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TOWNSEND'S

Monthly Selection

OF

PARISIAN COSTUMES.

A JOURNAL OF FASHION, LITERATURE, MUSIC, THE OPERA, AND THE THEATRES.

No. 306.

Observations

ON

MARCH, 1879.

LONDON AND PARISIAN FASHIONS.

In our number for September last we made a few remarks on the great differences that existed between the Aristocracy and the Republican party in France. We stated that the Aristocracy held themselves quite apart, even in dress, and only patronised their own exclusive modistes. This state of things still continues, our artist alone has the entrée into their salons, and to the establishments of their modistes. This gives our journal a great advantage over similar periodicals, and besides this, other Parisian Modistes will not grant permission to copy their creations to any Journal that publishes uncolored designs. Other artists are therefore obliged to fall back on their own imaginations, and this is the reason why so many extravagant fashions have lately been produced. We include among these extravagancies the attempt last year to introduce short skirts and crinolines: against which we cautioned our fair readers at the time. The result has proved the correctness of our information.

This season the greatest change will be in hats, and not before it was required. Ladies are getting quite tired of the small round hat and bonnet, trimmed in various ways with birds' wings, and parts of birds; sometimes with a whole one: they are beginning to think of the wanton destruction of so many thousands of beautiful birds merely for the purpose of adorning hats or bonnets: and this idea has been strengthened by the thoughtlessness of the young bride, who recently had her bridal dress nearly covered with the plumes of the lovely robin, a bird sacred to all of us from childhood's days. In consultation with our friend the Comtesse de B, we decided to do something to change the style. Our present number therefore contains in plate 2 a new style of Gainsborough Hat. We have also just

VOL. 27.

Madame Dufourmantelle, who has succeeded so well in reproducing our idea that we shall call the hat after her name: it will appear in the April number.

Notwithstanding the various hindrances now existing in Paris to the development of Fashion, our readers will see, by comparing the present number with the number for March 1878, that our Magazine has made great progress: this is caused by our intimate connection with the French Aristocracy.

Our present number contains many novelties-short sleeves are being introduced; in many Costumes the train is being made longer, so as to enable it to be carried over the arm when walking.

The Revers and the Gilet still retain their important places in the present style.

Evening dress is improving in elegance. The introduction of squares and scarves of old lace, combined and arranged on the dress in various ways, has been a great improvement. Embroidery is much used both for Morning and Evening Costume.

For Wedding Toilettes some ladies have tried to introduce leafless white roses or white jasmine, instead of orange blossoms, but the attempt has proved a failure.

Our April Number will contain a beautiful series of elegant novelties for the Spring.

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Since my last letter great events have taken place here, there has been a great advance of the extreme Republican party. My friends now think they see the beginning of the end; instead of being depressed, they have resumed their light-heartedness; they see that Paris will be the first to revolt against the present state of things, viz: Paris empty, loss of customers, &c.; they therefore hope the reunion of Paris with the Aristocracy will take place sooner than was expected.

The Salons are now comparatively lively, and at the present time Ladies are displaying more good taste and elegance than I have seen for some time. At the three last receptions, I have been charmed with the elegance of the toilettes; some of them will,

artist, Mons. most charming Ladies. The blonde Baronne de R-, who always dresses with such good taste, enhanced her beauty by wearing a dress of light blue Cashmire des Indes, embroidered with nacarat chenille and vieil-or, the body was high, with demi-longue sleeves trimmed by a large mousquetaire cuff of nacarat velours mille raies: the body separated at the back of waist, and formed the mousquetaire tunique which was ornamented by revers of nacarat velours mille raies, the same revers forming the point of the body in front. The tunic, which opened on a large embroidered front, was looped up at the sides, and was caught back by a cascade of velvet bows lined with blue satin, and trimmed all round by a fringe of nacarat chenille and vieil or; this tunic fell on a well spread train, trimmed by a plissé edged by a band of velvet. The young Vicomtesse Héléna keeps up the taste of her family, and follows in the footsteps of her aunt, the well-known and ever admired Mme. Tal -; she wore a Princesse dress of silver grey Poult de soie, closed down the front, to about 30 inches above the ground, where it then opened, by two double revers of grey velours frappé, on a pleated petticoat of light blue satin: two large revers, starting from the side seams, met behind, where they were fastened at the top by a double bow of blue satin; the back was bouffant between the revers, and terminated in a long train trimmed by plissés and revers. COMTESSE DE B-.

quietly observing some of our

Description

Of the Plates of Costumes.

Full-sized patterns of all the Dresses, Casaques, Pelisses, &c. on these plates are supplied at the nominal price of 6d. each, for the accomodation of subscribers. For particulars see page 8.

The Reverse views of all the Costumes on these 4 Plates will be found on plate 6.

PLATE THE FIRST.

Fig. 1.-Bridesmaid's Costume of garnet colored silk and buff brocade. The tunique is looped gracefully at the sides by the écharpe, and allowed to puff slightly behind, and then to flow fully and form the train, which is trimmed by a fringe and 4 small flounces. The skirt is short, made of brocade and trimmed all round by flounces; the écharpe is laid across the front, is caught up in the middle under a rosette, passes over the tunique, and then is looped up and fastened on the train. This Costume will require 12 yds. of garnet colored silk; 4 brocade; 5 fringe; 36 buttons. The little coquettish hat is made to match the toilette; it is in black satin trimmed with garnet silk, a feather of the same color, and a vieil or feather; cord and tassels give a very elegant finish to the hat.

Fig. 2.-Bridal toilette of satin and brocade : the body is separate from the skirt, and opens en pointe on a brocaded Gilet: the back and sleeves are trimmed to match: handsome Malines lace ornaments the neck and sleeves. The skirt is crossed by two écharpes of brocade, which, starting from the second side seams, are then looped in front and headed by a bou

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Fig. 1.-Promenade Costume of grey cach. mire des Indes. The toilette is, in the first instance, a Princess dress, the bottom of which is trimmed by plissés; the front is ornamented by a plastron of velours frappé, a similar band is ruu up the back, the same width of band simulates the jacket, and under which is fastened the polonaise skirt, which is looped up behind so as to make it puff slightly. In front it is laid in 5 pleats, the top one being sewn on the dress; the sides are covered by numerous loops of ribbon, the edge of the polonaise is scallopped and embroidered. 17 yds. of grey cachemire; 1 yd. of vélours frappe; 8 yds. narrow satin and velvet ribbons.

Fig. 2.-Little Boy's Costume of cérise poplin and caroubier velvet. It is simply a jacket dress, trimmed to simulate a separate Gilet. 2 yds. poplin; 1 yd. velvet; 12 buttons; 5 yds. velvet ribbon.

Fig. 3.-The Abercorn Visiting Costume of green silk and buff brocade; the Gilet, revers, and end of tablier are of brocade; the tablier, as will be seen by our engraving, is laid in pleats, and fastens behind by two loops of green silk; the two ends of brocade rest on the train, where they are fastened. Will require 16 yds. of silk; 2 yds. of brocade; 24 yds. of ribbon.

Fig. 4. The Dudley Promenade Costume of light brown cachemire, trimmed with dark brown silk and blue "velours mille-raies," the body is separate from the skirt, but the skirt and tablier are in one, the skirt is made just to clear the ground, and the train which is separated from the skirt just above the revers, is carried on the arm. We need not impress our fair readers with the great advantages this new style offers. A lady can now be sure that her dress is really off the ground, and both her hands are at liberty to hold an umbrella and a hand bag. The hat that accompanies this toilette is a new Gainsborough style, trimmed with blue and maroon silk; a long ostrich feather ornaments the crown and falls behind. Will require 15 yds. cachemire; 14 yds. of dark brown silk; yd. velours mille-raies; 3 yds. of blue ribbon; 24 buttons.

PLATE THE THIRD.

Fig. 1.-Ball dress of pink silk and white embroidered muslin: this Princesse dress is or

FOR MARCH, 1879.

namented by two plissés at the bottom. A Gilet of the same pink silk edged by white lace, trims the front: 2 écharpes of muslin are laid across the front, and meet on the train under a large bow of pink silk, on which is fastened a bunch of dark pink roses and green leaves. Between the white écharpes, start 4 deep folds of pink silk; these pass under four vertical pleats, and these are fastened on the train under the large bow. 15 yds. of pink silk; 4 yds. of muslin: 12 yds. of wide lace; 5 yds. narrow lace.

Fig. 2.-The Margaretha Dinner toilette of buff silk and brocade; the body is separated from the skirt, and is cut square at front and back, and trimmed with wide Brussels lace. The front is ornamented by a Gilet of white embroidered satin, edged by Brussels lace. A mousquetaire cuff ornaments the sleeve, and is made of the same Galon as the trimmings of the skirt. A band of brocaded silk, starting at the bottom of the Gilet, is carried en plastron down to the front of skirt, slightly widening to the bottom, the side breadths are a little gathered under the plastron, and are then fastened under the simulated Polonaise of brocade; this last is trimmed with Galon and spreads out on the train; a sash of brocade edged by fringe, starts from under the cuirasse at right side; 14 yds. buff silk; 3 yds. brocade; 6 yds. Galon; 44 yds. of fringe; 1 yds. narrow Brussels lace; 3 yds. broad lace; yd. white satin; 12 white satin buttons.

Fig. 3.-Ball toilette à revers of light blue mousseline de l'Inde, (woollen), trimmed with dark blue silk, brocade and embroidery. The dress is made with body and skirt separate; the skirt is monteé on stiff muslin, on which is laid the plissé front of the skirt, the plissés, and the embroidery. The brocade and revers are allowed to float so as to simulate a separate over skirt. At the back, the Polonaise is fastened to the train all round, and is edged by fringe embroidery and a plissé. This toilette will require 7 yds. mousseline de laine de l'Inde, 47 inches wide); 1 yd. brocade; 1 yd. dark blue silk; 8 yds. wide broderie d'Alsace; 6 yd. narrow embroidery; 12 buttons; 2 yds. dark blue ribbon; 21 yds. light brown ribbon.

PLATE THE FOURTH.

Fig. 1.-Visite Mantle of black Cashmire, lined with silk and trimmed with lace; the open sleeves are trimmed with a ruche of lace fastened down in the centre. On the front and shoulders are ornaments of passementerie and tassels: it will require 4 yds. of cashmire; 8 yds. lace for the ruching; 3 yds. for the edge; 4 ornaments; 18 buttons.

The Dress is of sage brown poplin, trimmed with fringe and ribbon. 13 yds. poplin ; 4 yds. fringe; 5 yds. ribbon; 12 buttons.

Fig. 2.-The Carmen Promenade Costume, of the color called lie de vin, it is of silk and brocade, trimmed with light grey silk piping.

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made of brocade, edged by a deep pleated flounce of plain silk. 4 wide folds cross the front and are fastened at the sides under the false Polonaise of plain silk: two long ends of brocade edged by 5 pipings, start from under the folds, and rest on the train where they are fastened. A striped Gilet edged by revers and crossed by five tabs, gives a new style to this jacket. 8 yds. silk; 8 yds. brocade; 2 yds. grey silk for the Gilet and pipings; 12 grey buttons; 12 brown buttons.

Fig. 3.-Demi-Saison Paletot of black silk, trimmed with lace, cord, and passementerie. 4 yds. silk; 3 yds. wide lace; 7 yds. narrow lace; 2 yds. cord: 6 rosettes and tassels; 2 large tassels for the back.

The dress is of light violet striped woollen material, and will take 14 yds. of stuff.

PLATE THE FIFTH.

No. 1. HAT of silver grey felt; the front portion of crown is trimmed by an ostrich feather of the same color, at the back are some wings of a darker grey and a draped band of maroon velvet, with a floating end, and under the crown is a tuft of maroon flowers.

No. 2. CHAPEAU of pale yellow plush and of silk and ribbon of the same color, the silk is arranged to form a flat rúche, and at the back are bows and a floating end of the ribbon, from which start two ostrich feathers also of pale yellow, and falling over the front.

No. 3. Bow for the front of neck. It is composed of Batiste, edged by narrow lace and finished by a knot and a thick cluster of loops and ends of narrow black ribbon.

No. 4. COLLARETTE for a young lady, it is of white linen, edged by an embroidered frill, headed by a band, which is also embroidered and is edged at each side by a rouleau: the front of neck is slightly open, and is trimmed by an upright frill, a folded band and an embroidered frill: in front is a bow of cèrise ribbon.

No. 5. HAT of dark brown silk: the brim is covered en bouillon, and starting from the top of crown are some dark brown ostrich. feathers, which fall towards the right side: at back are two wing feathers of the same color, accompanied by a group of bows of cérise or crimson ribbon.

No. 6. ORNAMENT for the front of neck; it is of spiral folds of Flanders lace, with groups of bows of black silk.

No. 7. CHAPEAU of pale grey silk: the front is ornamented by ostrich feathers, and by loops of narrow ribbon of the same color, with two small black aigrettes: the sides and back of crown are finished by a ribbed band of the silk, and towards the left side is a floating end.

No. 8. COLLARETTE for an open corsage: it is of white crèpe lisse, and is edged by a ganffred frill and finished by pointed revers similarly edged, and below which are loops of narrow brown ribbon and spiral folds finished by the frills.

No. 9. CHAPEAU of pale grey felt with ostrich feather trimming of the same color: the brim is edged by a puffing of maroon silk, and by silver cord.

No. 10. HAT of dark green velvet, trimmed by a green and a gilt ostrich feather. Inside the brim (at right side) is a puffing of green silk.

No. 11. NECK ORNAMENT of white embroidered cambric, arranged to form a triple frill headed by a knot.

No. 12. COLLAR (for a young lady) of white and checked muslin, crossed by rouleaux of plain muslin,

COLEMARSH MILL.

BY G. EWART FLEMING.

CHAPTER VII.

CRUEL AS THE GRAVE.

A soft breeze was waving among the treetops over-head, as Gilbert Armstrong walked from Mrs. Gray's cottage to his own home on the evening of Wilfred North's birthday féte, and a golden harvest moon sailed through a sky of deep unclouded purple, but Gilbert's mind was not in harmony with the tranquil beauty of the August night, and his soul was hot within him, because Milicent would not hearken to his suit.

The die was cast, he had put his fate to the touch, scarcely hoping to win, and he had lost all. Milicent had refused him. In that one thought Gilbert Armstrong summed up all the evil of his life. He had set his heart upon this one woman, whom he adored with such a slavish tenderness, and because that gift was denied him, he cried out upon life and its belongings, and said with his favorite character, Hamlet the Dane,

"Man delights not me, nor woman neither."

On reaching the mill, he did not enter the house, though he saw by the twinkling of a light through the kitchen window, that Susan Marks had returned from her unwonted merrymaking, and was doubtless preparing supper. He turned aside from the door, and walked round the house towards the mill buildings. The moon shone full on the open paved yard as Gilbert crossed it, and opened a wicket gate which led from the yard into the adjoining meadow. He sauntered through the field to the river's brim, the noisy Cole, which dashed past the alders and willows that graced its banks, and tumbled torrent-wise over the old mill-dam. Gilbert stood by the water side, and mused in his grim fashion over the day's events. His thoughts reverted to the scene in the tent, and he ground his teeth with impotent rage as he contrasted in his mind the blushing, conscious face with which Milicent endured Wilfred North's salute, and the same face as he had seen it not an hour before, white and stern, and with an uncompromising No in answer to his question, on the quiet lips.

The whole force of Gilbert Armstrong's nature rose in passionate revolt against that calm No, and out of his very hopelessness came a desperate resolve that this thing he desired should yet be his; that Milicent Gray's No, firm and conclusive as she had meant it to

be, should be cancelled, and its place taken by the vows which holy Church has provided for the shy lips of a bride.

Perhaps Gilbert Armstrong would have accepted his dismissal quietly that evening, if another influence besides love had not been at work in his mind. Perhaps he would have returned silent and sorrowful to his mill, and after a night of bitter regret, he might have taken up his burden manfully in the morning, and have borne it until it passed in unselfish gladness at his lost love's happiness with a better or more fortunate man. But the memory of Wilfred North's attentions formed a bitter ingredient in his trial and disappointment. To his grief was added fierce jealousy of a man whose family he disliked because they coveted his heritage; jealousy also of a meaner kind, because Wilfred was handsome and young, refined and clever, and had power to call to Milicent's cheek such eloquent blushes as he had seen that very day.

So out of Gilbert Armstrong's musing by the river-side came bad things, the offspring of 'envy, hatred, malice, and all uncharitableness.' He had been wont in thinking of the girl he loved, to consider winning her, as gaining her affection and her willing consent to be his wife, but now he said to himself with a deadly resolve,

"I will have her yet. No man shall stand between me and my chosen wife. I mean to marry her, but I can wait."

Gilbert Armstrong loved his dead friend's daughter with a rare depth of affection, but if love only had spoken, he would have resigned her that night, and, falling back on his own lonely life, he would have left her to enjoy the sunshine of youth and hope, and to make her happiness apart from him; but love's share in his fell resolve was a small one; he thought of Wilfred North's kiss, and Milicent's blushes, and verily he felt that while "love is strong as death," "jealousy is cruel as the grave, the coals thereof are coals of fire, which hath a most vehement flame."

CHAPTER VIII.

PLAYING WITH FIRE.

Gilbert Armstrong waited. The hot August days melted into September clearness, which in its turn was crystalised by the early frosts of fresh October, but during all that time the shadow of Gilbert's once familiar figure had never fallen across Mrs. Gray's doorstep.

The widow was distressed. She liked Gilbert as warmly as it was possible to like any. one beyond the pale of her own family, and

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