Spain. - Walls of Pæstum. — Tombs. — Temples. — Its present Slate.

– Reflections. – Volcanic Eruption. — Pompeii. — Amphitheatre. –

Herculaneum. - Skeletons in Pompeii. - Temple. – Houses. – Arti-

cles found there. – Morals of the Inhabitants. – Pickpockets. — Pup-

py Auction.- Vesuvius. — Ascent by Night. - A Warm Bed. - Scene

at Sunrise. — Eruptions. — Crater. – Manuscripts at Herculaneum. —

Skeletons. — Shops. - Eruptions. – Minerals. — Fertility. — Sorrento.

- Madam Starke. -- Ruins. – Villa of Vedius Pollio. — Tasso.— The

Piano. - Mountain Scenery. -Amalfi.—Artists.- Mountains. - Snow-

pits. – Scenery. – A Singular Ride and a pleasant Acquaintance. . 110

CHAPTER VII.

CAPUA AND ROME.

mana.

A Sleeping City. - Leave Naples. -- Carriages. — Conductor. -- Aver-

sa. — Hospital. - Capua. — Amphitheatre. — The Liris. - Mola.

Cicero.- Robbers. — Countess of Fondi. - Terracina - Promontory

of Circe. — Pontine Marshes. — Appii Forum. - The Three Taverns.

- Velletri. -- Lake Nemi. - Mount Albano. - View of Rome. - Re-

flections. - Lake Albano. - American Coffee house. — Campagna Ro

- Malaria. - Aqueducts. - Walls of Rome. -- Feelings on en-

tering the City. - Gibbon. - Hotel. - Appearance of Rome. - The

Seven Hills. – Villas. — Fountains. — Obelisks. — Triumphal Col-

- Bridges.— Public Squares. — Palaces. - St. Peter's Church,

Vestibule, Interior, High Altar. - St. Peter's Chair. - The Dome.

Reflections. - Brazen Ball. - The Ancient Church. - Public Deva

tions. – Vatican Palace. - Specimens of the Fine Arts - Classic

Interest. — Statuary. — Sculpture.- Vatican Library. — Popes of Rome;

their History, Claims, and Power; their Humiliation - Etiquette of

the Papal Court. - Interview with the Pope ; his Dress, and Personal

Appearance.

139

umns.

CHAPTER VIII.

ROME.

um.-

Interview with the Pope. Conversation. · Homage. Presents

Cardinal Fesch. - Paintings. — Mother of Napoleon. - Rival Artists.

Ara Cæli. — Gibbon. - Public Amusements. — Pagan Festivals. —

Catholic Paganism. – Palatine Hill. — Amphitheatre. The Colise-

Its Structure, Ornaments, and the Scenes enacted there. -

Gladiators.-Wild Animals.-- Baths ; their Origin and Object. - Baths

of Titus, of Diocletian, of Caracalla. - Public Morals. — Idolatry. -

The Jews.- Catholics. - Funerals. -'l'he Pope's Guard. - Cardinals.

- Popes. - Population of Rome. - The Clergy.- Debts and Income

of the Pope. - Police. — Index of Prohibited Books. — Prisons. -

Hospitals. — Beggars. — Funerals.--Secret Societies. -- Insurgents.-

Robbers. Military Escorts. — Education in Rome. - The Gregorian

College. - The University of Rome.

178

CHAPTER IX.

SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

Cruise at Sea. — Parties in Spain. - Friars. — Carlists. - The Queen's

Party. – Liberals. — Convents. — Archbishop of Santiago. — Riot at

Barcelona. — Juota of Extermination. — Archbishop of Tarragona. -

Friars in Majorca. - Storm at Sea. -- One of our Crew lost. — Poetry.

– Reflections. - An April Fool. — Portugal; her past History.--Don

Miguel. - Don Pedro.- The Queen. - The Army. - National Income

and Debt. - Convents. — Monks and Friars. - The Jesuits. - Nuns.-

Colleges. -- Income of the Clergy. - Education. — The Navy. - Lis.

bon; its History and Population. -Houses. — Doge. - Earthquake. -

Dress of Females. - Education.- Libraries. — Records of the Inquisi-

tion. - Rare Works. — Paintings. - English Chapel and Grave Yard.

– Fielding. — Dr. Doddridge. - Hospital. — Insane Patients. — Med-

ical School. --- Church of St. Roque.- Foundling Hospital. - Schools.

- Convent of Belem. - The Deaf and Dumb. - English Craft, and

Portuguese Folly.

. 216

CHAPTER X.

CINTRA, MAFRA, AND MADRID.

Visit to Cintra in Autumn, - in the Spring. - Natural Scenery.-

Houses, Mountains. — The Sea.- Montserrat. — Palaces.- Mafra, its

Palace. - Convent. — Organs. — Musical Bells. — English Influence.

- Leave Lisbon for Madrid. - Smugglers. - Robbers. — Prejudice

against Foreigners. - Royalists. — Volunteers. - Carlists.-Croakers.

- A Sail on the Tagus. — Our Lady of Attalia. — Porters. A Cabin

Scene. -- Posadas. — Roads — Smugglers, their Mode of Life. - A

Night Scene. — Armour. — Sketches of my Companions. - Our Road.

- Pigs. – Turkeys. -- Cork Trees. — The Olive. - Fortresses. — Es-

tramoz.- Elvas. – Badajoz.- National Hatred.—Smuggling.-Music.

- Arrive at Badajoz. - Cavallo Blanco. -- The Landlady. -- Servant

Boy. — Recruits, mode of treating them.- Drilling. - Manuel Godoy.

The Queen Regent. - Battle of Badajoz. -- The Cathedral. -

Paintings. — Leave Badajoz. – A Parting Scene. — My Fellow-Pas-

sengers. - The Mayoral. - Our Galera. - Postilions. — Merida. –

Truxillo. Meeting of Friends. - A Murder. Talavera, Battle

there. -- Spanish Ferocity. — Flocks of Sheep. - Sheepfolds. - Shep-

herds. — Christmas. — Robbers. — Severe Cold. — Madrid.

243

CHAPTER XI.

MADRID: THE ESCURIAL.

History of Madrid. - Its Gates. Public Squares. — Fountains. - Gal-

legos. - Population. - Public Buildings. - Streets. - Lights. - Pase-

08. — The Prado. -- Public Gardens. - Convents. --- Royal Palace. –

Library. — Armory. - Military Museum. - Cabinet of Natural Sci-

ences. - Museum of the Fine Arts. — Royal Museum of Paintings.

Prisons. — Holydays. — Beggars. - Confession. - General Hospital.

- Foundling Hospital. – Mrs. Mendoza. -- School for Female Or.

phans. - Private Charity. - Mount of Picty. - The Deaf and Dunb.

The Blind. - Modes of Burial. - Friar's Robes. - The Escurial;

its History, Form, and Size. - Tomb of Spanish Kings. -- Paintings.

Cambiaso. - Relics. - Dangerous Adventures. - The Cortes.

The Pope. -- The Clergy. – Nunneries. -- Feelings of the People.

Sermons. Idolatry. Catholics in the United States. Public

Speaking. — The Spanish Language. — Don Quixote. — Party Strise.

- Exiles. - Houses. — Insurance.

. 276

CHAPTER XII.

ARANJUEZ, TOLEDO, AND CORDOVA.

Leave Madrid. — Diligences. — Aranjuez. – The Palace. - Gardens.-

The Town. - Grist-Mill. -- Ride to Toledo. -- Reflections. – Histo

ry. - Jews. - Moors. — The fnquisition. — Foundling Hospital. -

Celibacy of the Clergy. - Clerical Friends. — Toledo Blades. — Serv.

ing two Masters. - Watch of the Passion. - Cathedral. - Treasures.

- Mozarabic Liturgy. - Priests and Churches. — Walk to Ocania. -

Travelling Companions.- Robbery. -- Our Loss. — Relics. — Appear-

ance of our Party. - Pocket Testament. — Posada. Affidavits.

Robbers and Magistrates.- Poverty. — Pity from Beggars. - Change

of Climate. - Mountains. - Poetry. - Baylen. — Horses. - Pelistes.

- Cordova. — Mahometanism. — Jews. - Fanaticism. - Martyrs.-

Mosque of Cordova.- Carmona. - Its Capture.

319

1

CHAPTER XIII.

SEVILLE, CADIZ, AND XEREZ.

History of Seville. — Muza. - Exilona. — Othman. Alfonso the Sixth.

- Zaida. — Expulsion of the Moors. — Walls of the City. - Houses. -

School of the Noble Arts. - Spanish Painters. - Collections of Paint-

ings. - Convents. — Murillo. — Hospital. -- Population. - Longevity.

- The Golden Tower. -- Italica. - Roman Emperors. -- The Alcazar.

- Hall of the Ambassadors. - Gardens. -- House of Pilate.-Cannon-

Foundery. - Tobacco Factory.- Female Operatives. - Cathedral. –

Giralda. — Paintings. — Columbian Library. — Clergy. - Society and

Manners. - Parting of Friends. — A Spanish Steamboat. — A Foolish

Priest. — Arrive at Cadiz. Situation of the City. - Its Beauty. -

Population. — Public Morals. Houses. St. Mary's. — Xerez. -

- Vintage. Wine-Press. — Manufacture of Wine. — Temperance

Wines. — Agrass. — Wine-Vaults. - Wealth of the Wine-Merchants.

- Anecdotes of Robbers. — Crime. - Roads. — Agriculture. — Com-

merce of Cadiz. - We leave Cadiz.

359

CHAPTER XIV.

CONDITION AND PROSPECTS OF SPAIN.

Rev. Mr. Rule; his History, Labors, Journal. - Sabbath at Cadiz. -

Journey to Seville. — Religious Condition of the City – Priest of St.

Gil. -

: - Students. -- Infidelity. - Journey to Madrid. - Bishop of As-

torga. - Spanish Versions of the Bible. - Union of the Spanish and

English Churches. - Augustine Monk; his views of Spain. - Prohib-

ited Books. - Opposition to Papacy. - Prisoners. — Señor Potia. -

Friars. - Public Morals and Religion. - Spanish Hymns. — Circula-

tion of the Bible in Spain : Missions there. – Feelings of the People.

- Facilities for Social Intercourse. - Liberty of the Press. - Reli-

gious Laws. – Bishop of Cadiz. - English Influence. — Versions of

the Scriptures. - Catechisms. Infidel Books. – Catholic Works.

Thoughts on Popery. — Education in Spain. - Emigrants. - Gover-

nors of Cadiz and Barcelona. — Archbishop of Toledo. - Spanish

Schools and Colleges.

384

-