The Three-Piece Suit and Modern Masculinity: England, 1550–1850
University of California Press, 2002年5月21日 - 313 頁
In 1666, King Charles II felt it necessary to reform Englishmen's dress by introducing a fashion that developed into the three-piece suit. We learn what inspired this royal revolution in masculine attire--and the reasons for its remarkable longevity--in David Kuchta's engaging and handsomely illustrated account. Between 1550 and 1850, Kuchta says, English upper- and middle-class men understood their authority to be based in part upon the display of masculine character: how they presented themselves in public and demonstrated their masculinity helped define their political legitimacy, moral authority, and economic utility. Much has been written about the ways political culture, religion, and economic theory helped shape ideals and practices of masculinity. Kuchta allows us to see the process working in reverse, in that masculine manners and habits of consumption in a patriarchal society contributed actively to people's understanding of what held England together.
Kuchta shows not only how the ideology of modern English masculinity was a self-consciously political and public creation but also how such explicitly political decisions and values became internalized, personalized, and naturalized into everyday manners and habits.
讀者評論 - 撰寫評論
aesthetic apparel argued argument aristocratic Burke called Cambridge capital century Character Charles Civil claim clothing conspicuous consumption consumer consumption court critics critique crown defenders deﬁned deﬁnition Discourse discussion display dress early economic effeminacy effeminate eighteenth eighteenth-century England English Essay example fashion female France Free Trade French gender Gentleman George habits Henry History ideals ideas ideology important industry interests James John King language late Laws Letters linked London luxury manly manners masculinity means men’s mercantilist merchant merely middle middle-class modesty moral natural noted Observations old sartorial regime opposition Origins Oxford Parliament political culture Political Economy practices Present Principles production promoting Puritans radicals reform reprint Revolution Richard Right Robert signs Smith social Society suit sumptuary taste Theory things Thomas Thought tion Tory University Press values vice virtue wealth Whig women writers wrote York Young