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rt. ARNHEM. (Route 6.)

rt. 3 m. above Arnhem the IJssel (pron. Eyssel) branches off from the Rhine, and flows into the Zuider Zee at Kampen. It is also navigated by steam. (Rte. 12.)

1. Huissen. "Near Tollhuis the army of Louis XIV. crossed the Rhine, 1672, an exploit much vaunted by the French poets (Boileau, &c.) and historians of the time, though little risk was incurred but that of drowning, as there were very few, if any, Dutch troops immediately on the spot to oppose the passage." J. W. C. The river was then much reduced by the drought of summer, though not entirely fordable, and many regiments had to swim across. The Great Condé was here wounded in the wrist, and his nephew was killed by his side.

rt. Pannerden. Here the Waal first branches out from the main trunk of the Rhine, which above this spot flows in one undivided stream. (See p. 81.) The voyage to Cologne is described in Rte. 34.

ROUTE 12.

ARNHEM TO KAMPEN, BY THE IJSSEL BRANCH OF THE RHINE, THROUGH ZUTPHEN AND DEVENTER.

Steamers 3 times a-week along the IJssel, from Arnhem to Kampen. The voyage even in descending takes up 1 day.

Diligences go several times a-day by Zutphen to Deventer, in 5 hrs.

The steamer ascends the Rhine about 2 m. to reach the mouth of the IJssel. This was originally a canal formed by Drusus, son-in-law of Augustus (Fossa Drusiana), to join the old IJssel with the Rhine.

The pretty village of Velp (p. 71) is seen among the trees.

rt. Doesburg (Inn: Hof Geldria), a fortified town at the confluence of the old and new IJssel, 2540 Inhab., was taken from the Spaniards and pillaged, 1585, by the English, under the Earl of Leicester.

1. Dieren. Near this is the curious old moated house of Middaghten.

rt. Zutphen (Inns: Keizerskroon;

Zwaan), a strong fortress and ancient grand-looking town, 10,500 Inhab., at the junction of the Berckel with the IJssel.

The chief Protestant Church (of St. Walburga) is a fine Gothic building (1105); its great tower has been rebuilt since 1600, when the original one was destroyed by lightning. Within are monuments of the Counts of Zutphen, over one of which is hung a Gothic chandelier of iron gilt, and a modern monument to the family Van Heekeren. There is a curious Gothic font of copper, and the bas-reliefs on the pulpit merit notice. In the church is a library of old books, many of them fastened to the shelves by chains.

The Roman Catholics and the Anabaptists have churches here.

The Chimes are placed in the tower of the Weighing House: there is another large square tower called Drogenass.

It was on the battle-field of Warnsfeld, a little to the E. of Zutphen, that the gallant Sir Philip Sidney received his death-wound, Sept. 22, 1586, after an action in which the English had signally defeated the veteran Spaniards under the Marquess of Guasto. Stretched on the ground, bleeding and parched with thirst, the English hero displayed the well-known instance of humanity, in desiring that the cup of water intended for him should be given to the dying soldier at his side.

rt. Deventer. In Rte. 8.

rt. Katerveer. Coaches go hence to Zwolle (p. 73).

1. Kampen (Inn: Portheine's, called the Dom of Cologne). This seaport on the Zuider Zee, lies at the mouth of the IJssel, here crossed by a fine bridge. It has 10,000 Inhab. Anciently one of the most flourishing Hanse Towns, it is now utterly without commerce. Town-hall, a genuine Gothic building, with statues of Charlemagne, Alexander, and of the Cardinal Virtues, and 2 fine Churches, bespeak its former prosperity. Count Horn, beheaded by Alva, was buried here.

The

A Steamer goes every day except Saturday to Amsterdam, in summer, at past 1, in correspondence with the fast train to Rotterdam.

ROUTE 13.

ROTTERDAM TO ANTWERP BY BREDA, AND BY WATER.

12 posts 62 Eng. m. daily, in 12 hrs.

Diligences

Steamers daily, in 10 hrs, by Dort, Fort Batz, and the Scheldt. (See p. 81). In travelling by land 3 ferries require to be crossed, at Rotterdam, over the Maas; at Dort, over the Merwe; and at Moerdijk, over the Hollands-Diep. The ferry-boats are steamers, and are very well managed. Steamers also ply daily direct from Rotterdam to Dort and Moerdijk.

2 Dort. In Route 12, p. 85.

1. At Willemsdorp the borders of the Hollands-Diep are reached, an arm of the sea, rather than a river, which takes 20 min. to cross to Moerdijk. Noordhaven is sometimes chosen as the place of disembarkation: it is 3 posts from Breda.

2 BREDA. Inns: H. de Flanders, very good; Goude Leeuw, or Golden Lion; Couronne, comfortable.

Breda is a fortress on the rivers Merk and Aa, whose waters, together with the surrounding marshes, render it almost inaccessible to an enemy, but very unhealthy.

some

The principal Protestant Church has a lofty and graceful octagon tower, injured by being surmounted by a Dutch bulbous spire. Within it are interesting monuments: that of Count Engelbrecht II. of Nassau, favourite general of the Emp. Maximilian (d. 1505) and his wife, resembles in plan the monument in Westminster Abbey of Sir Francis Vere. The effigies, of Italian alabaster, repose upon elaborately carved mats; while 4 statues of Julius Cæsar, Regulus, Hannibal, and Philip of Macedon, in a half-kneeling posture, support on their shoulders a table of stone, on which lies the armour of the prince carved in marble. It has been attributed to M. Angelo; but the awkward pose of some of the figures, the feebleness of the anatomical details, the meanness and angularity of the drapery, and the minute finish of some of the accessories, prove that M. Angelo could have

had no hand in the execution. Obs. among other interesting monuments, some memorials of the days of Spanish rule, with their ornaments, elegant, and in plataresco style: one of Count Henry of Nassau, with kneeling figures; another, bearing the date 1536, to the memory of the Sieur de Borgnival, chief engineer to Charles V. Behind the high altar is an altar tomb of the Knight of Renesse and his lady. At the end of the N. aisle is a fine monument to some of the Aschendaal family, with a vigorous and excellent relief of the Last Judgment. Many of these monuments have been injured by violence. In the choir is a highly ornamented brass, commemorating William of Gaellen, a Dean of the chapter; and curious and well-executed carvings in wood, representing monks in ludicrous attitudes, intended to satirise the vices of the clergy. There is also a very fine brass font, the cover of which is raised by a crane.

The old castle was built, 1350, by Count Henry of Nassau; the modern Château by William, afterwards the Third of England. It is a square surrounded by the waters of the Merk. Here is a military academy for infantry, cavalry, artillery, and engineers, capable of accommodating 192 cadets. It is exclusively from this academy that the Dutch army is now officered. Here are good stables and an ample stud, a swimming school, and an extensive plateau, with cannon of every calibre, which supplies the means of drill applicable to each branch of the service. It contains also a good library, a wellstocked model-room, and a small museum of arms (see Quart. Rev., No. 166).

Breda was taken from the Spaniards, in 1590, by means of a singular stratagem concerted between a brave veteran captain of Prince Maurice's army, named Heraugière, and one Adrian Vandenberg, owner of a barge which supplied the garrison with turf for fuel. On Thursday, Feb. 26, Heraugière, and 80 picked soldiers, entered the barge, and were carefully covered over with a cargo of turf. Though the boat had not many miles to go from the place where it was laden, it was so much im

2 Grootzundert, the last place in Holland: examination of passports here by the Dutch, and at West-Wesel (customhouse) by the Belgian authorities. A desolate tract of heath forms the borderland of the 2 countries. At Hooghstraeten, a few miles E. of West-Wesel, so called from the Roman high-way which passed through it, the very large and handsome Ch. of St. Anthony and Eliz. contains monuments to the noble family of La Laing, one of whom built the steeple, 364 ft. high, of brick and stone, richly ornamented, 1546. It has 12 painted windows, old tapestry, abrass font, &c. The château of the La Laings is now the Poor-house.

peded by contrary winds, and by the | tress and chief town of N. Brabant, with frost which had covered the water with 21,000 inhab. (Inn, Goude Leeuw.) a thick coat of ice, that the third day The Church of St. John (1312) is one passed before it arrived within league of the finest ecclesiastical edifices in of the town. To add to the perils of Holland. It is well preserved, and has the crew the vessel sprung a leak; the double aisles and apsidal chapels (date soldiers stood up to their knees in water; 1260-1312), an earlier chapel at the and one of them, named Matthias Helt, N.W. end, and a Lady-chapel N. of began to cough so violently that for fear the choir. The Stadhuis is surmounted he should cause their detection he en- by a tower containing a fine set of treated his companions to run him chimes. Half-way to Bois-le-Duc is through with his sword. Luckily they Tilburg (Inn, Goude Leeuw), a town of were not rigorously examined by the 11,700 inhab., possessing extensive cloth guard, and the sacrifice of the brave manufactories. soldier was not required. It was not till midnight on the 3rd of March (5 days after they had embarked) that the sluice-gates of the citadel were opened, and the boat was dragged in through the ice by the very garrison who were so soon to suffer from its entrance. They carried off so much of the turf for their use, that the boards which covered the concealed band were nearly laid bare; but, by another piece of good fortune, they did not inspect the cargo very minutely; and Vandenberg, with considerable cleverness, contrived by his wit and jokes to turn away their attention, and, lulling all suspicion, finished by making them drunk. As soon as they were asleep, Captain Heraugière and his soldiers issued forth from their miserable retreat; the sentinels were killed, and the rest of the garrison, terrified at the sudden and unexpected attack, abandoned the castle without even the precaution of breaking down the drawbridge leading from it into the town, which was entered a few days afterwards by Prince Maurice and his army. After several fruitless attempts on the part of the Spaniards to regain Breda, it was taken in 1625 by Spinola, who burnt the famous barge which had contributed to its capture by the Dutch in 1590, which had been carefully preserved by them. The surrender of Breda to Spinola has been commemorated by Velazquez in his finest picture, "Las Lanzas," now in the Madrid gallery. Spanish Handbook.

13 Gooring.
1 Breschat.

1 ANTWERP. In Rte. 22.

2. ROTTERDAM TO ANTWERP BY WATER,

Steamers daily in summer. The distance is about 80 m. The time now taken by the new iron boats between Antwerp and Rotterdam is 7 hrs.; the return passage is 2 hrs. longer, as the tide does not serve to pass the banks, which it does in going, and therefore a circuit is obliged to be made to avoid them. The voyage is preferable to the land journey in fine weather; but the broad estuaries dividing the islands which form the province of Zealand are nearly as much agitated as the open sea by storms.

After quitting Dort (Rte. 11) the Charles II. resided at Breda during vessel threads a narrow channel, having part of the time of his exile from England. the appearance of an artificial canal, About 24 m. from Breda is Bois-le-duc called Dordsche Kill, leading into the (den Bosch or Hertogenbosch), a for-wide estuary of the Hollands-Diep, and

water. They were ultimately repulsed, by a bold attack of the garrison, with very severe loss.-The names of the British officers who fell on this occasion may be seen in the church recorded on a monumental tablet erected by their brother officers. In the great Protestant Ch. is the tomb of Lord Edward Bruce, killed in a bloody duel, 1613, with Lord Sackville, to fight which they came over from England. (Guardian, Nos. 129, 133.) The church, which has suffered greatly, is the remnant of a fine building.

Volke Rak, arms of the Maas, flowing the Steinbergen gate; No. 4, the rt. between the islands of Zealand. The column, attacked at the entrance of the places passed on the voyage from Dort harbour, which could be forded at low are S' Gravendeel, Willemsdorp, the fortress of Willemstad, forts Ruiter, and Ooltgensplaats, 2 block-houses covered with red-tiled roofs, erected by the French to defend the entrance of the Hollands-Diep against the English, Philipsland, and Stavenis. On the 1. lies Tholen, and on the rt. the island of Schowen, with its port, Ziericksee, memorable for the daring exploit of the Spaniards, under Requesens, 1575, who forded the channel called Keeten, by a passage 6 m. long, and before untried, wading for the most part up to their necks in water, and in the face of a fleet of boats manned by the Zealanders, who annoyed the Spaniards by a deadly fire, and actually cut off their rear-guard. They thus gained possession of the island, and soon after of Ziericksee. At Zijp an omnibus is stationed to convey passengers to or from Ziericksee (Inn, Hof van Holland), less than an hour's drive; its square tower is conspicuous from the steamer. Passengers bound for Flushing (R. 18), Middelburg, and Goes, are set down at Jerensdam. Emerging from the narrow channel of Tholen, the steamer calls at the jetty of the town and fortress of

A line of posts and branches of trees point out to the pilot the very narrow channel called de Kreek Bak, close to the edge of the extensive sandbank called Verdronken, or Drowned Land, because overwhelmed by an inroad of the sea, and thus cut off from the island of Zuid Beveland. We enter the river Schelde abreast of Fort Batz. The description of the voyage up the Schelde to Antwerp will be found in Rte. 18.

Travellers going from Antwerp to Rotterdam, and wishing to visit Breda, should land at Bergen-op-Zoom, drive to Breda, and sleep there, and rejoin the steamer at Moerdijk the next day. (From Moerdijk to Dort in steamer

Bergen-op-Zoom (Inn, Hof van Hol-1 land), one of the strongest places in Holland, considered the masterpiece in the art of fortification of Coehorn, 7500 inhab., situated in a marshy country which can easily be laid under water.

Among the numerous sieges and attacks which it has endured, the most interesting to the English is the attempt by Gen. Graham to carry the place by storm, on the night of the 8th of March, 1814, which was nearly successful. Two of the 4 attacking columns succeeded in establishing themselves on the ramparts, with very trifling loss. No. 1, the 1. column, attacked between the Antwerp and Waterport gates; No. 2 attacked the rt. of the New Gate; No. 7 was destined only to draw attention by a false attack near

hr., Dort to Rotterdam 1 hr.). From Antwerp to Fort Batz 1 hr., a delay of about hr. at Fort Batz on account of custom-houses: thence to Bergen hr. Bergen op Zoom is a bad place to land at in wet weather; a long jetty and dyke has to be traversed before reaching the town. From Bergen -op-Zoom to Breda is a drive of 4 hrs.: there is an intermediate post station at Rosendaal; but the landlord of the Hof v. Holland, who is the postmaster, will furnish a carriage and horses which easily perform the whole distance. There is much heather-land between Bergen-op-Zoom and Breda.

If the traveller should not find the steamer at Moerdijk, he may cross to Willemsdorp by the steam-ferry, and proceed thence to Dort, where steamers going to Rotterdam are easily found.

18. Passports.

SECTION II.

BELGIUM.

INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION.

19. Money.-20. Posting.-21. Diligences; Hired Carriages ; Barriers; Roads.-22. Railroads.-23. Inns.-24. General View of Belgium.25. Belgian Cities and Architecture.—26. Chimes (Carillons).–27. Works of Art : Schools of Van Eyck and Rubens.

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THE Belgian minister in London issues passports to all who may require them, gratis, at his house, 51, Portland Place, between 11 and 3. A passport may be obtained from the Belgian Consul in London (between the hours of 12 and 4 only), upon payment of 5s.

Except in the frontier towns, and at Brussels, the capital, passports are now seldom required by the police in Belgium. More strictness is observed since the political events of 1848. The under-functionaries of the Belgian police, and custom-house officers, often display in their conduct instances of insolence, dilatoriness, and neglect of their duties, very annoying to the traveller, and contrasting

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