worship, and is, in fact, usually closed, but the key can be obtained at the lodge at the entrance to the citadel. The arcaded kibla is beautifully ornamented with rich arabesques.

Mosque of Sulieman Pasha.-This is built on the walls of the citadel, and is interesting, though of an inferior and late style of architecture, chiefly Byzantine in character. It was built by Sultan Selim, the Ottoman conqueror of Egypt, who was formerly known as Sulieman Pasha. The interior is lavishly decorated. In general appearance the mosque resembles Saint Sophia of Constantinople.

Joseph's Well-This is a shaft of vast proportions and great depth cut through the solid rock to a depth of nearly 300 feet. It has, it need hardly be said, no connection with the Hebrew patriarch, to whom it is attributed by the guides. It is named after Saladin, whose Arabic name was Yusuf (Joseph), who either excavated or, as is generally held by antiquarians, opened up an old well dug by the ancient Egyptians. Visitors can descend by a kind of spiral roadway, and the well is quite worth a close examination (fee 2 p.). It is supposed that the bottom of the well is on the same level as the Nile. It is not now much used, as since 1866 the citadel has been supplied with water by the Cairo Water Company.

View from the Terrace.-The prospect from the

southern ramparts is justly famous, and may be included among the world's most famous points of view. The citadel is worth visiting at sunset for the view alone.

X. THE TOMBS OF THE CALIPHS

THOUGH Some of the best specimens of Saracenic architecture are to be found among this congeries of dilapidated tomb-mosques, which form such a striking landmark in all views of Cairo, they are not likely to prove very attractive to the ordinary tourist. For one thing, most are in ruins, and hitherto the Wakfs Administration, perhaps feeling that the intra-mural mosques, being still used for public worship, had stronger claims, have done little in the work of restoration.

The ordinary visitor will probably be satisfied with an inspection of the best preserved mosques— Kait Bey, Barkuk, and El-Ashraf. But those fond of architecture are recommended to inspect carefully the exterior of many of the less known tomb-mosques. The interiors are rarely worth visiting, and in many cases strangers will feel that they are intruders, as some of the ruined mosques afford a refuge for homeless Arabs and their families, who "squat❞ here