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Spain.-Walls of Pæstum.-Tombs.-Temples.-Its present State.
- Reflections. Volcanic Eruption. - Pompeii. - Amphitheatre.—
Herculaneum. Skeletons in Pompeii. - Temple. - Houses. - Arti-
cles found there. Morals of the Inhabitants. - Pickpockets. - Pup-
py Auction.-Vesuvius.-Ascent by Night.-A Warm Bed.- Scene
at Sunrise. Eruptions. - Crater. - Manuscripts at Herculaneum. —
Skeletons. Shops. Eruptions. - Minerals.- Fertility. - Sorrento.
- Madam Starke. - Ruins.-Villa of Vedius Pollio. - Tasso.- The
Piano.-Mountain Scenery.-Amalfi.-Artists.- Mountains.-Snow-
pits. Scenery. — A Singular Ride and a pleasant Acquaintance.
. 110
CHAPTER VII.
CAPUA AND ROME.
A Sleeping City. - Leave Naples. -- Carriages. Conductor. - Aver-
- Hospital. — Capua. - Amphitheatre.
sa.
The Liris. Mola. -
Cicero.- Robbers.- Countess of Fondi. - Terracina. - Promontory
of Circe. Pontine Marshes.- Appii Forum. -The Three Taverns.
-Velletri. Lake Nemi. - Mount Albano. View of Rome. - Re-
flections.-Lake Albano. - American Coffee-house.-Campagna Ro-
mana.- - Malaria. — Aqueducts.— Walls of Rome.-Feelings on en-
tering the City. - Gibbon. - Hotel. - Appearance of Rome. - The
Seven Hills. Villas. - Fountains. Obelisks. — Triumphal Col-
umns.- Bridges.- Public Squares.- Palaces. St. Peter's Church;
Vestibule, Interior, High Altar. - St. Peter's Chair.
The Dome.-
Reflections. Brazen Ball. The Ancient Church. - Public Devo-
tions. Vatican Palace. Specimens of the Fine Arts - Classic
Interest. Statuary.-Sculpture.—Vatican Library. - Popes of Rome;
their History, Claims, and Power; their Humiliation. — Etiquette of
the Papal Court. Interview with the Pope; his Dress, and Personal
Appearance.
Interview with the Pope. - Conversation. Homage. Presents.
Cardinal Fesch. - Paintings. - Mother of Napoleon. - Rival Artists.
Ara Cœli. Gibbon. - Public Amusements.. Pagan Festivals.
Catholic Paganism. - Palatine Hill. Amphitheatre. The Colise-
um. Its Structure, Ornaments, and the Scenes enacted there.
Gladiators.-Wild Animals.-- Baths; their Origin and Object.-- Baths
of Titus, of Diocletian, of Caracalla. - Public Morals. - Idolatry. —
The Jews.-Catholics.-Funerals.-The Pope's Guard.-Cardinals.
-Popes. - Population of Rome. -The Clergy.- Debts and Income
of the Pope. Police. - Index of Prohibited Books. - Prisons.—
139
Hospitals.
Robbers.
Beggars.
Funerals.-Secret Societies.
Military Escorts.-- Education in Rome.
College. The University of Rome.
CHAPTER IX.
SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.
178
Cruise at Sea. - Parties in Spain. - Friars.
Party. -- Liberals. — Convents. — Archbishop of Santiago.- Riot at
Barcelona.. Junta of Extermination. Archbishop of Tarragona. ·
Friars in Majorca.— Storm at Sea. One of our Crew lost.- Poetry.
---
- Reflections.-An April Fool.-Portugal; her past History.-Don
Miguel. Don Pedro.-The Queen.-The Army. - National Income
and Debt. - Convents.-Monks and Friars.-The Jesuits.-Nuns.-
Colleges. Income of the Clergy. -- Education. The Navy. — Lis-
bon; its History and Population. -- Houses. - Dogs.- Earthquake.—
Dress of Females.-Education.-Libraries. -Records of the Inquisi-
tion. Rare Works. - Paintings. - English Chapel and Grave Yard.
- Fielding. Dr. Doddridge. - Hospital. Insane Patients.- Med-
ical School.-Church of St. Roque.--Foundling Hospital.-Schools.
Convent of Belem.. -The Deaf and Dumb.- English Craft, and
Portuguese Folly.
Visit to Cintra in Autumn,
Houses, Mountains.-The Sea.- Montserrat.-Palaces.-Mafra, its
Palace. Convent. - Organs.-- Musical Bells. - English Influence.
Leave Lisbon for Madrid. - Smugglers. - Robbers. - Prejudice
against Foreigners. Royalists. -- Volunteers. Carlists.-Croakers.
- A Sail on the Tagus. - Our Lady of Attalia. - Porters. — A Cabin
Scene. Posadas. -- Roads. - Smugglers, their Mode of Life. — A
Night Scene.- - Armour. Sketches of my Companions. - Our Road.
Pigs. Turkeys. -- Cork Trees. The Olive. - Fortresses.
tramoz.-Elvas.— Badajoz.-National Hatred.--Smuggling.-Music.
Arrive at Badajoz.-Cavallo Blanco. - The Landlady. -- Servant
Boy. Recruits, mode of treating them.-Drilling. -Manuel Godoy.
The Queen Regent. - Battle of Badajoz. -- The Cathedral.-
Paintings. Leave Badajoz. - A Parting Scene. - My Fellow-Pas-
The Mayoral. Our Galera. ·
Meeting of Friends. A Murder. Talavera, Battle
Spanish Ferocity. - Flocks of Sheep. - Sheepfolds. - Shep-
Christmas. - Robbers. Severe Cold.-Madrid.
216
243
CHAPTER XI.
MADRID: THE ESCURIAL.
--
History of Madrid. — Its Gates. — Public Squares. - Fountains. .Gal-
legos. Population. - Public Buildings. Streets. Lights. - Pase-
OS.- The Prado. - Public Gardens. Convents. -- Royal Palace. -
Library. Armory.- Military Museum. Cabinet of Natural Sci-
ences.- -
Museum of the Fine Arts. - Royal Museum of Paintings. -
Prisons. Holydays. Beggars. Confession.-General Hospital.
-Foundling Hospital. - Mrs. Mendoza. -- School for Female Or-
phans. Private Charity. - Mount of Piety. --The Deaf and Dumb.
The Blind. Modes of Burial. - Friar's Robes.-The Escurial;
its History, Form, and Size. - Tomb of Spanish Kings. - Paintings.
Cambiaso. Relics. Dangerous Adventures. The Cortes. -
The Pope. The Clergy. - Nunneries. -- Feelings of the People. —
Sermons. Idolatry. Catholics in the United States.
Speaking. The Spanish Language. - Don Quixote. - Party Strife.
- Exiles. Houses. Insurance.
Leave Madrid.-Diligences. - Aranjuez. — The Palace.
The Town. Grist-Mill. Ride to Toledo. - Reflections..
The Inquisition. - Foundling Hospital. -
Celibacy of the Clergy. - Clerical Friends. - Toledo Blades. - Serv-
ing two Masters. Watch of the Passion. Cathedral.
Treasures.
Mozarabic Liturgy. Priests and Churches. Walk to Ocania.
Travelling Companions. - Robbery. -- Our Loss.--Relics. - Appear-
ance of our Party, - Pocket Testament. — Posada. — Affidavits.
Robbers and Magistrates. Poverty. - Pity from Beggars. - Change
of Climate. Mountains. - Poetry. - Baylen. - Horses. - Pelistes.
- Cordova. Mahometanism. - Jews. Fanaticism. Martyrs.
Mosque of Cordova. - Carmona. Its Capture. .
History of Seville.-Muza. — Exilona. -Othman. - Alfonso the Sixth.
-Zaida.-Expulsion of the Moors. -Walls of the City.. Houses.
School of the Noble Arts. - Spanish Painters. -Collections of Paint-
ings.Convents. - Murillo. - Hospital. -- Population. - Longevity.
-The Golden Tower. - Italica. -Roman Emperors.-The Alcazar.
-Hall of the Ambassadors. Gardens. House of Pilate.-Cannon-
Foundery. Tobacco Factory.- Female Operatives.- Cathedral. -
Giralda. - Paintings. — Columbian Library. — Clergy. — Society and
Manners. Parting of Friends. —A Spanish Steamboat.
A Foolish
Priest. Arrive at Cadiz. Situation of the City. - Its Beauty.-
Population. Public Morals. Houses. - St. Mary's. - Xerez.-
Manufacture of Wine.
Vintage. Wine-Press.
- Temperance
Com-
. 359
Wines. Agrass. Wine-Vaults.Wealth of the Wine-Merchants.
Anecdotes of Robbers. Crime. Roads. - Agriculture.
merce of Cadiz. - We leave Cadiz.
CHAPTER XIV.
CONDITION AND PROSPECTS OF SPAIN.
Sabbath at Cadiz.-
Priest of St.
Rev. Mr. Rule; his History, Labors, Journal.
Journey to Seville. Religious Condition of the City
Gil. Students. Infidelity. — Journey to Madrid. — Bishop of As-
torga. Spanish Versions of the Bible. - Union of the Spanish and
English Churches. Augustine Monk; his Views of Spain. - Prohib-
ited Books.Opposition to Papacy. - Prisoners. - Señor Potia.-
Friars. Public Morals and Religion. Spanish Hymns. - Circula-
tion of the Bible in Spain: Missions there. - Feelings of the People.
Facilities for Social Intercourse. Liberty of the Press. -Reli-
gious Laws. Bishop of Cadiz. English Influence. Versions of
Catholic Works.-
Thoughts on Popery. — Education in Spain. - Emigrants.-Gover-
nors of Cadiz and Barcelona. — Archbishop of Toledo. - Spanish
Schools and Colleges.
384