of Tiberio d'Assisi, representing the Madonna and Child throned, with floating angels holding a crown, between S. Antonio, S. Girolamo, S. Francis, and S. Agnese.

S. Damiano was suppressed and its monks most harshly treated by the Sardinian Government. But the convent, at once a shrine of Italian history and religion, has been since purchased by an English Roman Catholic peer, so that its preservation-without change- may be hoped for.

3. Turning to the left near S. Maria degli Angeli, less than two miles brings us to Rio Torto, where was the first convent of S. Francis, being in fact at first only a thatched hovel where he stayed with his companions on their first return from Innocent III. at Rome, the Porziuncula being too small. The great church raised over his cell was thrown down only a few years ago by earthquake, and the present edifice is quite modern. However, it encloses the cell, with the bed of the saint. Close by, two of his companions, Fra Egidio and Fra Corrado della Marca, were buried. The convent was given to S. Francis by the Benedictine monks on Monte Subasio, of whose convent nothing now exists, but a quit rent was always paid for this by the Franciscans, in the shape of a basket of the fish called loschi, sent over the hills to the far-away convent of Subiaco. The little Chapel of the Maddalena, which is passed between Rio Torto and the Angeli, is of the time of S. Francis.

And now we must return to the station and leave behind the mediaeval world in which we have been living. Yet the very dusty way itself which leads us there is that along which S. Francis went singing with Brother Egidio, and admonished people by the way, saying simply-‘O love and serve God, and repent perfectly of your sins,' while Egidio added with childlike simplicity-Do what my spiritual father says to you, for he always says what is best.' It was on this road that, as S. Francis was being carried home in a litter in his last illness, he bade the bearers to stop,

and said to his brethren, 'Vedete, figli miei, never give up this place. Wheresoever you go, return always to this as your home, for this is the holy house of God.'1 And as, for the last time, we pass the Convent of the Angeli we must remember that there, having touchingly added his welcome to 'Sister Death,'2 to his 'Song of all Creatures,' the great founder lay upon his deathbed, surrounded by the brethren, with his faithful friend Giacobba dei Settisoli. As the supreme moment approached, he ordered the beginning of the 13th chapter of S. John to be read to him; then, in broken accents, he himself repeated the 142nd Psalm —and finally, as his glazing eyes told that 'Sister Death' was really come, passed away, saying to his weeping beloved ones--' Farewell, my children, for now I go to God, to whom I commend you all,' and, in the words of one of his biographers, was absorbed into the abyss of the light of God.' 'O Francis, never may thy sainted name

6

Be thought or written save with soul aflame,
Nor spcken openly nor breathed apart
Without a stir or swelling of the heart :—
O mate of Poverty! O pearl unpriced !
O co-espoused, co-transforate with Christ.'

W. H. Myers.

1 It is the recollection of these almost last words of S. Francis which has made the spoliation of Assisi so peculiarly bitter to his Order, to the Pope, and to the whole Catholic Church.

2' Laudato sia mio Signore per suor nostra morte corporale:

Da la quale nullo homo vivente puo scapare.

Guai a quelli che more in peccato mortale !

Beati quelli che se trovano nella tua sanctissima voluntate
Che la morte secunda non li potra far male.'

CHAPTER XXVII.

CITTA DI CASTELLO AND BORGO SAN SEPOLCRO.

A decent little omnibus leaves the office in the Corso at Perugia every morning at 5 A. M. for Citta di Castello, performing the journey of 33 m. in 6 hours. But it sets out on its return journey at 3 A. M., so that if Citta di Castello is taken as an excursion from Perugia, it will be found much more convenient to engage a carriage for the two days, price 20 frs.

The Locanda della Cantoniera (Valino) at Citta di Castello is a very good specimen of a small Italian inn, exceedingly clean and moderate in charges.

There is no diligence between Citta di Castello and Borgo San Sepolcro a carriage with 1 horse costs 7 frs.

A carriage may be taken from Borgo to Arezzo, or vice versâ, for 17 frs., or Borgo may be easily visited in the day from Arezzo.

The Albergo Fiorentino, sometimes called Locanda di Venezia, at Borgo San Sepolcro, is very clean and comfortable for a country inn, and an artist might spend some time there pleasantly and most economically. This tour will not be worth while except to those who are really interested in Umbrian art, for the country is for the most part uninteresting and the towns are unpicturesque.

TERY beautiful is the rapid descent from Perugia,

VERY

At

through the richly cultivated fields, bright in spring with gladiolus and bearded hyacinths, and with glorious views of the old city rising from its rocky platform. Ponte Felcino (4 m.) the road crosses the Tiber by a very lofty bridge something like the Ponte alla Maddalena near Lucca. At 21 m. is Fratta, a small town with an octagonal church and an old castle. Hence the road constantly ascends.

The Coronation of the Virgin by Pinturicchio, now in the Vatican, came from Fratta.

MONTE CORONA, CITTA DI CASTELLO. 287

(Two miles from Fratta, on a hill top, is the fine old Camaldolese monastery of Monte Corona. Its church was founded by S. Romualdo himself, c. 1008, and retains a crypt of the 11th century. There were sixteen hermitages attached to the convent, after the fashion of the Eremo at Camaldoli. Under the recent spoliation, the monks at Monte Corona were treated with exceptional cruelty, because they appealed, out of regard for their long exercised charities, to be allowed to end their days in its walls: they have been not only expelled, but reduced to absolute beggary ; only one lay brother being allowed to remain for the sale of medicines in the farmacia.

A road leads from Fratta to Gubbio by the fine old castle of Civitella Raniari and the deserted convent of Campo Reggiano.)

Citta di Castello (Inn, La Cannoniera, excellent) occupies the site of Tifernum Tiberinum, of which Pliny the younger was chosen as patron while still a boy. In the 15th century it was ruled by the great house of the Vitelli, of whom Vitellozzo Vitelli was one of the earliest patrons of Raffaelle. Many of his great early works were painted here and were intended for the churches of this little town. The Sposalizio, now at Milan, belonged to the church of S. Francesco; the Coronation of S. Nicholas of Tolentino hung in S. Agostino till it was sold to Pius VI.; the Crucifixion, which Lord Dudley has now, was sold from the Gavari Chapel in S. Domenico in 1809; the Coronation of the Virgin in the Vatican, and the Adoration of the Magi, now at Berlin, were also painted at Citta di Castello.

In the centre of the dull town is the Cathedral of S. Florida, consecrated in 1012, but twice rebuilt. Its only ancient feature is its round campanile, which will recall those of Ravenna. The north door is an admirable specimen of 15th century work. Between the twisted pillars are two reliefs, with small figures or groups from Scriptural or saintly subjects, introduced between the

beautifully sculptured tendrils and fruit of a vine; below are figures of Mercy and Justice. Entering by the west door, we may notice :—

Right, First Chapel. Bernardino Gaglardi. The Martyrdom of S. Crescentian.

4th Chapel (of the Sacrament). Rosso Fiorentino. The Transfiguration.

5th Chapel. Facetti. The Guardian Angel, with the Madonna in glory above; on the left, S. Michael; on the right, S. Raphael and Tobias. The scenes from the story of Tobias at the sides of the chapel are by Virgilio Ducci.

6th Chapel. Squazzino.

Frescoes.

The Camera della Canonica contains a beautiful altar front, given by Pope Coelestine II., who was a native of the town. It is a marvellous specimen of goldsmith's work, decorated with scenes from the life of the Saviour.

The Cupola is painted by Marco Benefial.

The Stalls are of rich intarsiatura work, and are from the designs of Raffaellino da Colle.

A little behind the cathedral is the Via del Ospedale, containing the Hospital, whose chapel has a fine picture of the Pentecost by Santi di Tito. Close to this is the ugly Gothic Church of S. Domenico, which contains :—

Right. Ist Altar. Santi di Tito. Marriage of S. Catherine.

2nd Altar. Gregorio Pagani. Madonna and Child with saints. An interesting picture, said to have been presented in consequence of a vow of the citizen Antonio Corvini, who was serving under the Duke of Burgundy, and promised it to atone for having injured an image of the Virgin over the gate of some town.

5th Altar. Copy of the Crucifixion of Raffaelle, which formerly hung here, now the property of Lord Dudley.

The High Altar covers the remains of the Beata Margherita, a Dominican nun. Behind are right, S. Sebastian, 1524, and the Annunciation, by Francesco di Castello, 1524; left, a Madonna of the 14th century.

Left of High Altar (the Brozzi Altar). Luca Signorelli, 1498. Martyrdom of S. Sebastian.

Close by is the little Church of S. Caterina, which contains:

Right. Andrea Carlone. S. Francesco di Paola.

Left. Squazzino. Crucifixion.

The frescoes of the Story of S. Catherine are by Cav. Borghese.