THE JERSEY COSTUME, To be made in the new Elastic Materials. No. 272 is the pattern of the new Jersey Costume. Our illustration shows that the front of Corsage is quite plain, and that it laces up the centre. The peculiarity of the corsage consists in its being made in a very elastic material with as few seams as possible. It is perfectly tight-fitting, and is considered very becoming to ladies of good figure. The Jersey will require 3 yards of 27 inch material, (the width of the new webbing being manufactured for the purpose.) We should recommend our fair readers, in making up this corsage, to use a Devere's Model Bust, of their own size, and to fit the garment exactly to the Bust: this plan will be found to give a very elegant appearance to the garment, as the corsage will retain the perfect shape of the Bust while yielding to any slight variation of figure in the wearer. The skirt should be made in thin cloth, serge, or homespun, and may be either black, or (which is preferable) of material the same color as the Jersey. The upper skirt is sometimes made of silk, and in that case the sleeves and collar should be of silk to correspond. Patterns of Corsage and draped upper skirt may be had price 6d. post free, from Louis Devere & Co. 1, Kelso Place, Kensington, London, W. NEW COMBINATION MORNING AND EVENING PETTICOATS. 270 BACK. This is the back view of the Mourning Toilette, on plate 5. 273. 274. 273 and 274 Together. 66 No. 273. Walking Petticoat, made perfectly plain in front. At the seams at the sides a band is placed on which are sewn 15 buttons: at the 7th button under the band, a ribbon is fastened which makes a coulisse," to be drawn back at will. Quantities required; 3 yds. calico; 3 yds. embroidery for flounce; 2 yds. of insertion; 15 buttons. The price of the pattern is 6d., post free. No. 274. Train to be added at will to the walking petticoat; it can be made of calico or of a non-crushing material called caoutchouc-muslin. The way to fasten it to the walking petticoat is by simply passing each button through the button-holes. Will take 3 yds. calico; 24 yds. of embroidery. The pattern may be had for 6d. post free. The next illustration shows the complete Evening Petticoat, when No. 273 is fastened to 274. February 1880. Je Monde Elégant Plete 7. No. 317. TOWNSEND'S Monthly Selection PARISIAN OF COSTUMES. POLITE LITERATURE, ETC. IMPORTANT NOTICE. FEBRUARY, 1880. IN consequence of many complaints as to delay and difficulty in procuring this Magazine, the Editors, at the request of a large number of their Subscribers, have now made arrangements for forwarding it by post, on the 28th of each month, on the following prepaid terms: THE "WORLD OF FASHION," post free in Great Britain, and other Countries in the Postal Union: For ONE YEAR, 11s. 6d.; SIX MONTHS, 5s. 10d.; THREE MONTHS, 3s. ; SINGLE COPIES, Twelve Stamps. All Subscriptions must be paid to L. DEVERE & Co., 1, Kelso Place, Kensington, London, W. POST OFFICE ORDERS payable to LOUIS DEVERE & Co., at Young Street, Kensington. CHEQUES crossed London and County Bank. MONEY can be forwarded safely in the Registered Envelopes, which are sold at all Post Offices, price 24d. each. Observations ON LONDON AND PARISIAN FASHIONS. The response to the improvements we introduced with last month's Magazine has more than realised our highest expectations, so that we have decided upon making further improvements; we are determined that this Magazine shall be the most useful and the most practical, and shall not contain a line of useless matter. Its costumes shall be the most carefully selec ted, and free from those eccentricities that to generally prevail in other Magazines, and which have never prevailed so much as at the present time. Many of our new Subscribers complain of these eccentricities, and say that other Magazines have become nearly useless to them, from this cause. The most striking feature of Fashion at the Vol. 28. shades of color in a dress seem to be passing away. Every dress is of one color, generally dark; but all colors are admissible. Many dresses have trimmings of brocade or Indian tissue; others again have none at all, or have a piping of a striped material to finish off the edge; while some, plainer still, have two rows of stitching to finish the edge. Of course, carriage costumes are more elaborate; a Louis XV. Jacket, made of rich brocade, with waistcoat of velvet, is very stylish; for a carriage, the costume cannot be too elaborate. For Evening Costumes there is a mixture of the elaborate and the simple. Black satin is much used, trimmed with rich brocade, otherwise the colors are simply pink, blue, &c. This season has not produced many new shades, or any great novelties in form. The Parisian Dressmakers complain they are not receiving their usual supply of orders from England; we expect the great success of our Magazine, with its excellent full-sized patterns, has something to do with this decline of orders. We need not go into what is being worn in Paris at present; the uncertain state of the French Government has brought everything nearly to a standstill. OUR PARIS LETTER. Ma Chére Amie, Paris. Some indications of very strange taste, and some very strange fashions, have seen the light during these past few months. It seems as if every one of eccentric taste was trying to introduce or invent something. If they were beautiful, all well and good; but these new things are not only ugly, but many of them are not even suited to our sex. As a reporter of Fashion, it is, however, my province to name to you all these novelties that appear in the horizon of La Mode. First comes the Ball Dress, with only a strap for a sleeve, a bracelet of the same material being fastened under the arm, and buckling over it, looking very much like a torn sleeve, and leaving the upper part of the arm, from the strap on the shoulder to the bracelet, perfectly bare. A few words also for some eccentric Ulsters that are being shown to Ladies. The Ulster is a very comfortable garment, because of its great use, but let it remain the original style of Ulster, with a good against is a hood made very much like a jockey's cap, and when a lady is so coiffée, she looks no more a woman you naturally look for a cigar or a whip. A line or two for the Hats: Some hats are being made of the fashionable rough furs, coming over the forehead, and hanging very low on the neck, a double cord fastened on each side, and curving in front, is all their trimming. They remind me of the French Sapeur. To the gentle and sweet woman, only elegant and tasty attire is suited. If the expression of the face be sweet and calm, how can it harmonise with such garments? If the face be slightly masculine, let the lady wear all that is womanly, all that can soften her looks, or embellish her features. Cultivate your taste, cultivate your children's taste. A woman with a refined taste always has a refined nature. To love the beautiful you must appreciate it, consequently you must have a beautiful mind. To grow a new kind of rose, a gardener bestows a great deal of care and thought; in like manner thought and study are required to become and always to remain an elegant woman. COMTESSE DE B THE FULL-SIZED PATTERNS. GERTRUDE CORSAGE REDINGOTE. (259). Our first pattern is the Corsage of the Gertrude Costume, which is shown on fig. 3 of our First Plate. It is double-breasted, buttoning up to the neck, with a rather wide collar turned down all round. The pattern consists of back, sidepiece, front, collar, skirt, and pocket. On the front we have marked the middle of front by a pricked line, with a notch at top and bottom. The notch in the waist seam of skirt corresponds to the notch in the waist seam of forepart at the bottom of the pricked line. The patterns of pleated Tunique and Demi-train underskirt are supplied to Subscribers at 6d. each, post free. See our separate Pattern List. THE BERYL POINTED CORSAGE FOR A BALL DRESS. (263). Our second pattern (all the pieces of which are marked by one hole) is the Pointed Corsage for the pink Ball Dress represented on Plate 3, No. 263. This elegant corsage consists of four pieces, viz. :back, sidepiece, front, and sleeve. The pattern of the skirt may be obtained from the Editors, price 6d., post free. See the Pattern List on our extra page. Description Of the Plates of Costumes. Full-sized patterns of all the Dresses, Casaques, Pelisses, &c., on these plates are supplied at the nominal price of 6d. each, for the accommodation of subscribers. For particulars see our extra page. The number in brackets, preceeding the description of each figure, is the number of the Costume in our list of full-sized patterns. The Reverse views of all the Costumes on these four Plates will be found on plate 6. PLATE THE FIRST. Fig. 1.-(257).—The Patti Promenade Costume of brown cachemire de l'Inde, trimmed with brocade. The collar, Redingote, skirt, cuffs, and trimming of overskirt are of brocade. The overskirt is slightly draped in front, behind it forms a pouff and end, which falls on the plissé petticoat. Will take 6 yds. cachemire de l'Inde; 3 yds. brocade; 12 buttons; 24 yds. ribbon. Fig. 2.(258). Carriage Costume. The jacket is made of cachemire tissu, and cut Redingote style, with revers ornamented by large buttons, and a gilet of ruby velvet and Strass buttons. The dress is of green silk trimmed in front by tuyautés and bouillonés. The draperies which start from the waist, are laid in deep folds, and end under the train at back. The jacket will take 3 yds. cachemire tissu; yd. velvet; 14 large buttons; 18 Strass buttons. The dress will take 11 yds. of silk without the body. Fig. 3.-(259). The Gertrude Morning Promenade, or Travelling Costume, made of grey cloth, trimmed with cuffs, collar, and pockets of velours frappé. The jacket is Redingote style; the upper skirt is looped up in front by four large pleats, and behind by two poufs and pointed ends fastened under a bow. Quantities required: 5 yds. 54 inch cloth; 24 buttons; 11 yds. velours frappé. We give the full-sized Pattern of the Gertrude Corsage Redingote. PLATE THE SECOND. Fig. 1.—(260).—The Percy Reception Toilette of green cachemire, trimmed with Indian tissue. The body is pointed front and back, and trimmed all round by a band of Indian tissu. The front is a plissé bouillonné, edged by a piping of Indian tissue. The overskirt is gathered in front by a ribbon, and looped up twice behind over a skirt trimmed with four plissés in front and two behind. Quantities required: 7 yds. cachemire; 24 yds. Indian tissue. Fig. 2.-(261).-The Heloise Visite Mantle, made of shuddas, trimmed with passementerie, bugles, and fringe. Will take: 5 yds. 47 inch shuddas; 7 yds. fringe; 5 yds. passementerie; 12 buttons; 3 tassels; and trimming up the back. Fig. 3.-(262).-The Rantzau Visiting Costume of brown silk and brocade. The body is trimmed by collar, revers, and pockets of brocade. The overskirt, which is made on an underskirt of lining, is twice gathered in front by a ribbon being passed between the material and the lining, and drawn through. If the silk be not lined, a silk tape is sewn on the silk, and another tape is passed through, after having been first secured on the underskirt; by this means the gathers can be tightened ad libitum. The back forms two pouffs, and the end falls on the flounce of the skirt. Quantities required: 12 yds. silk; 14 yds. brocade; 12 buttons. PLATE THE THIRD. Fig. 1.-(263).-The Beryl Ball Toilette, of pink and white mousseline de laine, for a young lady. It could also be made of pink faille and satin, or of pink satin and white crêpe de Chine. The body is pointed back and front; the over FOR FEBRUARY, 1880. skirt is slightly gathered up in front under the point of body, then draped on both sides under a bunch of roses. The back makes a pouff and train. Quantities required: 43 yds. pink mousseline de l'Inde; 14 yds. white mousseline de l'Inde; 6 yds. lace. Fig. 2. (264). The Dolores Dinner or Reception Toilette of black satin, trimmed with brocade and gimp. The body is made with two points back and front, and a pointed gilet and revers, which end on the shoulders. All the brocade is edged by a new kind of gimp called “perles de feu;" their effect is very much like the flickering lights of a fire. It is original, and enhances the toilette wonderfully. The same trimming is also placed around the brim of the hat (see hat on fig. 2, No. 258). The point of body back and front is trimmed by numerous loops of ribbon. The skirt is trimmed by three long plissés in front; the overskirt forms elegant draperies on each side, gathered up under a cluster of bright roses. The same colored roses are worn at the left side, and a few satin bows at the right; the body is fastened at the side. Will require 20 yds. satin, or 16 yds. silk; 4 yds. brocade; 10 yds. gimp; 7 yds. ribbon. Fig. 3.-(265).-The Ulrica Toilette for the concert, theatre, or a quiet dinner. It is made of light blue silk brocade, trimmed with small flounces of Malines lace. The dress is made in princesse form; the front and side pieces are cut slightly too long, so as to allow for the draperies. It is opened in front upon plastrons of lace edged by satin bands. To make the dress more elegant, flowers may be added on the left shoulder, on the right side of waist, and on the left satin bow, which drapes the dress. Will take 12 yds. brocade; 8 yds. lace; 12 yds. satin ribbon. PLATE THE FOURTH. Fig. 1.-(266). The Orleans Visiting Cos tume of black Shuddas or cloth. The entire costume has been made by a Tailor. The trimming consists of double rows of machine stitching, and it can be easily made at home by the help of our patterns. The dress can be made in either two or three pieces. In the first case, the overskirt is fastened on the petticoat, and the plissé at back is only 12 inches high; in the second, the plissé forms a separate petticoat, and the overskirt is sewn on a belt. If advice is sought, we should say make your dresses invariably on silk or lining for two reasonsfirst, the dress falls better, and does not get out of folds; second, much less material is required, consequently the expense of the costume is considerably lessened. The quantities required will be 6 yds 47 inch shuddas; 30 buttons. Fig. 2. (267).--The Leitrim Afternoon Tea Gown of blue cachemire d'Ecosse, with a plastron of cachemire tissue, edged by a thick cord of the same color. The front of corsage is open, and trimmed by double rows of frills; these full 3 out, besides the addition of a false hem. Caps to wear with these dresses are given on our fifth plate (see description). Will require 6 yds. cachemire d'Ecosse 47 inches wide; 1 yds. cachemire tissue. Fig. 3. (268).-The Brenda Promenade Costume of brown cheviot, trimmed with bias pipings of Pekin. The jacket is cut in Redingote style. The front of dress, which is slightly bouillonné, is trimmed by three bows and a plissé; the back is bouffant. Will take 5 yds. cheviot; 12 buttons; 1 yd. Pekin. PLATE THE FIFTH. No. 1.-BONNET of Black Velvet, having the crown encircled with bows of black velvet and rose velvet. At left side is a star-shaped bow of satin ribbon with narrow black stripes across it: strings of the same ribbon. In front a pink ostrich feather starts from the bow above-named. Nos. 2 & 2A, and Nos. 7 & 7A, are both CAPS made with handkerchiefs measuring 13 inches square. No. 2 handkerchief has the point cut off, and filled up by lace. These elegant coiffures can be made at a minutes notice, and unmade in less time. a b d You proceed as follows:--Stretch the handkerchief on the table, so as to have two points before you, point a is for the front; then with each hand you take c and d, and pleat the cap, as shown on Plate 7: 2 or 3 stitches will do to secure these pleats together; a flower or loops of ribbon, should be fastened on a safety pin, to hide the gathering. You next place the flower you mean to wear, in your hair, by two hair-pins. Then taking the cap by the point a, you place it on your hair over the forehead, and secure it there by a gold pin, or a butterfly, or any fancy jewel. The lace of the handkerchief will naturally fall a little over the flower, and look quite coquettish; you can secure the coiffure at back by two gold pins. Any kind of handkerchief trimmed with lace will do: for morning these coiffures are made of surah or Indian muslin of various shades. Every day you can vary the style, by changing the position of the flowers. No. 3.-(269).-GILET of mauve silk, trimmed with a Medicis collar, and a fichu of surah, trimmed with lace. The gilet forms a round collar behind, gradually narrowing so as only to be seen as a transparent through the lace. Quantities required: yd. mauve silkyd. surah; 2 yds. lace; 1 yd. ribbon; 6 buttons. No. 4. BONNET of black velvet, lined by gathered white silk, and trimmed by white ostrich feathers. At front is a small bunch of blue flowers. No. 5.-(270).-MOURNING TOILETTE of Paramatta and Albert crépe. The dress is trimmed by bands of crépe; the back is bouffant. The jacket is opened behind, and trimmed by a deep band of crépe: cuffs and revers to match. Quantities required: 6 yds. Paramatta double width; 24 yds. crépe; 12 buttons. No. 6.-BONNET of Brown Silk, with puffed crown of velvet of the same color at left side. At front is a frill of white lace, which is carried round to the right side, and the bonnet is also trimmed by two maizecolored feathers; strings of maize ribbon. No. 8.-(271).-EVENING GILET, forming a square Sailor's collar behind, and trimmed all round by a coquille of lace. It is made of ruby satin, with an inuer gilet of ivory brocade: the lace is ivory color. The roses are of the delicate tiut of maiden's blush. If a coiffure is worn, it ought to match the gilet only, or else only the dress: it may also be of black Chantilly lace. Quantities required: 1 yd. satin; yd. |