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Spain.-Walls of Pæstum. -Tombs.-Temples. Its present State.
- Reflections. Volcanic Eruption. Pompeii. - Amphitheatre.—
Herculaneum. Skeletons in Pompeii. - Temple. — Houses. — Arti-
cles found there. Morals of the Inhabitants. Pickpockets. - Pup-
py Auction.-Vesuvius.-Ascent by Night. - A Warm Bed. - Scene
at Sunrise. Eruptions. - Crater. - Manuscripts at Herculaneum. -
Skeletons. Shops. Eruptions. - Minerals.- Fertility.-Sorrento.
- Madam Starke. Ruins.-Villa of Vedius Pollio. - Tasso.-The
Piano.-Mountain Scenery.-Amalfi.-Artists.- Mountains. - Snow-
pits. Scenery. — A Singular Ride and a pleasant Acquaintance.
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CHAPTER VII.
CAPUA AND ROME.
A Sleeping City. - Leave Naples. - Carriages.
sa.-
- Hospital. Capua. - Amphitheatre. The Liris. - Mola. -
Cicero.- Robbers. Countess of Fondi. - Terracina - Promontory
of Circe. Pontine Marshes. - Appii Forum. -The Three Taverns.
-Velletri. Lake Nemi. Mount Albano. View of Rome. Re-
flections.Lake Albano. American Coffee-house.-Campagna Ro-
mana.- - Malaria. - Aqueducts. - Walls of Rome.-Feelings on en-
tering the City. - Gibbon.- - Hotel. - Appearance of Rome. — The
Seven Hills. - Villas. Fountains. Obelisks.Triumphal Col-
umns.- -Bridges.- Public Squares.- Palaces. - St. Peter's Church;
Vestibule, Interior, High Altar. St. Peter's Chair. - The Dome.-
Reflections. Brazen Ball.-The Ancient Church. - Public Devo-
tions. - Vatican Palace. Specimens of the Fine Arts - Classic
Interest. Statuary.-Sculpture.-Vatican Library. - Popes of Rome;
their History, Claims, and Power; their Humiliation - Etiquette of
the Papal Court. - Interview with the Pope; his Dress, and Personal
Appearance.
Cardinal Fesch. - Paintings. Mother of Napoleon. - Rival Artists.
Ara Cœli. Gibbon. - Public Amusements. Pagan Festivals. —
Catholic Paganism. - Palatine Hill. Amphitheatre. The Colise-
um. Its Structure, Ornaments, and the Scenes enacted there.-
Gladiators.-Wild Animals. -- Baths; their Origin and Object.- Baths
of Titus, of Diocletian, of Caracalla. - Public Morals. — Idolatry. —
The Jews.-Catholics.-Funerals.-'The Pope's Guard.-Cardinals.
-Popes. Population of Rome. - The Clergy.- Debts and Income
of the Pope. Police. - Index of Prohibited Books. - Prisons. —
139
Robbers.
Hospitals. Beggars. - Funerals. --Secret Societies.
Military Escorts. - Education in Rome. -
College. The University of Rome.
Insurgents.-
-The Gregorian
178
CHAPTER IX.
SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.
Cruise at Sea.- Parties in Spain. - Friars.
Carlists.-The Queen's
Party. Liberals. Convents. Archbishop of Santiago. - Riot at
Barcelona. Junta of Extermination. - Archbishop of Tarragona. -
Friars in Majorca. - Storm at Sea. -- One of our Crew lost.- Poetry.
-Reflections.-An April Fool.-Portugal; her past History. - Don
Miguel. Don Pedro.-The Queen.-The Army. -National Income
- Convents.-Monks and Friars.-The Jesuits.—)
-Nuns.-
Income of the Clergy. Education.-The Navy. - Lis-
--
and Debt.
Colleges.
bon;
its History and Population. — Houses. - Dogs. - Earthquake.-
Dress of Females.-Education.-Libraries.-Records of the Inquisi-
tion. Rare Works. - Paintings. - English Chapel and Grave Yard.
- Fielding. Dr. Doddridge. — Hospital. Insane Patients. - Med-
ical School.-Church of St. Roque.-Foundling Hospital.-Schools.
- Convent of Belem.-The Deaf and Dumb.- English Craft, and
Portuguese Folly.
Visit to Cintra in Autumn, in the Spring. - Natural Scenery.
Houses, Mountains.-The Sea.-Montserrat.-Palaces.-Mafra, its
Palace. Convent.Organs. - Musical Bells. - English Influence.
-Leave Lisbon for Madrid. - Smugglers. - Robbers. Prejudice
against Foreigners. - Royalists. - Volunteers. Carlists.-Croakers.
- A Sail on the Tagus. - Our Lady of Attalia. - Porters. - A Cabin
Scene. Posadas. Roads Smugglers, their Mode of Life. — A
Night Scene.- Armour. Sketches of my Companions. - Our Road.
- Pigs. Turkeys. -- Cork Trees. - The Olive. - Fortresses.
tramoz.-Elvas. - Badajoz.- National Hatred.-Smuggling.-Music.
Arrive at Badajoz.-Cavallo Blanco. - The Landlady. -- Servant
Boy. Recruits, mode of treating them.-Drilling. -Manuel Godoy.
-The Queen Regent. - Battle of Badajoz. The Cathedral.-
Paintings. Leave Badajoz. — A Parting Scene. - My Fellow-Pas-
sengers. - The Mayoral. - Our Galera.
Postilions. - Merida. -
Truxillo.
A Murder. - Talavera, Battle
there. Spanish Ferocity. - Flocks of Sheep. - Sheepfolds. Shep-
Christmas- Robbers. Severe Cold.-Madrid.
herds.
243
08.-
CHAPTER XI.
MADRID: THE ESCURIAL.
History of Madrid. - Its Gates. - Public Squares. - Fountains. - Gal-
legos. Population. - Public Buildings. Streets. Lights. - Pase-
-The Prado. - Public Gardens. Convents. Royal Palace. —
Library. Armory.- Military Museum. -Cabinet of Natural Sci-
ences. Museum of the Fine Arts. Royal Museum of Paintings.
Prisons. Holydays. — Beggars. - Confession. -General Hospital.
-Foundling Hospital. Mrs. Mendoza. - School for Female Or-
Mount of Piety. - The Deaf and Dunıb.
-The Blind. Modes of Burial. - Friar's Robes.-The Escurial;
its History, Form, and Size. -Tomb of Spanish Kings. - Paintings.
Cambiaso. - Relics. Dangerous Adventures.- The Cortes.
The Pope.
The Clergy. - Nunneries. -- Feelings of the People.
Sermons. Idolatry. - Catholics in the United States.
Speaking. The Spanish Language. - Don Quixote. - Party Strife.
- Exiles. Houses. - Insurance.
phans. Private Charity.
1
Aranjuez.-The Palace. - Gardens.-
The Town. Grist-Mill. Ride to Toledo. - Reflections. — Histo-
ry.
Jews. Moors. - The Inquisition. Foundling Hospital. -
Celibacy of the Clergy. - Clerical Friends.—Toledo Blades. - Serv-
ing two Masters. Watch of the Passion. - Cathedral. Treasures.
Mozarabic Liturgy. - Priests and Churches. - Walk to Ocania. -
Travelling Companions. - Robbery. Our Loss. -Relics. - Appear-
ance of our Party.. Pocket Testament.. - Posada.. Affidavits.
Robbers and Magistrates. - Poverty. - Pity from Beggars.- Change
of Climate. Mountains. - Poetry. - Baylen. - Horses. - Pelistes.
- Cordova. — Mahometanism. Jews. Fanaticism..
Mosque of Cordova.— Carmona. - Its Capture. .
History of Seville. - Muza. - Exilona. -Othman. Alfonso the Sixth.
-Zaida.-Expulsion of the Moors. - Walls of the City. - Houses.
School of the Noble Arts. Spanish Painters. -Collections of Paint-
ings.Convents. Murillo. - Hospital. -- Population. -
-The Golden Tower. - Italica. -Roman Emperors.-The Alcazar.
- Hall of the Ambassadors. - Gardens. .-- House of Pilate.-Cannon-
Foundery. -Tobacco Factory.- Female Operatives.- Cathedral. —
Giralda. Paintings. - Columbian Library. Clergy. Society and
Manners. Parting of Friends. A Spanish Steamboat. — A Foolish
Priest. Arrive at Cadiz.-Situation of the City.-Its Beauty. -
Population. Public Morals. - Houses. St. Mary's. - Xerez. —
Manufacture of Wine. Temperance
-Vintage. — Wine-Press.
Wine-Vaults.- Wealth of the Wine-Merchants.
Wines. Agrass. ·
Anecdotes of Robbers. Crime.
merce of Cadiz.- We leave Cadiz.
Roads. — Agriculture. -Com-
CHAPTER XIV.
CONDITION AND PROSPECTS OF SPAIN.
Rev. Mr. Rule; his History, Labors, Journal. Sabbath at Cadiz.
Journey to Seville. - Religious Condition of the City-Priest of St.
Gil.- - Students. -- Infidelity. Journey to Madrid. - Bishop of As-
torga. Spanish Versions of the Bible. - Union of the Spanish and
English Churches. Augustine Monk; his Views of Spain. - Prohib-
ited Books. Opposition to Papacy. - Prisoners. - Señor Potia.-
Friars. Public Morals and Religion.-Spanish Hymns.
Circula-
tion of the Bible in Spain: Missions there. Feelings of the People.
-Facilities for Social Intercourse. - Liberty of the Press. -Reli-
gious Laws. Bishop of Cadiz. - English Influence. Versions of
the Scriptures.- Catechisms. Infidel Books.-Catholic Works. —
Thoughts on Popery. - Education in Spain. - Emigrants. - Gover-
nors of Cadiz and Barcelona.- Archbishop of Toledo. - Spanish
Schools and Colleges.
359
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