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Spain. - Walls of Pæstum. – Tombs. – Temples.- Its present Slate.
– Reflections. – Volcanic Eruption. — Pompeii. — Amphitheatre. -
Herculaneum. - Skeletons in Pompeii. - Temple. – Houses. – Arti-
cles found there. — Morals of the Inhabitants. — Pickpockets. — Pup- ,
py Auction.- Vesuvius.- Ascent by Night. – A Warm Bed. - Scene
at Sunrise. - Eruptions. — Crater. - Manuscripts at Herculaneum. -
Skeletons. - Shops. - Eruptions. - Minerals.- Fertility. - Sorrento.
- Madam Starke. -- Ruins. - Villa of Vedius Pollio. -- Tasso.— The
Piano.- Mountain Scenery.-Amalfi.-Artists.- Mountains. - Snow-
pits. - Scenery. – A Singular Ride and a pleasant Acquaintance. . 110
CAPUA AND ROME.
A Sleeping City. - Leave Naples. -- Carriages. - Conductor. -- Aver-
sa. — Hospital. — Capua. — Amphitheatre. — The Liris. – Mola.
Cicero.- Robbers. — Countess of Fondi. - Terracina — Promontory
of Circe. - Pontine Marshes. — Appii Forum. - The Three Taverns.
- Velletri. - Lake Nemi. – Mount Albano. -- View of Rome. - Re-
flections. - Lake Albano. - American Coffee-house. -Campagna Ro
mana. - Malaria. — Aqueducts. - Walls of Rome. -- Feelings on en-
tering the City. - Gibbon. - Hotel. — Appearance of Rome. - The
Seven Hills. - Villas. -- Fountains. - Obelisks. — Triumphal Col-
umns.- Bridges.- Public Squares. - Palaces. — St. Peter's Church,
Vestibule, Interior, High Altar. - St. Peter's Chair. — The Dome. -
Reflections. - Brazen Ball. - The Ancient Church. - Public Deva
tions. — Vatican Palace. — Specimens of the Fine Arts – Classic
Interest. --Statuary.--Sculpture.-Vatican Library.- Popes of Rome;
their History, Claims, and Power; their Humiliation — Etiquette of
the Papal Court. - Interview with the Pope; his Dress, and Personal
Appearance. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
Interview with the Pope. - Conversation. - Homage. - Presents. -
Cardinal Fesch. — Paintings. – Mother of Napoleon. — Rival Artists.
- Ara Cæli. — Gibbon. - Public Amusements. - Pagan Festivals. -
Catholic Paganism. – Palatine Hill. - Amphitheatre. — The Colise-
um. -- Its Structure, Ornaments, and the Scenes enacted there. -
Gladiators.-- Wild Animals. -- Baths; their Origin and Object. - Baths
of Titus, of Diocletian, of Caracalla. — Public Morals. — Idolatry. -
The Jews. — Catholics.-Funerals.-'l'he Pope's Guard. - Cardinale.
- Popes. - Population of Rome. - The Clergy.- Debts and Income
of the Pope. - Police. - Index of Prohibited Books. — Prisons. -
Hospitals. — Beggars. - Funerals.-- Secret Societies. -- Insurgents.-
Robbers. - Military Escorts. - Education in Rome. --The Gregorian
College. - The University of Rome. ............ 178
SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.
Cruise at Sea. — Parties in Spain. - Friars. - Carlists. - The Queen's
Party. – Liberals. - Convents. - Archbishop of Santiago. — Riot at
Barcelona. - Juota of Extermination. — Archbishop of Tarragona.-
Friars in Majorca. - Storm at Sea, -- One of our Crew lost. — Poetry.
- Reflections. - An April Fool. - Portugal; her past History.-Don
Miguel. -- Don Pedro.- The Queen.- The Army. - National Income
and Debt. - Convents.—Monks and Friars.- The Jesuits. — Nuns.-
Colleges. -- Income of the Clergy, - Education. — The Navy. - Lis-
bon; its History and Population. -- Houses. - Doge. - Earthquake.-
Dress of Females.- Education.- Libraries. — Records of the Inquisi-
tion. - Rare Works. — Paintings. - English Chapel and Grave Yard.
- Fielding, - Dr. Doddridge. - Hospital. - Insane Patients. - Med-
ical School. -- Church of St. Roque.- Foundling Hospital. - Schools.
- Convent of Belem. - The Deaf and Dumb. - English Craft, and
Portuguese Folly. ... .... .... ... .... 216
CINTRA, MAFRA, AND MADRID.
Visit to Cintra in Autumn, - in the Spring. — Natural Scenery. -
Houses, Mountains. — The Sea.- Montserrat. - Palaces.- Mafra, its
Palace. - Convent.- Organs. — Musical Bells. - English Influence.
- Leave Lisbon for Madrid. - Smugglers. - Robbers. — Prejudice
against Foreigners. -- Royalists. — Volunteers. — Carlists.-Croakers.
- A Sail on the Tagus. — Our Lady of Attalia. — Porters. — A Cabin
Scene. -- Posadas. - Roads — Smugglers, their Mode of Life. - A
Night Scene. — Armour. — Sketches of my Companions. — Our Road.
- Pigs. — Turkeys. -- Cork Trees. — The Olive. – Fortresses. - Es-
tramoz.— Elvas. – Badajoz.- National Hatred.— Smuggling.-Music.
- Arrive at Badajoz. - Cavallo Blanco. -- The Landlady. -- Servant
Boy.- Recruits, mode of treating them.- Drilling. - Manuel Godoy.
- The Queen Regent. - Battle of Badajoz. -- The Cathedral. -
Paintings. - Leave Badajoz. - A Parting Scene. — My Fellow-Pas-
sengers. — The Mayoral. - Our Galera. - Postilions. - Merida. -
Truxillo. — Meeting of Friends. — A Murder. - Talavera, Battle
there.-- Spanish Ferocity. - Flocks of Sheep. - Sheepfolds. — Shep-
herds. — Christmas - Robbers. — Severe Cold. — Madrid..... 243
MADRID: THE ESCURIAL.
History of Madrid. - Its Gates. — Public Squares. — Fountains. - Gal-
legos. - Population. - Public Buildings. - Streets. - Lights. - Pase-
os. - The Prado. - Public Gardens. - Convents. -- Royal Palace. -
Library. -- Armory. - Military Museum. - Cabinet of Natural Sci-
ences. - Museum of the Fine Arts. — Royal Museum of Paintings. -
Prisons. — Holydays. — Beggars. - Confession. — General Hospital.
- Foundling Hospital. – Mrs. Mendoza. -- School for Female Or.
phans. - Private Charity. — Mount of Picty. — The Deaf and Dunib.
- The Blind. - Modes of Burial. - Friar's Robes. - The Escurial;
its History, Form, and Size. - Tomb of Spanish Kings. -- Paintings.
- Cambiaso. - Relics. - Dangerous Adventures. - The Cortes. -
The Pope. -- The Clergy. – Nunneries. -- Feelings of the People. -
Sermons. - Idolatry. - Catholics in the United States. - Public
Speaking. — The Spanish Language. — Don Quixote. — Party Strise.
- Exiles. — Houses. — Insurance. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276
ARANJUEZ, TOLEDO, AND CORDOVA.
Leave Madrid. — Diligences. — Aranjuez, – The Palace. - Gardens.-
The Town. - Grist-Mill. - Ride to Toledo. -- Reflections. — Histo-
ry. — Jews. - Moors. — The Inquisition. — Foundling Hospital. -
Celibacy of the Clergy. - Clerical Friends. — Toledo Blades. — Serv-
ing two Masters. - Watch of the Passion. — Cathedral. - Treasures.
- Mozarabic Liturgy. - Priests and Churches. - Walk to Ocania. –
Travelling Companions. — Robbery. -- Our Loss. - Relics. — Appear.
ance of our Party. - Pocket Testament. - Posada. — Affidavits. —
Robbers and Magistrates. - Poverty. — Pity from Beggars. - Change
of Climate. — Mountains. - Poetry. - Baylen. — Horses. -- Pelistes.
- Cordova. — Mahometanism. — Jews. -- Fanaticism. - Martyrs.--
Mosque of Cordova. -- Carmona. — Its Capture. ........ 319
SEVILLE, CADIZ, AND XEREZ.
History of Seville.- Muza. — Exilona. -Othman.- Alfonso the Sixth.
- Zaida.-Expulsion of the Moors. — Walls of the City. - Houses. -
School of the Noble Arts. - Spanish Painters. - Collections of Paint-
ings. - Convents. — Murillo. — Hospital. -- Population. - Longevity.
- The Golden Tower. -- Italica. — Roman Emperors. --The Alcazar.
– Hall of the Ambassadors. - Gardens. -- House of Pilate. - Cannon-
Foundery. — Tobacco Factory.- Female Operatives.- Cathedral. -
Giralda. — Paintings. - Columbian Library. - Clergy. - Society and
Manners. — Parting of Friends. — A Spanish Steamboat. - A Foolish
Priest. — Arrive at Cadiz. - Situation of the City. - Its Beauty. -
Population. - Public Morals. — Houses. -- St. Mary's. — Xerez. -
- Vintage. - Wine-Press. - Manufacture of Wine. - Temperance
Wines. — Agrass. — Wine-Vaults. - Wealth of the Wine-Merchants.
- Anecdotes of Robbers. - Crime. - Roads. - Agriculture. - Com.
merce of Cadiz. - We leave Cadiz............. 359
CONDITION AND PROSPECTS OF SPAIN.
Rev. Mr. Rule ; bis History, Labors, Journal. - Sabbath at Cadiz. -
Journey to Seville. - Religious Condition of the City - Priest of St.
Gil. - Students. -- Infidelity. - Journey to Madrid. - Bishop of As.
torga. - Spanish Versions of the Bible. — Union of the Spanish and
English Churches. - Augustine Monk; his views of Spain. - Prohib-
ited Books. - Opposition to Papacy. - Prisoners. - Señor Potia. -
Friars. -- Public Morals and Religion. - Spanish Hymns. - Circula-
tion of the Bible in Spain : Missions there. - Feelings of the People.
- Facilities for Social Intercourse. - Liberty of the Press. - Reli-
gious Laws. — Bishop of Cadiz. - English Influence. - Versions of
the Scriptures. - Catechisms. - Infidel Books. — Catholic Works. -
Thoughts on Popery. - Education in Spain. - Emigrants. --Gover-
nors of Cadiz and Barcelona. — Archbishop of Toledo. - Spanish
Schools and Colleges. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384