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This machine contained ten inside passengers-the body of the coach being fitted up with three seats, each for three persons, and one small seat, which occupied the place of what should have been one of the doors. The happy possessor of the latter seat, is thus elevated like the chairman of the company. The cabriolet attached in front contained three. In some Diligences there is also a cabriolet behind. The driver of the machine which we entered at Noyons, did not, as usual, ride upon one of the wheel horses, but sat upon the roof of the coach. In general the driver rides on the horse, and carries a long whip with which he flagellates the three other horses who are harnessed abreast before him! The only part of the harness that is of rope, are the traces. Mr. G. and I were obliged to put up with the fore-cabriolet, where we slept a little during the night. The next morning-Saturday 21st-We arrived at

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By eight o'clock. The Royal Chateau of Compeigne, situated by the river side, presented a beautiful appearance on our left as we approached the town. Here we experienced some difficulty as to our places, the Diligence being quite full. By the assistance of a little declamation from our French fellow-traveller, and the production of our receipt, we succeeded in obtaining a cabriolet to convey us to SENLIS. After breakfasting at Compeigne, we set out and reached


By a quarter to twelve o'clock and there dined—a small post town of no particular celebrity-had another voiture which conveyed us, together with a German musician and his son, through Louvres to PARIS, where we arrived by half past seven o'clock. A fiacre conveyed Mr. B., Mr. G., and myself, with the luggage, to the Hotel de Bresil, Rue Notre Dame des Victoires, where we had tea and went to bed extremely fatigued.





The gale has come, at once the fleecy haze
Floats up, then stands a purple canopy
Shading THE IMPERIAL CITY from the blaze:

Glorious the vision! Tower and Temple lie
Beneath the morn, like waves of ivory

With many an azure streak and gush of green,
As grove and garden on the dazzled eye,

Rise in successive beauty, and between
Flows into sudden light the long slow serpent SEINE!
Morning View of PARIS from Mont-martre.

Sunday, September 22, 1816.

I WAS waked in the morning of my first day at PARIS by the chambermaid, who, without any ceremony, had approached my bed-side to inquire whether she should take down my clothes to be dusted, and before I was thoroughly aware of her meaning she


had carried off my coat, containing my pocket-book, cash, &c. They were, however, returned in a short time without any loss, a proof no less of her attention than of her honesty! After breakfast walked with Mr. B. to the Palais Royal, the Place de Carousel, Garden of the Tuilleries, &c., dined at a restaurateur's near the hotel, where we had also our coffee-did not afterwards go out, for it rained all the evening.

Monday 23d.-It rained very hard in the morning, but cleared up in the after-part of the day, when we sallied forth, walked down the Rue St. Martin, by Notre Dame, the Pantheon, round by the Odeon, through the Palais Royal to the restaurateur's in the Rue des Victoires. After dinner we walked in the Palais Royal, then returned to the hotel and took our coffee.


On traversing the streets of PARIS, we generally found them mean, irregular and dirty; very few shops comparable to those in London. No foot-way for pedestrians—a large gutter waters the middle of most of the streets, the numerous carriages serving to diffuse its sable contents over any unfortunate foot passenger who may be near! The method of lighting the streets has a most slovenly appearance. A strong rope is stretched across from one house to another opposite, and by means of pulleys at the extremity and middle of this rope, the lamp, which is attached to a smaller auxiliary cord, is raised or lowered. The end of the smaller rope is generally conveyed through a pipe fixed against the wall into a small box or cup

527 board, of which the lamplighter keeps the key. In open places the whole apparatus is arranged on single lamp irons, which, it may be easily conceived, have every requisite for the horrible purpose to which they were applied during the Revolution!

The finest spot in Paris appears to me to be the Place Louis XV. On one side are seen the Tuilleries at the extremity of the gardens; directly opposite is the entrance to the Champs Elysées. A third side presents a view of the Pont Louis XVI., terminated by the Chamber of Deputies, with its fine Doric front. And the remaining side is ornamented with the noble buildings formerly known by the name of Garde Meuble, from which a handsome street strikes off to an unfinished edifice, that is to be the Church de la Madelaine.


The PALAIS ROYAL is an immense pile of buildings surrounding three courts; the first of which serves merely to adorn the entrance; the second is used as a temporary Exchange; and the third, which is the principal one, is the part devoted to trade and amusement, and is that which has rendered the Palais so notorious! This last court is a large parallelogram, adorned with several rows of trees, and is to have a basin of water in the centre. There are piazzas all round, under which are the small shops of jewellers, pastry-cooks, &c., coffee-houses and eatinghouses, and above these are the gaming-rooms, authorized by government! The subterranean apartments are dedicated to every kind of vice. London

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