on her mother's breast, a year or two after.

Colemarsh Mill is empty, as I have said. It passed with the rest of Gilbert Armstrong's property to the Crown, and no one has been adventurous enough to commence business again in such an ill-omened spot.

The swift Cole still glides by the empty mill and the silent wheel, but I think the shadow of Gilbert Armstrong's passion and his crime will brood over the old place while one stone is left upon another.

(Conclusion.)

Reviews.

THE HOUSE SURGEON, or THE DOCTOR AT HOME. 10th Edition, 6d. Accident Insurance Co. (Limited.)

This useful little volume, the value of which is proved by its having reached a tenth edition, should be in every home. The work of a practical man, the late Mr. Alfred Smee, Surgeon to the Bank of England, and other institutions, the contents are in themselves eminently practical, and cannot fail to prove of service to a careful reader. In these times of hurry and bustle, accidents are constantly occur. ring around us, and it is a great boon to have at hand such a guide as "THE HOUSE SURGEON to consult in cases of emergency. The subjects are those upon which such hints are oftenest needed, and are expressed with most praiseworthy clearness, being accompanied with various illustrations.

THE WANZER PLAITING MACHINE. This useful and elegant adjunct to dressmaking which was introduced by the Wanzer Sewing Machine Co., has met with universal approval. We have recommended it to a number of our Subscribers, and have received in reply not a few letters testifying to its useful completeness. It affords us great pleasure to give a personal testimony to the merits of the Machine, which is as simple to work as it is highly finished in mechanism, and now that pleating is so universally worn, no dressmaker or private family should be without one of Wanzer's Pleating Machines.-ED.

REAL GOOD BREEDING.-If every individual member of society were as well-bred at heart and in mind as in outward action, there would be an end to the outcry about the falseness of the fashionable world. Polite phrases of the most stereotyped kind are sometimes heartfelt and genuine and the desire to make your neighbours or guests happy or comfortable should be felt strongly, and the expression of that desire is assuredly harmless. The person who simply shams the kind feeling, and expresses the contrary in your absence, is certainly not well-bred; and there is no doubt that the truest courtesy is that of the heart, and innate. The sort of chivalrous feeling for the weak that is handed down to us from the earliest periods is the mainspring of much of what is called good breeding.

The "SOCIAL SKETCHES" by H. S., will be continued in our July Number.

IN THE FURNACE.

Thou passest through the fire, my heart,
God's furnace of refining grief;
The cruel flames around thee leap,
They rise and fall, they curl and creep,
Pray God their work be brief.

The fire is fierce and hot, my heart;
It hungers for thine hoarded gold,
It thirsts to drink thy bitter tears,
It strives to clutch the hopes and fears
Thy inmost life doth hold.

Fear not to feed the flame, my heart,
With all thy gold stored up so long;
The fire of woe doth not destroy,
But purifies from all alloy,

And perfect makes and strong.

Thou art not there alone, my heart,
Good angels go before, behind;
For cheer and counselling, whose wings
Do make with holy winnowings

A moist and whistling wind.
And One is sitting near, my heart,

For ever bending down to see
Thy molten gold, thy humbled will,
Thy strength to suffer, lying still,
Whose look doth comfort thee.

He waits with patience, oh! my heart,
He bore himself that crucial heat;
He stills thy trembling, makes thee strong,
Decides thy trial short or long,

And counts thine every beat.

And when He sees on thee, my heart,
His perfect image, mirrored plain

(It may be in a little while),
Himself shall draw thee with a smile,
From out the fires of pain.

H.S.

THE FULL-SIZED PATTERNS.

The Patterns are all suited for Ladies of medium height and of proportionate figure: measuring 344 inches round the chest and 24 waist, unless otherwise stated in the description. All allowances necessary for seams, are already given to these Patterns.

The greatest care is always taken by the binders to ensure the whole of the pieces composing each pattern being folded up in it. If at any time, through accident, our subscribers should find any pieces missing, the Editor will be happy to supply the deficiency post free, during one month after publication, on receipt of a letter or post card addressed to him at 1, Kelso Place, Kensington, London, W.

BERNHARDT corsage.

Our first pattern is the BERNHARDT CORSAGE A GILET as illustrated on the first figure of plate 2 and by the back view on plate 2a. This pattern is for a lady of good figure, measuring 344 inches round the chest. It consists of five pieces :-Gilet, front, sidepiece, back, and sleeve. The Panier and under skirt necessary to complete this pattern may be ob tained by enclosing 6 stamps to the Editors, 1, Kelso Place, Kensington, London, W.

CELESTINE GILET.

Our second pattern, which is marked by one round hole, is the CELESTINE GILET, to be worn for evening or the theatre over another dress. The shape and manner of trimming are shown by No. 108 of our fifth plate. It may be made in muslin, silk, lace, or in "pekin as shown on plate 5, or may be formed of bands of insertion. If made of a striped material or insertion, there must be a seam on the shoulder as shown by the pricked line. By making this shoulder seam, the stripes can be arranged to run straight down the middle of front, and the middle of back.

No. 37A.-SHORT PRINCESS FROCK.

No. 36A.-PETTICOAT.

Our present plate contains carefully-engraved representations of all the principal articles of Baby. Linen. Long clothes are shown on Nos. 33A, 35A, and 38A to 43A.

The first short Coating is shown on Nos. 34A, 36A, and 37A. All these articles are, according to their kind to be made of Lawn, Cambric, piqué, or Flannel, and trimmed with lace and embroidery. The Baby's basket is covered in white muslin, and trimmed with pale blue or pink silk.

N.B.-Full-sized patterns of this Baby Linen can be obtained at 2s. the set of 11, or separate patterns at 6d. each, post free, from Messrs. Louis Devere & Co., 1, Kelso Place, Kensington, London, W.

No. 38A.-LONG PETTICOAT, CAMBRIC OR FLANNEL.

INSTRUCTIONS

HOW TO TAKE THE MEASURES.

Fig. 1

The way to take the measures when a Lady wishes to send for a body pattern of the size suited to her is as follows :-First, with an ordinary inch tape, take the exact Chest measure all round the body at the most prominent part of the chest, marked 1 on the diagram, Fig. 1: then take the Waist measure marked 2: then measure the exact Length of Back from the neck to the Waist, marked 3 on the diagram. Write all these measures down, and to ensure accuracy, measure them again, and compare with the writing.

HOW TO

CHANGE THE SIZE OF OUR PATTERNS.

If a Lady possesses a good fitting body pattern, she can easily alter, to her own size, any of "DEVERE'S PARIS MODEL PATTERNS," which are all cut for 344 inches Chest measure, 24 inches Waist measure, and 14 inches Length of Waist. If a lady has not a body pattern of her own size, she can select one from Devere's Series of Patterns, which are cut for Chest measures ranging from 314 to 42; that is to say, from the most petite lady, to the tall lady of fine figure. Any size will be sent post free, for 6 stamps. If however the lady is only a size larger or smaller than 34 Chest, viz:has a Chest measure of 36 or 33, then she can alter the size of the pattern when cutting out, by the instructions given in the following diagrams:

.........................

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

TO ENLARGE A PATTERN FROM 34 INCHES CHEST MEASURE TO 36 INCHES. FIG. 2.

Add to the front edge of an inch, the same at the seam under the arm, and down the middle of back; these additions are indicated by the shaded parts. At the bottom of armhole, hollow out of an inch, indicated by the black parts.

TO DECREASE A PATTERN FROM 34 INCHES CHEST MEASURE TO 33 INCHES. FIG. 3.

Narrow the front edge of an inch, and take off the same under the arm and at the middle of back, as shown by the black parts of the pattern. At the bottom of armhole, add the of an inch indicated by the shaded portions.

THE WAY TO CUT OUT.

The best plan is to lay all the pieces composing the pattern on the material at the same time, so as to be able to judge of the most economical way of cutting out. The larger pieces should be placed on first, and the smaller pieces at the sides of them. The trimmings (if any) must not be forgotten.

The straight thread of the stuff

Fig. 4. The direction in which the various pieces are laid on the material has more to do with the fit of a pattern than is generally supposed. In all close-fitting garments, the side pieces and the backs should all have the waist line in an exact line with the straight weft or woof thread of the material: this will bring the side pieces and the backs on the right way of the stuff, and the side pieces will not draw or crease as they would do if they were cut in the least degree on the biais. The fronts must be laid lengthwise on the material and be perfectly straight. It is best to place the front edge at the edge of the material, and to allow enough for the turning in. For double breasted garments the middle of front must lay exactly on the warp, or lengthwise thread of the material. The same rules must be observed for all Princesse Robes and for Polonaises.

In cutting out striped materials, there should be a perfect stripe down the middle of the front, and also down the middle of back when the back is made without a seam. Especial care must be taken that the stripes in the sidepieces and in the back, may exactly correspond.

In sleeves, the part above the elbow must be the straight way of the material.

When any part of a dress, such as the trimmings, &c. has to be cut on the biais, care must be taken that it is exactly on the biais, or it will drag and hang badly when made up.

In a gored skirt, the fronts of the gored pieces must always be on the straight thread; the sides which are towards the back being sloped. If pos sible, avoid having any seam down the middle of the back of a skirt. The allowance for the hem at the bottom must not be forgotten.

In figured or brocaded materials, all the parts of the pattern must be cut the same way of the stuff; that is, with the pattern running in the same direction. It is the same in velvets and napped matrials, all the pieces must be cut so that the pile or nap runs the same way.

Always place all the pieces of the pattern on the material, and make whatever calculations are necessary, before commencing to cut out the stuff.

DEVERE'S SERIES OF

PATTERNS FOR DRESSMAKERS AND FAMILIES. This set of patterns is divided into two parts. The first series has seven brown-paper patterns, for Children and Young Ladies, and is sold for 2s. 6d. post free. The second series has eight brown-paper patterns for Ladies from the smallest to the largest sizes, and is sold for 3s. post free. The sizes of the first Series are:-Chest 19 inches, age 2.-Chest 201, age 4.-Chest 22, age 6.-Chest 24, age 8.-Chest 27, age 11 to 12.-Chest 281, age 12 to 13.Chest 30, age 14 to 15.

The sizes of the second Series are:-Small sizes, Chest 31 and Chest $3. Medium sizes, Chest 344 and Chest 36. Large sizes, Chest measures 371, 394, 41, and 42 inches.

Both these series of patterns are principally intended for Dressmakers If Ladies require any of the above sizes to suit themselves or their families they can be supplied at 6d. each pattern.

THE USE OF A

BUST TO LADIES AND DRESSMAKERS, Devere's Model Bust for the use of dressmakers, and private families will be found a useful adjunct to the dressmakers' art: it is accurately mould ed in papier maché, from the most perfect figures, and is covered with stout twilled calico, thus affording a firm yet flexible surface for the various purposes of trying-on garments. It is mounted on a handsome stand, and by means of the screw shown on the engraving, can be raised or lowered in height according to requirement. Another great advantage is the facility with which it turns round on the pivot, thus enabling the worker to fit or trim the back or front of a dress without moving from her position. French dressmakers find these Busts invaluable in their business, from the ease they afford for the arrangement of the elegant but complicated styles of trimmings so much in vogue at the present time.

For private families, where much of the dressmak ing is done at home, a Devere's Model Bust would b found most useful, as with its use, and the aid of om Paris Model Patterns, the most complicated costum can be reproduced with the greatest ease; and on bust would serve for all members of the same famil who are not smaller in size than the bust.

It will also be found very useful in making up lae collars, fichús, &c., &c. In fact any lady once po sessing this desirable article will find countless wa of making it useful, and will wonder how she contrived to do so long without it.

We have arranged to supply these busts for th following sizes of chest measure:-314, 33, 34, 3 37 394, 41, 42 and 44 inches, and to deliver the carefully packed in a crate, and carriage free withi 3 miles of Charing Cross, or at any London Railwa terminus, on receipt of P. O. O. for 26s.

HOW TO ORDER A BUST AND ADAPT IT TO THE FIGURE When ordering a Bust it is better to send a calico body made to fit, or old dress body that fits well: the three measures shown on fig. 1 should be sent, and it should be stated whether the lady is of proportionate figur or stoops, or is very erect. A Bust suited to the lady will then be careful selected from our stock, and forwarded with the body.

N. B. It must be understood that it is always necessary to select a B slightly smaller than the lady's dress body, because the bust cannot und any circumstances be made smaller, while it is very easy to pad it up to required size.

If the Bust is too small at the waist, a belt of wadding of the requir thickness is to be fastened round the waist, and the same thing can be do as regards the Chest, the shoulders, &c.: if the lady is stooping or round she dered, two thickness of flannel placed on the upper part of back will bri the Bust to the proper shape; these paddings are simply pinned on the B which may thus be made to serve for persons of different figures and site The best way of enclosing the dress body and Post Office Order, is tot one of the large Registered letter envelopes measuring 10 inches by 7 inch which are sold at all Post Offices, price 3d. This will be sufficiently larg contain the Letter, P. O. Order, and Body, without any trouble in packi the postage will be about 2d. or 3d. according to the thickness of the bo

N. B. The various articles named above can be obtained only Messrs. Louis Devere & Co., 1, Kelso Place, Kensington, London, W. ders to be sent by letter, enclosing stamps or P. O. Örder, for the amou