. The whole is trimmed with shepherd's plaid. Will require: 10 yds. single width cloth; 3 yds. plaid.

PLATE THE FIFTH.

Fig. 1.-(388).-The Agnes Morning Dress of white nansouk, trimmed with embroidery and plissés. This costume can be made of any material, the most suitable being linen for summer and woollen for winter wear. It will require 13 yds. material; 12 buttons; 8 yds. embroidery.

Fig. 2.-(389).-Bathing Costume, for a Young Lady, of blue serge trimmed with white braid. Will take 5 yds. serge; 7 yds. wide braid; 14 yds. narrow; 12 buttons.

Fig. 3.-(390).- Bathing Costume for a Lady. This blouse costume is made back and front alike. From the shoulder-yoke start double pleats which are gathered at the waist by a band, and are then allowed to fall gracefully. Will require: 8 yds. serge; 4 yds. wide braid; 63 yds. narrow braid; 12 buttons.

Fig. 4. (391).- The Knollys Promenade Costume of brown cachemire, trimmed with pipings. The cuirasse is made with two points back and front. The front of skirt is arranged in two pointed draperies. The back is elegantly looped up and buttoned on the front draperies. The underskirt has a deep plissé. Will require: 11 yds. cachemire; 4 yds. ribbon; 12 buttons.

Fig. 5.-(392).-Visite Mantle of Shuddas, trimmed with passementerie and fringe. It is well draped behind, and ornamented by passementerie. The front forms a mantilla with square ends. It will require 3 yds. Shuddas; 6 yds, fringe; 6 yds. passementerie; and the

A CRUEL ALTERNATIVE.

IN THREE CHAPTERS.

By the Author of "Basil Raymond's Wife,"
Outworn," &c., &c.

CHAPTER 1.

AT DEWHIRST FARM.

66 Well

ND you will be kind to them Ellen. You will never let them suffer for my sin if you can help it ? "

"May God deal with me and mine, as I deal with your wife and child, Robert," was the solemn answer, spoken in the gloom of a prison-cell.

They looked into each other's eyes for one minute, this brother and sister, between whose lives how much more than the severing waves of ocean was to roll henceforth,-and heart spake unto heart in the solemn moment of farewell; heart answered unto heart in the promise given by Ellen Clitheroe to guard her brother's helpless wife and child.

She kept her word.

Far away in the green heart of Sunnyshire, among the apple trees of wide-spreading orchards, lay Dewhirst Farm, where widowed Ellen Clitheroe reigned mistress, with an only son to remind her of the bluff, hearty, young husband, who had met a sudden end in the hunting-field. To her quiet dwelling among the apple trees she brought her brother's wife and his year-old child. Here, in spite of tender care and unremitting attention, in spite of health-giving breezes which had shaken the perfume out of acres of heather before it rustled in the apple-boughs, in spite of country fare and country leisure, poor Alice slipped out of a life which had been very hard to her. She died in the strong tender arms of her husband's sister, with the breath of her little child's last kiss warm on her dying mouth, and left that young child as a legacy to Ellen Clitheroe, a solemn bequest of helplessness and innocence.

Mrs. Clitheroe accepted the charge as she accepted all things which came to her in the way of duty; but with an added tenderness, because the child's parents were dear to her. One was her own brother-her twin, with whom she had shared her mother's breast, her childish sports, her girlish memories; and the

other was her friend of friends, her schoolfellow and confidante, and now, in different senses, both " were not."

So Honor Gethin grew to girlhood among the apple trees of Dewhirst Farm, the darling of her aunt, the sometimes caressed, sometimes slighted companion of wayward Tom Clitheroe, her cousin.

As Tom Clitheroe grew to manhood, he showed a sad lack of the noble qualities which were so conspicuous in his mother. Often with a sigh Mrs. Clitheroe remarked the likeness he bore to his uncle Ned, his father's brother, who, as the simple villagers expressed it, had "gone to the dogs and died in the workus,” and she sadly acknowledged that the resemblance was not confined to outward appearance alone. Careless, rough, and uncourteous to those nearest to him, the young man had acquired a questionable popularity in the neighbouring village by fitful generosity, and an inclination to "stand treat" at the alehouse, which always appeals to the reasoning powers of those who affect such places of entertainment. But had this been all, the cloud on Mrs. Clitheroe's face might not have been so heavy, nor her sighs so frequent; but there were darker stories concerning the doings of this only son, tales of riot and profligacy; stories which were, alas! too true concerning the young man.

When Honor Gethin grew to the prime of her beautiful girlhood-and she was very fair -Mrs. Clitheroe hoped that her charms might prove a loadstone to reckless Tom, and serve to lure him into wisdom's ways of pleasantness, and draw his unruly feet betimes into paths of peace.

In one way her desire was gratified. Tom Clitheroe fell violently in love with his cousin, but Honor refused the offer he made her, without a moment's consideration. The comely face and manly proportions of her cousin, which were pleasing enough to more than one rustic beauty, had no attractions for the pale but lovely girl, whose tastes and pursuits were of a nature far above any conception of Tom Clitheroe's.

There was no hesitation in Honor's refusal; no faintest shadow of hope in her manner of dismissing her cousin's suit, and henceforth, because she was unattainable, she became the one thing of value to Tom Clitheroe, and he said savagely to himself that he "would win her for his wife, or know the reason why."

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