8 Plate 5 These Bonnets & Huts can be had from Madame Dufourmantelle 30. Boulevard des Italiens Pares Modista to Her Majesty the Queen and to HRH the Puncess of Wales TOWNSEND'S Monthly Selection OF PARISIAN COSTUMES. A JOURNAL OF FASHION, LITERATURE, MUSIC, THE OPERA, AND THE THEATRES. No. 309 Observations JUNE, 1879. ON LONDON AND PARISIAN FASHIONS. It is the duty of every writer on Fashion, to be influenced above all things by a love of truth and by a desire for Progress; everything that militates against them ought to meet with his greatest reprobation. It has lately become a practice with many French Publishers of Fashions to send over to England all their unsold or unsuccessful fashion plates and wood-cuts, which have in some instances been issued six, or even twelve months before in Paris; of course they are always sold at half-price. An English lady purchases them, supposing them to be the latest fashions, has a dress made up, and afterwards finds that the fashions were old, never having expected the fraud she was deceived by, and which we have felt it our duty to expose. Some French publishers are at present engaged in bringing out fashions that call to mind the French Revolution of 1793. They commenced with the Directoire Hat, and are adapting all the ideas of that time to the various articles of modern costume, and thus making ladies' attire more to resemble that of men. This is a degeneracy that always takes place when a Nation ceases to be directed in its taste by its most refined and cultivated minds. Notwithstanding all these contretemps, Fashion still progresses, and we have given in this month's number the latest and newest ideas. Some of our costumes are a little more elaborate than usual; they are intended for Flower Shows, Garden Parties, and for the Races. We named last month that the dress body with pointed waist was being again introduced; this necessitates a fulness of drapery at the waist, which sometimes assumes the "panier" form. Gilets are as much worn as ever. Revers have not entered so much into our costumes for this month. Short sleeves are progressing in favor, but, of course, they are far from being universal. We stated last month we should give in this month's number a modern adaptation of the VOL. 27. enabled to judge for themselves how far it is suited to modern requirements. Time may introduce new ideas; the making up is very simple, and it can be worn over any princesse robe. In Mantles there is not much change from those we have given lately-short jackets seem to be coming into favor. People generally expect a hot summer, as this generally succeeds a severe winter. Mantles can be purchased now almost cheaper than they can be made at home. We shall be prepared to give some very handsome ones at the beginning of Autumn. We have named in our April and May numbers the materials and colors most fashionable. The striped Pekin style continues in great favor. Morning Dresses are chiefly made of two materials and of two colors; the same may be said of Evening Costumes. In Bonnets there is no novelty except those we have introduced. The French seem rather unwilling to give up the use of birds or parts of birds. We have this month given our Bonnet plate uncolored at the request of a large number of our subscribers, who say that when they have to make a bonnet to match the dress, the colors on plate 5 are a hindrance to them instead of an assistance. OUR PARIS LETTER. Ma Chère Amie, Paris. I think my letter of this month will amuse you. I have been to a Republican re-union, and so can say a word or two about their manners and appearance: fortunately for contrast I had been at one given by our own party some days before. There I saw the descendants of that noble race that were guillotined at our first Revolution; at the other I saw the people that had usurped their places. In the first place there was that noble breeding, that amiability and politeness that has made the French Aristocracy famous throughout the civilised world; in the second I saw the opposite of these qualities; a vulgarity of manners, a pretentiousness that is only seen in people who have been suddenly raised above their station. Their toilettes were neither tasty nor new, but I think I had better be silent on this subject. I shall however, describe a toilette or two that I saw in the re-union of our friends. The Comtesse Violette appeared as usual the most elegant, and displayed her usual taste; she wore a princesse dress of white mousseline de laine, edged by a thick chicorée Bretonne. The upper skirt was of lace edged by a silk ruching, starting from the shoulder (where it was fastened by diamond stars) and forming a Watteau pleat behind; the lace was draped slightly on the hips, and about eighteen inches from the waist it was gathered behind by numerous loops of Pompadour ribbon; the lace was then gracefully draped on the train of the princesse robe. In front the dress was cut square, trimmed with plissés of lace, Pompadour buttons, and button-holes, which were the only ornaments of the front. This rich simplicity enhanced the beauty of the fair wearer. Now to please your sister, and in answer to her reasonable letter, I will say a few words for her. You are quite right, my dear, to think that were we to follow fashion very closely, our pin-money would never suffice. You say that we French Ladies are always more elegantly dressed than you are, and you ask me our secret. It is no secret at all. In England you generally buy very expensive dresses, you have many at a time, and you have them for many years. We, on the contrary, have few dresses at a time, and of less handsome materials, but always very stylishly made up. Now, if we have old dresses, we try to combine two in one, or by buying some fashionable material we use our old dress for the foundation of the new one; a few ribbons of both colors, a handsome cravate, and you have a new toilette, stylish and inexpensive; if you have a good dressmaker, she will never object to make it up for you. In answer to your other question, I say you need not make your dresses exactly like those represented in the Magazine; if you find some too elaborate, you can omit some of the draperies, you can also change the colors to suit your taste. If it is a black silk dress that you require, you will have only to choose the dress you like best, send for the pattern, add up all the quantities of the different materials, and order the total quantity in black silk. COMTESSE DE B-. Description Of the Plates of Costumes. Full-sized patterns of all the Dresses, Casaques, Pelisses, &c., on these plates are supplied at the nominal price of 6d. each, for the accommodation of subscribers. For particulars see our extra page. The number in brackets, preceeding the description of each figure, is the number of the Costume in our list of full-sized patterns. The Reverse views of all the Costumes on these four Plates will be found on plate 6. PLATE THE FIRST. Fig. 1.-(95).-Travelling Costume of grey Cachemire de l'Inde and Pekin. The Jacket is opened en A behind, and is trimmed by a plissé of Pekin: in front is a revers of grey Cachemire. Two broad bands of Pekin cross the tablier, which is fastened behind under the pouf. A band of Pekin edges the deep flounce at bottom of skirt. 9 yds. Cachemire de l'Inde; 2 yds. Pekin; 24 buttons. Fig. 2.-(96).-The Bianca Carriage or Garden party Toilette of viéil-or silk and dark blue and Fantaisie silk. The body, of Fantaisie silk, is opened in front and pointed front and back. The over-skirt is of dark blue, looped up twice on each side by a rosette of ribbon or by jewels, and edged by a cord. At back the skirt forms a large and deep box pleat, a wide band trims the front and bottom of skirt. It will require 7 yds. vieil-or silk; 4 yds. dark blue silk; 31 4 yds. Fantaisie silk; 9 buttons; 5 yds. cord; yds. blue ribbon. Fig. 3.-(97).-The Olivia Promenade Toilette of pale green figured silk, and striped satin gauze. The Jacket is ornamented in front by a gilet, at back it forms a loop; a drapery of gauze is slightly gathered in front, it passes under the Jacket and through the loop of the jacket behind. The upper part of skirt is of silk cut in vandykes and trimmed by rosettes, the bottom of skirt is formed of a long plissé of gauze, edged by two small flounces of silk. The back forms 4 puffings of green silk. Quantity required: 8 yds. green silk; 6 yds. gauze; 6 yds. ribbon; 12 buttons. PLATE THE SECOND. Fig. 1.-(98).-The Bernhardt Promenade Costume of black silk, and light buff silk gauze. The cuirasse body opens behind en ▲, and the opening is filled up with gauze. The drapery is slightly bouillonnée, is edged by fringe all round, and fastens at back under the top loop, which can be made of gauze or of black silk like the second loop. The front of skirt is plissé, and edged by a fringe; the train is plain and trimmed by a ruche. 14 yds. black silk; 4 yds gauze; 4 yds. fringe; 12 buttons. The full-sized pattern of the Corsage is given with our present number. Fig. 2.-(99).-Greek Costume. This toilette is made of white foulard over a blue silk princesse dress. It is well suited for an indoor dress, its simplicity and grace will make it a very great favorite among tall and well made ladies. Any princesse dress which is rather faded or slightly soiled will look quite fresh again with the "Pallium worn over it. We have seen the Pallium made of white China crepe, and it was exceedingly elegant, the folds were exquisite. White cachemire de l'Inde, or mousseline de laine, can also be used with advantage; the toilette can be made in all colors. Mme. Depret has one in black Cachemire, trimmed with a light colored galon of a Greek pattern, which looks very charming and wellsuited for a slight figure. Our full-sized pattern is very carefully arranged, so that the material need not be much cut, and thus will be of use for future purposes. The beauty of the Pallium consists in the elegance of the looping up of the folds and of the material. The short sleeves can be looped on the shoulders with jewels or buttons. It will require:-13 yds. blue silk; 7 yds. foulard 22 inches wide; 4 yds. fringe; 7 yds. galon; 24 buttons. Fig. 3.-(100).-Sea-side Costume for Summer, of Bége and brown woollen materials. This simple and classic toilette is being ordered in great numbers by ladies going to the sea-side : it can be made with either woollen or washing materials. The upper skirt and corsage are in one single piece, trimmed to imitate a Jacket. The body is cut square both at front and back, |