168 Routes 66, 67.—St. Gall-St. Gall to Coire. of the 10th century) may be dated the foundation of the town. He and his 100 monks of the Benedictine order thought it no disgrace to sally forth, sword in hand and helmet on head, backed by their 200 serfs, in the hour of danger, when the convent was threatened by ungodly laymen. The donations of pious pilgrims from all parts of Europe soon augmented enormously the revenues of the abbots. They became the most considerable territorial sovereigns in N. Switzerland; their influence was increased by their elevation to the rank of princes of the empire; they were engaged in constant wars with their neighbours, and were latterly entangled in perpetual feuds with their subjects at home. These bold burghers, who, in the first instance, owed their existence and prosperity to the convent, became, in the end, restive under its rule. In the beginning of the 15th century the land of Appenzell threw off the yoke of the abbot; at the Reformation St. Gall itself became independent of him; and in 1712 the ecclesiastical prince was obliged to place the convent under the protection of those very citizens whose ancestors had been his serfs. The French revolution caused the secularization of the abbey, and the sequestration of its revenues followed in 1805. The last abbot, Pancratius Forster, died in 1829, a pensioner on the bounty of others, in the convent of Muri. The Abbey Church, now cathedral, was so completely modernized in the last century, that it possesses little to interest the stranger. The deserted Monastery is now converted into a public school, and the part of it which formed the abbot's Palace (Die Pfalz) now serves for the public offices of the Government of the canton. The Convent Library (Stifts Bibliothek) still exists in the town, and contains many curiosities, such as various ancient MSS. either from Ireland, or transcribed by Irish monks; also a MS. of the Niebelunzen Lied. At the Cassino Club will be found an excellent reading-room. The Freudenberg, the neighbouring mountain on the W. of the town, commands from its summit, about 2 miles off, a fine panorama, including the lake of Constance and the mountains of St. Gall and Appenzell, with the Sentis at their head. A carriageroad leads up to the top, where an inn is built. Diligences go from St. Gall daily to Constance, Winterthur, and Zurich; 4 times a-week to Wesen and Rapperschwyl; twice a-week to Lindau; once a-week to Bregenz and Innsbruck; 3 times a-week to Donaueschingen and Carlsruhe ; 3 times a-week to Coire, by Rorschach, Altstetten, and thence to Milan by the Splugen and Bernardin. Extra Post in Canton St. Gall. Route 67.-St. Gall to Coire. versed by diligences 3 times a-week. Travellers should endeavour to reach Pfeffers in one day, as the intermediate stations are not good sleeping-places. There is a direct road from St. Gall to Altstetten, avoiding the detour by Rorschach and the Lake of Constance; but it is very steep and bad, not fit for a heavy carriage. The pedestrian, with the aid of a guide, may reach Coire by Appenzell, crossing the mountains to Wildhaus (Routes 68 and 71). 1 Rorschach-(Inn: Post; Krone, dear and uncivil; Löwe). This little lake-port and town of 1650 inhabitants is the principal corn-market in Switzerland. The grain required to supply the greater part of the Alpine districts of N. Switzerland is imported from Suabia, in boats, across the lake, and is deposited temporarily in large warehouses here. Much muslin is made at Rorschach. A steam-boat goes 5 times a-week between it and Friedrichshafen, in Würtemburg, and the steamers from Constance and Lindau also touch here regularly. The deposits of the Rhine are, it is said, forming themselves into shallows between Rorschach and Lindau, which may soon impede the direct navigation of the lake between these two places. On the slope a little above the town is the large dilapidated building, called Statthaltery, or Marienberg, a palace once of the proud abbots of St. Gall, now a farm-house. It commands a fine view from its terrace. Near it, perched on a projecting sandstone rock, is the desolate Castle of St. Anne, with its square keep. Skirting the foot of low hills clad with vineyards, beneath which the yellow-bellied pumpkins may be seen basking in the sun, the road passes along under the shade of fruittrees, but soon quits the margin of the lake to cross the flat delta of the Rhine. The district around the mouth of the river abounds in marsh and is by no means healthy. 169 1 Rheinegg-(Inn: Krone)-a village of 1370 inhabitants, on the 1. bank of the Rhine, about 4 miles above its embouchure, situated under vine-clad hills, surmounted by a ruined castle, which was destroyed 1445 by the Appenzellers. There are several other castles on the neighbouring heights. St. Margarethen, a pretty village completely embowered in a grove of walnut and fruit trees, is situated near the Austrian ferry, over the Rhine, which must be crossed in going to Bregenz or Lindau (see Hand-book for S. Germany), but which our road leaves on the 1. It turns soon afterwards due S. up the valley of the Rhine, through an uninteresting district of flat and unhealthy marsh, interspersed with gravel-beds, which the traveller should get over as fast as possible, on account of malaria. The Rhine here is a wide, shallow, muddy, and unsteady stream, constantly changing its channel and overflowing its banks: it is not navigated except by wood rafts, which float down it. 11 Altstetten-(Inn: Rabe, Corbeau; just tolerable)-a village of 1815 inhabitants, in a fruitful neighbourhood. There is a road from this over the hill of Stoss to St. Gall, by Gais (Route 68); but it is very steep, only to be surmounted by the aid of extra horses, and barely practicable for English carriages. It takes two hours to reach the top. The view from it over the Alps of the Voralberg is fine. 1 Sennwald-(Inn: Post, by no means first-rate, but tolerable). Down to the 17th century, the district which we now traverse belonged to the powerful barons of Hohen Sax, many of whose castles, reduced to ruins by the Appenzellers, may still be discerned upon the heights on the W. of the Rhine valley. One of this family, a brave and noble soldier and a Protestant, escaped with difficulty from the massacre of St. Bartholomew at Paris, and on his return 170 Route 67.—St. Gall to Coire—Baths of Pfeffers. home was murdered by his nephew. After this foul deed, it is the popular belief, that the blessing of God was withdrawn from the race: it is certain they never prospered. In 1616 their vast domains were sold to Zurich, and the family became extinct soon after. The body of the murdered man is still preserved in a perfect condition, in a coffin with a glass lid, dried like a mummy, under the church-tower of Sennwald. This circumstance, and the story connected with it, have given to the remains a reputation for sanctity; so that, though a Protestant, the Catholics have stolen some of the limbs as relics, and once actually carried off the body across the Rhine: it was, however, speedily reclaimed. Werdenberg (Inn: Post)—was the seat of a noble family of that name, who played an important part in early Swiss history. The Stammschloss, the cradle of the race, still stands in good preservation above the town. A cross road runs hence through the vale of Toggenburg, and past Wildhaus, to Schaffhausen (Route 71). 11 Sewelen. Below Sargans (described in Route 14), which we pass a little on the rt., the roads from the Grisons, and from Zurich, meet that from St. Gall. 1 Ragatz-(Inn: Poste; Hotel of the Tamina; not very good)—a village situated at the mouth of the gorge (tobel) through which the torrent Tamina issues out into the Rhine. Mules and guides may be hired here (for 6 fr.) to go to Pfeffere. The authorised charges may be seen in the tarif hung up, both at the inns here and at the baths. The BATHS OF PFEFFERS, which no one should omit to visit from Ragatz, are situated about 6 miles off, up the valley of the Tamina. The excursion to the baths and back need not occupy more than 6 or 8 hours, which will be well spent in exploring one of the most extraordinary spots in Switzerland. There are two paths leading to them, practicable only on foot or on horseback-one, on the rt. bank of the Tamina, leads past the Convent of Pfeffers; beyond which a horse cannot go, and is 13 mile longer than that on thel. bank, the one commonly chosen, which is practicable for horses as far as the baths. The pedestrian may take one in going, the other in returning. The bridle-path on the 1. bank of the Tamina, is carried at first up a very steep and fatiguing ascent, which it requires an hour to surmount, through beech-woods, and at times along the edge of the precipice, at whose foot the Tamina is heard, chafing and roaring. After surmounting this portion the traveller emerges from the wood and crosses the sloping pastures which clothe the upper part of the valley. On the opposite side the Convent of Pfeffers is seen. At the hamlet of Valens the path begins to descend by zigzags into the gloomy gorge of the Tamina, which is just like a crack traversing the valley longitudinally, and at the bottom of this the traveller finds himself arrived at the Baths. The path_along the right bank crosses the Tamina at Ragatz, and surmounts an equally steep ascent, on the top of which it reaches the Convent of Pfeffers, finely placed on an elevated mountain-platform, commanding, on one side, the valley of the Rhine, backed by the majestic Falkniss; on the other, opening out towards the Lake of Wallenstadt and the peaks of the Sieben Kurfürsten. The Benedictine monastery of Pfeffers, founded 713, was suppressed, after an existence of 10 centuries, in 1838, by a decree of the Government of the canton of St. Gall. "This suppression was effected by the Radical party, in opposition to the Conservatives; and, being contrary to the act of Confederation and the guarantees of the Congress of Vienna, Route 67.-Baths of Pfeffers. will probably, in due time, be assigned as a reason for military interference."-P. The Convent once possessed a very extensive territory; its abbots were princes, but the French, as usual, appropriated their revenues; and the little property that was restored to them at the termination of the French rule, including the baths, of which they were proprietors, is now to be appropriated to pious works, the education of the people, &c. The revenues of the convent were valued at 216,365 Swiss florins. The members of the fraternity are to be pensioned for their lives. The convent, a vast edifice, but not otherwise remarkable, was built 1665, in place of one destroyed by fire. It encloses a church in the centre, like all the convents of the Benedictine order. Near the convent stands the ruined castle of Wartenstein. After leaving behind the convent and hamlet, the path lies over the pastures of the upland valley, here carpeted with bright green, while its sides are clothed in woods, out of which rise bare limestone peaks and cliffs. The river Tamina flows, concealed from view, at the bottom of the deep gash, or gorge, in the centre, which is so narrow that in places, the two sides appear united. The path, gradually descending, approaches this gorge near a small wooden shed projecting over it, and containing a sort of crane or pulley, intended to lower down provisions and other things to the baths. This is, perhaps, the best point for viewing this singular spot. On looking over the verge of the precipice you perceive, at the bottom of the ravine, at the vast depth of 600 ft. below, the roofs of two large buildings, like cotton factories, in size and structure. So completely vertical are the walls of rock, that the rope from the pulley descends nearly straight into the roof of the bath-house. The only mode of reaching the baths from this side is by a staircase 171 (stiege) formed partly of trunks of trees, attached to the face of the cliff, and partly of steps cut in the rock, and situated about 100 yards higher up than the crane. At the bottom of the ladder the Tamīna is crossed by a natural bridge of rock, beneath which the river forces its way out of sight and hearing. Ten minutes' walk below this point lie The Baths; two large piles of building connected together by a chapel. They are built on a narrow ledge of rock, a few feet above the roaring Tamina, and so deeply sunken between the rocks that they may be said to be half buried; so that in the height of summer, the sun appears above them only from 10 to 4. They are large gloomy buildings, damp and not over clean. There are rooms enough to receive between 200 and 300 persons, and, in the season, they are almost all occupied; but they are ill-furnished, and not comfortable. The houses are traversed by vaulted corridors, 400 ft. long. At one end is the pump-room, and on the ground-floor the baths, 12 or 14 shallow wooden pans, designed for the reception of several persons at once, in chambers so filled with vapour that the patient is half blinded on entering them. There are also private baths; both are supplied with a current of hot water, constantly running through them. Since the dissolution of the convent it is probable that the baths may fall under new and better management. As the accommodation for strangers is homely, so is the fare simple. There is a daily table d'hôte, at 12, for 2nd class guests, and at 1 for 1st class; at which 200 persons sometimes assemble: the price, including a bottle of wine, is 1 fl. 6 kr. The physician exercises an equally powerful sway over the dinner with the cook, since his fiat banishes all unwholesome viands and limits the number of dishes. The hot springs of Pfeffers were not known to the Romans. There is 172 Route 67.-Gorge and Hot Spring of Pfeffers. a story that they were discovered by a hunter who, having ventured into the abyss of the Tamina, in the pursuit of game, remarked the column of vapour arising from them. For many years nothing was done to facilitate access to them, and patients desirous of profiting by their healing virtues were let down to the source from the cliffs above, by ropes, and, in order to reap as much benefit as possible, were accustomed to pass a week together, both day and night, in them, not only eating and drinking but sleeping, under hot water, instead of under blankets. The sources of the virtue of the water is not very evident, as a pint contains scarcely 3 grains of saline particles; it has a temperature of about 98° Fahrenheit. The situation of the baths is both gloomy and monotonous, hemmed in between dripping walls of rock, and shaded by dank foliage, with only a narrow strip of sky overhead, and without even space or facilities for locomotion and exercise, unless the patient will scale the sides of the valley above him. To one fresh arrived from the upper world, its meadows and sunshine, a visit to Pfeffers has all the effect of being at the bottom of a well or a mine. The atmosphere is kept at one regular temperature of chilliness by the perpetual draft brought down by the torrent, and the solitary and imprisoned ray of sunshine which about noon, and for an hour or two afterwards, finds its way into these recesses, is insufficient to impart warmth or cheerfulness. A small terrace, 6 or 8 feet wide, close to the baths, is the only level space near them, if the sojourner wishes to walk he has no choice, but must begin to ascend. It is to be presumed, that few English travellers would be disposed to make any stay here. A passing visit of a few hours, or at most, a single night spent here, will satisfy the curiosity of most persons. No one, however, should depart without visiting the Source of the hot spring. Most of the guide-books describe this as a service of danger: the writer of this cannot help thinking that its terrors have been exaggerated. The spring is constantly visited even by ladies. At the same time, persons of weak nerves and subject to giddiness in the head, should on no account attempt it. If the stranger have any fears, they will be considerably allayed by the sight of the guide who shows the way, and whose qualifications for this task of danger appear to consist in his having a wooden leg! A few yards above the spot where the bath-house stands, the sides of the ravine of the Tamina contract in an extraordinary manner, so as to ap proach within a few feet of each other; a little farther they even close over and cover up the river, which is seen issuing out of a cavernous chasm. A bridge of planks across the Tamina, leads to the entrance, which is closed by a door, The bridge is prolonged into the gorge, in the shape of a scaffolding or shelf, suspended by iron stanchions to the rocks, and partly laid in a niche cut out of the side. It is never more than 3, but generally is only 1 plank, wide; and is carried all along the chasm as far as the hot spring, affording the only means of approach to it, as the sides of the rent are quite vertical, and there is not an inch of room between them and the torrent, for the sole of a foot to rest. A few yards from the entrance the passage is darkened by the overhanging rock. The sudden chill of an atmosphere never visited by the sun's rays, the fearful rushing and roaring of the torrent, 30 or 40 feet below, the threatening position of the rocks above, and the trembling and quivering of the narrow planks on which you tread, protected' by no railing, or balustrade, are enough to cause a slight shudder, even to one possessed of strong nerves. In parts, it is almost dark, where the sides of the ravine overlap one ano |
