Carriages (Droschken) are waiting at the Rly., and in the Ludwig's Platz and Kornmarkt, which, at the rate of 2 mks. 20 pf. for 2 pers. the hour, will drive you to the Castle, up the Neckar, to the top of the Königsstuhl, and back, in 3 or 4 hours.

Terrace; returning down the footpath | In 1674 the Elector Charles Louis (Burgweg) into the Kornmarkt, and incurred the displeasure of Louis XIV.; through the town back to the Rail- and a French army, under Turenne, way. From the great Ch. a street leads was in consequence let loose upon the N. in 5 min. to the Bridge, which is a Palatinate, carrying slaughter, fire, and good point of view. The Kanzel, a pro- desolation before it. The Elector bejecting rock, and the Molkenkur, a sum- held with distress, from the castle in mer-house still higher up the hill than which he had shut himself up, the the Castle, command extensive pros- inroads of foreign troops, and flame and pects, but will extend the walk by about smoke rising up along the plain from an hour. burning towns and villages. Unable to oppose the French with equal force at the head of an army, but anxious to avenge the wrongs of his country, he resolved to end the contest with his own sword. Accordingly he sent a cartel to Marshal Turenne, challenging him to single combat. The French The beauty of the Bergstrasse has general returned а civil answer, been perhaps exaggerated; that of but did not accept it. The amHeidelberg cannot be too much ex-bition of Louis XIV. led him, on tolled; it is charmingly situated on the the 1. bank of the Neckar, on a narrow ledge between the river and the castle rock. It is almost limited to a single street, nearly 3 m. long, from the Railway Stat. to the Heilbronn gate. It has 24,000 Inhb., one-third Rom. Catholics. Few towns in Europe have experienced to a greater extent, or more frequently, the horrors of war, than the ill-starred Heidelberg. Previous to the Thirty Years' War it displayed in its buildings all the splendour arising from flourishing commerce and the residence of the court of the Electors Palatine of the Rhine. It has been five times bombarded, twice laid in ashes, and thrice taken by assault and delivered over to pillage. In 1622 (the fatal period of the Thirty Years' War) Tilly took the town by storm after a cruel siege and bombardment which lasted nearly a month, and gave it up to be sacked for 3 days together. The garrison retreated into the castle, headed by an Englishman named Herbert; but the death of their commander, who was shot, compelled them to surrender in a few days. The Imperial troops retained possession of the place for 11 years; after which it was retaken by the Swedes, who were hardly to be preferred as friends to the Imperialists as foes. But Heidelberg was destined to suffer far worse evils from the French. [N. G.]

death of the Elector's son, 1685, to lay claim to the Palatinate on behalf of the Duke of Orleans; and another French army, more wicked than the first, was marched across the Rhine. Heidelberg was taken and burnt, 1688, by Melac: but it was at the following siege, under Chamilly, in 1693, that it was reserved for the French to display the most merciless tyranny, and practise excesses worthy of fiends rather than men, upon the town and its inhab. The castle was betrayed through the cowardice or treachery of the governor, with the garrison, and many of the townspeople who had fled to it for refuge. The cruelty of the treatment they met with was, in this instance, heightened by religious intol erance, and no mercy was shown to the Protestants. On this occasion the castle was entirely ruined.

The Anlagen or public gardens, extending from the stat. to the town, form one of its most pleasing features. Here is a bronze statue, erected 1860, of Field-Marshal Wrede, born here 1767, and leader of the Bavarian army in 1813-15.

The University, founded 1386, is one of the oldest in Germany: the number of students is about 700. It is for its schools of law and medicine that Her

2 c

delberg is most distinguished. Many of the professors are men of great reputation. Gervinus died here in 1871.

As an edifice the University is not remarkable. It is a plain and not very large house in the small square (Ludwigs Platz) near the middle of the town. The Library (open daily 10 to 12; Wed. and Sat. also from 3 to 5), in a building by itself, consists of 200,000 volumes, 1800 MSS. 802 vols., a portion of the Palatine Library, which was carried off by the Bavarians in the Thirty Years' War, and sent to the Vatican as a present to the Pope, and as a trophy of the success of the Catholic cause, was restored to Heidelberg by Pope Pius VII. in 1815. It is related that Tilly, being in want of straw after taking the castle, littered his cavalry with books and MSS. from the library of the Elector, at that time one of the most valuable in Europe. The curiosities of this collection as it at present stands are,- -a Codex of the Greek Anthology, 11th cent.; MSS. of Thucydides and Plutarch, of the 10th and 11th, and many autographs of remarkable persons; Luther's MS. translation of Isaiah; his Exhortation to Prayer against the Turks; and a copy of the Heidelberg Catechism, annotated by him; the Prayer-book of the Electress Elizabeth (James I.'s daughter); a Missal, ornamented with miniatures, by John Dentzel of Ulm, 1499.

repeated sieges. One house, however, escaped, which in the richly-decorated façade, ornamented with statues, coats of arms, &c., may give some notion of former splendour; it is the Inn called *Zum Ritter, from the figure of a knight on the top: it was built in 1592. It stands in the market-place, near the Church of the Holy Ghost, in which many electors and counts palatine were buried. Their fine monuments were destroyed by the French in 1793. The church is divided by a partition wall between the Catholics and Protestants. The resistance of the townspeople to the Elector Charles Philip, who wanted to deprive the Protestants of their half of this church, occasioned him to remove the Electoral court from Heidel berg to Mannheim in 1719-20.

To the door of St. Peter's Ch. (Prot.), on the hill at the end of the Anlagen, Jerome of Prague, the companion of Huss, attached his celebrated theses, which he maintained, at the same time expounding the Reformed doctrines to a multitude of hearers in the adjoining churchyard. Here also is the simple tomb of Olympia Morata, who com bined the feminine grace and beauty a woman with the intellect and learning of a philosopher. Persecuted as & heretic in Italy, the land of her birth, she was forced to fly, along with her husband, a German, and at length settled at Heidelberg, where she deIn the University Museum are Creu-livered lectures to a large and admiring zers' cabinet of antiquities; Professor Bronn's fossils of the neighbourhood of Heidelberg; and Leonhard's fossils and minerals, particularly rich in specimens illustrative of the geology of this part of Germany.

The Picture Gallery on the 3rd floor is unimportant, but contains a few good modern paintings.

The Museum Club contains reading, ball, and concert rooms, well supplied with papers and journals.

Neither the public nor private buildings in the town are at all remarkable in an architectural point of view, chiefly owing to the destruction caused by

audience. Her extraordinary acquire ments in learning, her beauty, misfor tunes, and early death, shed a peculiar interest upon her grave.

The objects of greatest interest here are the Castle, and the views of the Rhine and Neckar valley.

The **Castle, anciently the residence of the Electors Palatine, presenting the combined character of a palace and a fortress, is an imposing ruin. (Admis sion daily, 1 mark.) The building displays the work of various hands, the taste of different founders, and the styles of successive centuries: it is highly interesting for its varied fortunes, its picturesque situation, its

In a cellar under the castle is the famous Heidelberg Tun, constructed 1751; it is the largest wine-cask in the world, 36 ft. long and 24 ft. high; being capable of holding 800 hogsheads or 283,200 bottles, which is far less, after all, than the dimensions of one of the porter vats of a London brewer.

vastness, and the relics of architectural | canopy of the well in the corner of magnificence which it still displays, the court of the castle are said by after having been three times burnt, some to have been brought from Charand having ten times experienced the lemagne's palace at Ingelheim, though horrors of war. Its final ruin, how they are undoubtedly derived from the ever, did not arise from those causes; quarry in the Odenwald. but after the greater part of the building had been restored to its former splendour in 1718-20, it was set on fire by lightning in 1764; and since the total conflagration which ensued, it has never been rebuilt or tenanted. It is approached by a carriage-road from behind, and by a winding foot-path on the side of the Neckar. The oldest part remaining is probably In former days, when the tun was filled that built by the Electors Rudolph and Rupert. It has all the character of a stronghold of the Middle Ages, and the teeth of the portcullis still project from beneath the archway leading to it. The Friedrichsbau, named from the Elector who built it in 1607, is distinguished by excessive richness of decoration: its façade to the S. is ornamented with statues of ancestors of the Electoral family from Charlemagne. The part of the building most deserving of admiration, for the good taste of its design and the elegance of its decorations, is that which overlooks the river, and extends along the E. side of the quadrangle built by Otto Henry (1556), in the style called Cinque-cento. The statues of heroes from sacred and profane history, which decorate the front, though of (keuper) sandstone, are by no means contemptible as works of art.

with the produce of the vintage, it was usual to dance on the platform on the top. It is supposed to have been filled with the white wine of the Odenwald, although none of the Bergstrasse wines possess keeping qualities. It has, however, remained empty since 1769.

One of the towers which formed the outer defences of the Castle (Der Gesprengte Thurm) was undermined and blown up by the French; but so thick were the walls, and so strongly built, that, though nearly the whole of one side was detached by the explosion, instead of crumbling to pieces it merely slid down from its place, in one solid mass, into the ditch, where it still remains. Subterranean passages, for the most part still preserved and accessible, extend under the ramparts.

The Gardens (originally laid out by the engineer Solomon de Caus) and The English traveller will view with Shrubberies round the castle, and the some interest that part of the castle adjoining Terrace to the eastward, called the English Palace from its having afford the most agreeable walks and been built for the reception of the splendid points of view it is possible to Princess Elizabeth Stuart, daughter conceive over the Neckar, issuing out of James I., and grand-daughter of of its vine-clad valley, and winding Mary Queen of Scots. The triumphal through a plain of the utmost fertility arch, having pillars entwined with ivy-to join the Rhine, which appears here leaves, was erected by her husband, and there in distant flashes glittering the Elector Frederick V., afterwards in the sun. Spires and towers proclaim King of Bohemia, to celebrate their nuptials; it led to the flower-garden which he caused to be laid out for her pleasure, and it still goes by the name of Elizabethen Pforte.

The Granite Pillars supporting the

the existence of cities and village, almost without number, and the land, scape is bounded by the outline of the Vosges mountains.

There is an Inn or Boarding-house within the Castle; comfortable rooms.

The best general View of the Castle | been erected for the convenience of visitors, who often repair hither to see the sun rise, and if possible to extend the limits of the panorama, which includes the valleys of the Rhine and Neckar, the Odenwald, Haardt Mountains on the W., the Taunus on the N.W., the ridge of the Black Forest on the S., with the Castle of Ebersteinberg, near Baden, and the spire of Strassburg Minster, 90 m. off. Tilly bombarded the town from this hill, after his attack from the rt. bank had failed: remains of his trenches are still visible.

may be obtained from the extremity of the *Terrace raised upon arches, and projecting over the Neckar. The building, however, is so grand an object, and the surrounding country so exceedingly beautiful, that the stranger will hardly be satisfied with seeing it from one point. The *Molkencur, 200 ft. above the Castle, commands a magnificent prospect. Good Restaurant. The visitor should mount the heights on the rt. bank of the Neckar, either by a path leading from the end of the old bridge, which is steep, or by a more gradual ascent from Neuenheim, which may be reached from the stat. by the Modern Bridge. An agreeable path, easily accessible, called the Philosopher's Walk, conducts along the slope of the hill fronting the town. The hill behind it, which stands in the angle between the valley of the Rhine and Neckar, called the Heiligenberg, presents a more extensive prospect. On the top are ruins of a castle and church of St. Michael, which succeeded to a Roman fort built on the spot. In the Thirty Years' War Tilly opened his trenches to bombard the town from this point.

About 50 yards above the old bridge, on the rt. bank, in a solitary inn called Hirschgasse, the students' duels are fought. 4 or 5 sometimes take place in a day; and it is no uncommon thing for a student to have been engaged in 25 or 30, as principal, in the course of 4 or 5 years. Duelling days are Tuesday and Thursday, between 10 A.M. and 1. Strangers are not admitted, unless introduced by a member of "the corps," which comprises only about 150 out of 700 students. There are 5 different corps, distinguished by the colours of their caps: 1, white, Saxoborussians; 2, red, Vandals; 3, green, Westphalians; 4, blue, Rhinelanders; 5, yellow, Suabians.

The *Königsstuhl, the highest hill in this district, lies behind the town and castle. The summit may be reached in 1 or 1 hr.'s walk, or in a carriage, and the view is the most extensive in the neighbourhood. A lofty tower has

The banks of the Neckar above Heidelberg are very interesting, and afford many pleasant excursions—one of the most agreeable being to Neckargemünd (Inn: Pfalz), 6 m. off (2nd stat. on Rly. to Würzburg, Rte. 110); the excursion may be agreeably pro longed to Neckar Steinach, on the rt. bank (Inn: Die Harfe). The course of the Neckar is described in the Handbook for S. Germany, Rte. 159.

A road, overlooking the Neckar, runs from the castle along the shoulder of the hill to the Wolf's Brunnen, an agreeable walk or drive of 2 m.; charming views. It is a pretty retired nook, named_from a spring which rises there. There is a small Inn close to it, famed for its beer and trout—like a Swiss cottage. Trout are reared here by thousands, in a succession of well-contrived ponds and tanks; in the last of which they are fattened for the table. They are also largely exported. Here, according to tradition, the enchantress Jetta, who lived on the spot, and first foretold the greatness of the house of the Palatinate, was torn in pieces by a wolf. You may return hence to Heidelberg by the road along the margin of the river.

Hausacker's, now Metz's, collection of armour and paintings, old iron and steel work, and executioners' swords, outside the Karls Thor, well deserves a visit.

The cherries of Dossenheim, a village about 2 m. beyond Handschuhsheim,

on the Bergstrasse, are sent by steam-whose Palace, built in the last cent., boats to the London market. is now converted into Law Courts.

The pretty gardens of Schwetzingen, The large building on 1. is a Prison about an hour's drive (6 m. Rly. on the separate system. Bruchsal through Eppelheim and Plankstadt, was joined to Baden in 1803. [Rly. 5 trains daily in 20 min.), form a S.E. to Mühlacker Junct. Stat.; pleasant excursion. (See Rte. 102.) thence S.W. to Pforzheim and E. to Heidelberg is a cheap place of resi- | Bietigheim for Heilbronn or Stuttgart dence, provisions being moderate and (Hndbk. S. Germany), N.W. to Germersabundant. heim.]

Railways:-N.W. to Friedrichsfeld 31 m. Durlach Junct. Stat. (Inn: Junct. Stat., thence N. to Frankfurt Carlsburg), once the capital and re(see above), and W. to Mannheim sidence of the Margraves of Baden(Rte. 102). E. to Meckesheim Junct. Durlach, who reunited all the Baden Stat., whence N.E. to Würzburg possessions upon the extinction of the (Rte. 110), and S.E. to Heilbronn and line of Baden-Baden, 1771. An old Stuttgart (Hndbk. S. Germany). S. to ruined castle, with its conspicuous Carlsruhe, Strassburg, Basle, &c. (see watch-tower, upon the height of the below). S.W. to Spires (in Rte. 102), Thurmberg, commanding a fine view, viâ Schwetzingen. was the cradle of the family. The more recent Schloss or Palace in the town is now half pulled down; what remains is turned into a cavalry barrack. In the gardens are some Roman altars and milestones, found in the neighbourhood. In 1688 Durlach was burned by the French, and has never recovered from this blow.

Heil

Steamboats on the Neckar to bronn, daily at 6.20 A.M., in 13 hrs., very tedious; descending in 7 or 8. (See Hndbk. for S. Germany, Rte. 159.)

The Baden Railway - Heidelberg to Basle.

The country to the S. of Heidelberg scarcely retains any trace of the beauty of the Bergstrasse, but the line is carried through a flat but fertile country, with a range of hills to the eastward.

9 m. Wiesloch Stat. rt. The large building called Kislau was formerly a Ducal Palace, but is now a penitentiary.

15 m. Langenbrücken Stat. (Inns: Ochs; Sonne), Pop. 1500. Here are sulphur-baths, very efficacious for diseases of the skin and of the respiratory organs, for gout, rheumatism, &c. Lodging at the Bathing Establishment. Table d'hôte and wines very good. A cheap and agreeable summer residence for families.

21 m. Bruchsal Junct. Stat. (Inns: H. Keller, at Stat.; Badischer Hof; Rose, near Stat.). This inanimate town of 11,300 Inhab. was formerly the residence of the Bishops of Spires,

rt. A noble avenue of Lombardy poplars, the oldest and highest in Germany, none being under 90 ft., and some more than 120 ft. high, 2 m. long, lines the road from Durlach to Carlsruhe.

[Rly. S.E. to Pforzheim, thence S.W. to Wildbad, N.E. for Heilbronn, and S.E. for Stuttgart (see Hndbk. S. Germany).

After passing (rt.) Gottesau, once a Benedictine convent, now an artillery barrack, and the interesting Cemetery of Carlsruhe, we reach the handsome buildings, designed by the architect Eisenlohr, which compose the

34 m. Carlsruhe Junct. Stat. (Inns: *Erbprinz; H. *Germania, close to the stat., trains noisy; H. Grosse. 2nd class: Grüner Hof, near the Rly., noisy concerts in the evening; *Adler, in the Carl Friedrichs Str., homely.)

Post Office in the Ritterstrasse, open 8 to 8; Telegraph Office in the Herrenstrasse.