The Three-Piece Suit and Modern Masculinity: England, 1550–1850
University of California Press, 2002年5月21日 - 313 頁
In 1666, King Charles II felt it necessary to reform Englishmen's dress by introducing a fashion that developed into the three-piece suit. We learn what inspired this royal revolution in masculine attire--and the reasons for its remarkable longevity--in David Kuchta's engaging and handsomely illustrated account. Between 1550 and 1850, Kuchta says, English upper- and middle-class men understood their authority to be based in part upon the display of masculine character: how they presented themselves in public and demonstrated their masculinity helped define their political legitimacy, moral authority, and economic utility. Much has been written about the ways political culture, religion, and economic theory helped shape ideals and practices of masculinity. Kuchta allows us to see the process working in reverse, in that masculine manners and habits of consumption in a patriarchal society contributed actively to people's understanding of what held England together.
Kuchta shows not only how the ideology of modern English masculinity was a self-consciously political and public creation but also how such explicitly political decisions and values became internalized, personalized, and naturalized into everyday manners and habits.
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aesthetic Anglican apparel argued aristocratic Bernard Mandeville Burke Burke’s Cambridge University Press capital century Character Charles clothing Cobbett conspicuous consumption consumer Corn Laws corruption court culture courtier critics critique crown defenders deﬁned deﬁnition Discourse discussion display dress early economists Edmund Edmund Burke effeminacy effeminate eighteenth eighteenth-century elite England English Radicalism Essay Evelyn fashion ﬁgure ﬁne ﬁrst free trade French Revolution frugality gender Gentleman George Glorious Revolution habits History ideology industry inﬂuence James John John Evelyn King language London luxury and effeminacy Mandeville manly manners masculine renunciation masculinist men’s mercantilist merchant middle-class Modern modesty moral nation natural nobility old sartorial regime one’s Oxford Parliament political culture Political Economy production Puritans Reﬂections reform reprint Richard seventeenth seventeenth-century signiﬁed silk Smith social Society speciﬁcally splendor sumptuary law taste Theory Thomas three-piece suit tion Tory upstarts vest vestments controversy virtue wealth Whig William William Cobbett William Hazlitt women York