Spain. - Walls of Pæstum. – Tombs. – Temples.- Its present Slate.

– Reflections. – Volcanic Eruption. — Pompeii. — Amphitheatre. -

Herculaneum. - Skeletons in Pompeii. - Temple. – Houses. – Arti-

cles found there. — Morals of the Inhabitants. — Pickpockets. — Pup- ,

py Auction.- Vesuvius.- Ascent by Night. – A Warm Bed. - Scene

at Sunrise. - Eruptions. — Crater. - Manuscripts at Herculaneum. -

Skeletons. - Shops. - Eruptions. - Minerals.- Fertility. - Sorrento.

- Madam Starke. -- Ruins. - Villa of Vedius Pollio. -- Tasso.— The

Piano.- Mountain Scenery.-Amalfi.-Artists.- Mountains. - Snow-

pits. - Scenery. – A Singular Ride and a pleasant Acquaintance. . 110

CHAPTER VII.

CAPUA AND ROME.

A Sleeping City. - Leave Naples. -- Carriages. - Conductor. -- Aver-

sa. — Hospital. — Capua. — Amphitheatre. — The Liris. – Mola.

Cicero.- Robbers. — Countess of Fondi. - Terracina — Promontory

of Circe. - Pontine Marshes. — Appii Forum. - The Three Taverns.

- Velletri. - Lake Nemi. – Mount Albano. -- View of Rome. - Re-

flections. - Lake Albano. - American Coffee-house. -Campagna Ro

mana. - Malaria. — Aqueducts. - Walls of Rome. -- Feelings on en-

tering the City. - Gibbon. - Hotel. — Appearance of Rome. - The

Seven Hills. - Villas. -- Fountains. - Obelisks. — Triumphal Col-

umns.- Bridges.- Public Squares. - Palaces. — St. Peter's Church,

Vestibule, Interior, High Altar. - St. Peter's Chair. — The Dome. -

Reflections. - Brazen Ball. - The Ancient Church. - Public Deva

tions. — Vatican Palace. — Specimens of the Fine Arts – Classic

Interest. --Statuary.--Sculpture.-Vatican Library.- Popes of Rome;

their History, Claims, and Power; their Humiliation — Etiquette of

the Papal Court. - Interview with the Pope; his Dress, and Personal

Appearance. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133

CHAPTER VIII.

ROME.

Interview with the Pope. - Conversation. - Homage. - Presents. -

Cardinal Fesch. — Paintings. – Mother of Napoleon. — Rival Artists.

- Ara Cæli. — Gibbon. - Public Amusements. - Pagan Festivals. -

Catholic Paganism. – Palatine Hill. - Amphitheatre. — The Colise-

um. -- Its Structure, Ornaments, and the Scenes enacted there. -

Gladiators.-- Wild Animals. -- Baths; their Origin and Object. - Baths

of Titus, of Diocletian, of Caracalla. — Public Morals. — Idolatry. -

The Jews. — Catholics.-Funerals.-'l'he Pope's Guard. - Cardinale.

- Popes. - Population of Rome. - The Clergy.- Debts and Income

of the Pope. - Police. - Index of Prohibited Books. — Prisons. -

Hospitals. — Beggars. - Funerals.-- Secret Societies. -- Insurgents.-

Robbers. - Military Escorts. - Education in Rome. --The Gregorian

College. - The University of Rome. ............ 178

CHAPTER IX.

SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

Cruise at Sea. — Parties in Spain. - Friars. - Carlists. - The Queen's

Party. – Liberals. - Convents. - Archbishop of Santiago. — Riot at

Barcelona. - Juota of Extermination. — Archbishop of Tarragona.-

Friars in Majorca. - Storm at Sea, -- One of our Crew lost. — Poetry.

- Reflections. - An April Fool. - Portugal; her past History.-Don

Miguel. -- Don Pedro.- The Queen.- The Army. - National Income

and Debt. - Convents.—Monks and Friars.- The Jesuits. — Nuns.-

Colleges. -- Income of the Clergy, - Education. — The Navy. - Lis-

bon; its History and Population. -- Houses. - Doge. - Earthquake.-

Dress of Females.- Education.- Libraries. — Records of the Inquisi-

tion. - Rare Works. — Paintings. - English Chapel and Grave Yard.

- Fielding, - Dr. Doddridge. - Hospital. - Insane Patients. - Med-

ical School. -- Church of St. Roque.- Foundling Hospital. - Schools.

- Convent of Belem. - The Deaf and Dumb. - English Craft, and

Portuguese Folly. ... .... .... ... .... 216

CHAPTER X.

CINTRA, MAFRA, AND MADRID.

Visit to Cintra in Autumn, - in the Spring. — Natural Scenery. -

Houses, Mountains. — The Sea.- Montserrat. - Palaces.- Mafra, its

Palace. - Convent.- Organs. — Musical Bells. - English Influence.

- Leave Lisbon for Madrid. - Smugglers. - Robbers. — Prejudice

against Foreigners. -- Royalists. — Volunteers. — Carlists.-Croakers.

- A Sail on the Tagus. — Our Lady of Attalia. — Porters. — A Cabin

Scene. -- Posadas. - Roads — Smugglers, their Mode of Life. - A

Night Scene. — Armour. — Sketches of my Companions. — Our Road.

- Pigs. — Turkeys. -- Cork Trees. — The Olive. – Fortresses. - Es-

tramoz.— Elvas. – Badajoz.- National Hatred.— Smuggling.-Music.

- Arrive at Badajoz. - Cavallo Blanco. -- The Landlady. -- Servant

Boy.- Recruits, mode of treating them.- Drilling. - Manuel Godoy.

- The Queen Regent. - Battle of Badajoz. -- The Cathedral. -

Paintings. - Leave Badajoz. - A Parting Scene. — My Fellow-Pas-

sengers. — The Mayoral. - Our Galera. - Postilions. - Merida. -

Truxillo. — Meeting of Friends. — A Murder. - Talavera, Battle

there.-- Spanish Ferocity. - Flocks of Sheep. - Sheepfolds. — Shep-

herds. — Christmas - Robbers. — Severe Cold. — Madrid..... 243

CHAPTER XI.

MADRID: THE ESCURIAL.

History of Madrid. - Its Gates. — Public Squares. — Fountains. - Gal-

legos. - Population. - Public Buildings. - Streets. - Lights. - Pase-

os. - The Prado. - Public Gardens. - Convents. -- Royal Palace. -

Library. -- Armory. - Military Museum. - Cabinet of Natural Sci-

ences. - Museum of the Fine Arts. — Royal Museum of Paintings. -

Prisons. — Holydays. — Beggars. - Confession. — General Hospital.

- Foundling Hospital. – Mrs. Mendoza. -- School for Female Or.

phans. - Private Charity. — Mount of Picty. — The Deaf and Dunib.

- The Blind. - Modes of Burial. - Friar's Robes. - The Escurial;

its History, Form, and Size. - Tomb of Spanish Kings. -- Paintings.

- Cambiaso. - Relics. - Dangerous Adventures. - The Cortes. -

The Pope. -- The Clergy. – Nunneries. -- Feelings of the People. -

Sermons. - Idolatry. - Catholics in the United States. - Public

Speaking. — The Spanish Language. — Don Quixote. — Party Strise.

- Exiles. — Houses. — Insurance. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276

CHAPTER XII.

ARANJUEZ, TOLEDO, AND CORDOVA.

Leave Madrid. — Diligences. — Aranjuez, – The Palace. - Gardens.-

The Town. - Grist-Mill. - Ride to Toledo. -- Reflections. — Histo-

ry. — Jews. - Moors. — The Inquisition. — Foundling Hospital. -

Celibacy of the Clergy. - Clerical Friends. — Toledo Blades. — Serv-

ing two Masters. - Watch of the Passion. — Cathedral. - Treasures.

- Mozarabic Liturgy. - Priests and Churches. - Walk to Ocania. –

Travelling Companions. — Robbery. -- Our Loss. - Relics. — Appear.

ance of our Party. - Pocket Testament. - Posada. — Affidavits. —

Robbers and Magistrates. - Poverty. — Pity from Beggars. - Change

of Climate. — Mountains. - Poetry. - Baylen. — Horses. -- Pelistes.

- Cordova. — Mahometanism. — Jews. -- Fanaticism. - Martyrs.--

Mosque of Cordova. -- Carmona. — Its Capture. ........ 319

CHAPTER XIII.

SEVILLE, CADIZ, AND XEREZ.

History of Seville.- Muza. — Exilona. -Othman.- Alfonso the Sixth.

- Zaida.-Expulsion of the Moors. — Walls of the City. - Houses. -

School of the Noble Arts. - Spanish Painters. - Collections of Paint-

ings. - Convents. — Murillo. — Hospital. -- Population. - Longevity.

- The Golden Tower. -- Italica. — Roman Emperors. --The Alcazar.

– Hall of the Ambassadors. - Gardens. -- House of Pilate. - Cannon-

Foundery. — Tobacco Factory.- Female Operatives.- Cathedral. -

Giralda. — Paintings. - Columbian Library. - Clergy. - Society and

Manners. — Parting of Friends. — A Spanish Steamboat. - A Foolish

Priest. — Arrive at Cadiz. - Situation of the City. - Its Beauty. -

Population. - Public Morals. — Houses. -- St. Mary's. — Xerez. -

- Vintage. - Wine-Press. - Manufacture of Wine. - Temperance

Wines. — Agrass. — Wine-Vaults. - Wealth of the Wine-Merchants.

- Anecdotes of Robbers. - Crime. - Roads. - Agriculture. - Com.

merce of Cadiz. - We leave Cadiz............. 359

CHAPTER XIV.

CONDITION AND PROSPECTS OF SPAIN.

Rev. Mr. Rule ; bis History, Labors, Journal. - Sabbath at Cadiz. -

Journey to Seville. - Religious Condition of the City - Priest of St.

Gil. - Students. -- Infidelity. - Journey to Madrid. - Bishop of As.

torga. - Spanish Versions of the Bible. — Union of the Spanish and

English Churches. - Augustine Monk; his views of Spain. - Prohib-

ited Books. - Opposition to Papacy. - Prisoners. - Señor Potia. -

Friars. -- Public Morals and Religion. - Spanish Hymns. - Circula-

tion of the Bible in Spain : Missions there. - Feelings of the People.

- Facilities for Social Intercourse. - Liberty of the Press. - Reli-

gious Laws. — Bishop of Cadiz. - English Influence. - Versions of

the Scriptures. - Catechisms. - Infidel Books. — Catholic Works. -

Thoughts on Popery. - Education in Spain. - Emigrants. --Gover-

nors of Cadiz and Barcelona. — Archbishop of Toledo. - Spanish

Schools and Colleges. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384