"The world of sight must long have disappeared from his view; the whizzing universe would be a mere blur upon his retina, were he to open his eyes. But does he see nothing beyond it through their closed lids? Has he really twirled himself in imagination to the Gates of Paradise? Perhaps the incessant rotatory movement acts on the human brain like hashish. This dervish, at any rate, has all the air of the wonder-seer. He is of the true race of the Visionaries, and even if he were not, the stupor of trance is, at any rate, a less unwholesome and distressing subject of contemplation than the spasms of epilepsy. The performance of the Twirling Dervish leaves no sense of a degraded humanity behind it; but you quit the company of their grunting and gasping brothers, with all the feeling of having assisted at a 'camp meeting' of the lower apes."

Other minor sights, which might perhaps be included among what Americans might call the "side-shows" of Cairo, are the native cafés, where dances by the Ghawazee girls are the chief attraction. They are, however, poor imitations of the dances that may be seen in the Upper Nile villages. They are lacking in local colour, and the performances are decidedly banal and vulgar.

Six Days' Itinerary.-Even those who have

only a few days for Cairo and its excursions, can see a good deal, with the minimum waste of time, by adopting the following itinerary :—

First Day (Monday).-Morning: Bazaars, and the Mosques near the Bazaar region (see chapter on "Mosques"). Afternoon: Tombs of the Caliphs and the Citadel.

Second Day (Tuesday).—Morning: Mosques and Arabic Museum. Afternoon: Old Cairo (Coptic Churches, Mosque Amru, Aqueduct) and Roda Island (Nilometer).

Third Day (Wednesday).—Morning: Egyptian Museum. Afternoon: Heliopolis, Matarieh, and on return Koubbeh Palace (Station). Frequent trains.

Fourth Day (Thursday).-Morning: Barrage. Afternoon: Small Petrified Forest.

Fifth Day (Friday).—Morning: Pyramids. Afternoon: Dancing Dervishes and Twirling Dervishes. Khedivial Library. Tombs of the Mamelukes.

Sixth Day (Saturday).-Sakkarah.

What to Omit.-Those who have only a week to spare for Cairo and its sights and excursions should be proof to the persuasions of the guides, and omit the following excursions: the Palaces, Ostrich Farm and Helouan; and devote the time saved to a more h examination of the Mosques, the Bazaars, gyptian Museum.

PART II

EXCURSIONS

I. THE PYRAMIDS OF GHIZEH

Routes. The usual way of "doing" the Pyramids is to take the electric tram after an early breakfast, and return to Cairo in time for lunch. Fare 15s. or 16s. This includes two to three hours' stay, but only gives time for a climb to the summit of the Pyramid of Cheops, and a glance at the Sphinx, and possibly a hasty visit to the interior of the Great Pyramid. Such a hurried visit is, however, most unsatisfactory. A better way and not much more expensive is to go by the electric tram to the Pyramids in the evening and sleep at the Mena House Hotel, at the foot of the Pyramids. By this means the Pyramid can be climbed in comfort and comparative privacy early the next morning before the usual horde of tourists arrive from Cairo. Then one can return to Cairo by the Mena House coach, which usually leaves after lunch. The total cost of this excursion need not exceed £1, 10s. or £1, 15s.