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Sae saft his noiseless footsteps fa'Lighter than shadows on the wa'! Man's ear can catch nae sound ava, E'en though you watch him, Turn but your back, the cheild's awa', And wha can catch him?

strikes thirteen! The Clown proceeds to cast seven pancakes, and at the finishing of every pancake, rattle the pots and pans, fly about in all directions the tin dishes, enter the ghosts of murdered cows, sheep, hens, geese, and turkeys, pass through the air the wild forms of skeleton cats in pursuit of spectral mice, and horror accumulates on horror! Let us escape, or we shall die of fright-Ha! here is a " Grand moving Panorama, representing the voyage of his Majesty King George the Fourth from London to Edinburgh." We'll pay our shilling, and go in to see it. Upon our honour, Mr Hillyard, you, Mr Meldrum, and your numerous assistants, have got up one of the prettiest panoramas we ever east our eyes on. The whole scene passes before us like magic. There go the hearts of oak sailing down the Thames, past Greenwich, and away round the Nore Light, just as the sun sets gloriously. Then rises the silvery moon, and the Royal squadron proudly paws the waves as it glides along the coast of merry England. The morning dawns at Fast Castle, and away we scud past Bamborough Head, Holy Island, the Bass, and Tantallon. Huzza! we are steering up the Forth, and now we are in Leith Roads! In please your Majesty, yonder is Arthur Seat, and the Calton Hill, and the Castle, and you may already hear the shouts of all Scotland coming to you in thunder from her exulting shores! Well done, Mr Hillyard!--we thought not to have lived that hour over again, but you have shown us the imperial pageant once more.-Heaven and earth! how is this? But now we were in Auld Reekie, and behold! we are all at once hurried away to the most "Gloomieferous Cavern of the Blue Devils." Immortal members of the Six Feet Club! look at these two blue devils! Were you aware that devils are, at least, the height of Melville's Monument? These are not fellows to be trifled with in a steeple-chase! They disappear, and the Cavern of Gloom is in an instant converted into the "Variegated and Radiated Temple of Iris!" When did so much glory ever burst upon the soul? And here, in this palace of delight, Harlequin and Columbine are united for ever; and the curtain falls, and we go home, with the hearts of our children and grandchildren beating within us and around us; and our dreams, like theirs, for one long blessed night are full of paradise and joy!

"God help thee, Old Cerberus! is this a style for a critic like thee to write in?" We know not; we only thank our stars that some of the feelings of boyhood are still lingering about us, like the last rays of evening upon the far-off summit of some huge, grey, and rugged mountain.

Old Cerberus.

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O! I dread these shadows that oft-times rise,
As I sit in our circling ring,

And my heart grows faint when I think on the change
A few short years will bring.

GERTRUDE.

THE DEATH-BED.

By John Malcolm,

I STOOD beside him, where he lay,
And watch'd his life's last ebbing sand,
For he was hastening fast away

Unto the distant land!

And scarce remembrance could recall,
In that wan, wasted cheek and brow,
The once bright, blooming face-where all
Was dark and dreary now.

Yet he had pass'd not manhood's prime-
And half his days were scarcely told;
But other ails than those of time
Had made him early old;

E'en when to live we but begin,

And 'scape from headlong passion's spell, On him short, wasting years of sin

Had done their work too well.

The evening sun's descending rays

Full on his fading features shone ; He looked upon his last of days All wild and woe-begone.

It seem'd to wake within his breast

The memory of some fearful dream— "Twere mercy now if sunk to rest In dark oblivion's stream.

Around him closed the gathering nightDelirious horrors fill'd the gloomWithout a ray of hope to light

The lost one to the tomb.

Oh! from the death-bed of despair,

Where doth the parting spirit flee? Alas! we know what now we are, But not what we may be!

LITERARY CHIT-CHAT AND VARIETIES.

We understand that Dr Russell of Leith is preparing for the press a series of discourses on the following subjects:-The Millennium, the Doctrine of Election, Justification by Faith, the Assurance of Faith, and the Freeness of the Gospel.

Dr John Hennen has in the press, Sketches of the Medical Topography of the Mediterranean, comprising a description of Gibraltar, the Ionian Islands, and Malta, by his father, the late Dr Hennen, Inspector of Hospitals, author of the work on the Principles of Mi. litary Surgery.

Mr Sweet has in a forward state for publication a new edition of his Hortus Britannicus, which will enumerate many thousand addi. tional plants, together with the colours of the flowers.

Mr Henry Dance has in the press, Remarks on Law Expenses, with some suggestions for reducing them.

Mr Bucke's Epic Drama of Julio Romano, or the Display of the Passions, accompanied by an historic Memoir, giving an account of the proceedings in parliament last session on the claims of dramatic writers-remarks on the present state of the stage-and the author's correspondence with various persons; to which will be added an appendix, stating the manner in which dramatic authors are rewarded in Russia, Germany, and France, -is about to appear.

The Portfolio of the Martyr Student is announced.

There is preparing for publication, by the Rev. H. Moseley, of St John's College, Cambridge, a Treatise on Hydrostatics and Hydrodynamics, for the use of Students in the University.

A History of English Gardening, from the Roman invasion to the present time, is announced, by G. W. Johnson.

A Complete General History of the East Indies has been for some time preparing by Mr C. Marsden, and he has made considerable progress in the work.

A new novel, entitled The Jew, is in the press.

EDINBURGH LITERARY JOURNAL;

No. 61.

THE

OR,

WEEKLY REGISTER OF CRITICISM AND BELLES LETTRES.

LITERARY CRITICISM.

SATURDAY, JANUARY 9, 1830.

The Mirror of the Graces; or, the English Lady's Costume, containing General Instructions for combining Elegance, Simplicity, and Economy, with Fashion in Dress; Hints on Female Accomplishments and Manners, and Directions for the Preservation of Health and Beauty. By a Lady of Distinction. Edinburgh. Adam Black. 1830. Pp. 212.

PRICE 6d.

perience. Let phrenologists rave about their bumps and organs, show us the colour and make of the gown, the mode of dressing the hair, the length of the petticoat, the shape of the shoe, the device of the ring, and the fall of the scarf or shawl, and if we do not write " full,” "rather large," "small," "very full," opposite the names himself, we shall at length pronounce phrenology a true of the different bumps, more accurately than Mr Combe science. "Show me a lady's dressing-room," says a certain writer, "and I will tell you what manner of woman she is." He was right; but we claim not the privilege of entering her dressing-room,—all we ask is, to see her come out of it in any garb she pleases. "The best chosen dress is that which so harmonizes with the figure as to make the raiment pass unobserved. The result of the finest toilet should be an elegant woman, not an elegantly dressed woman. Where a perfect whole is intended, it is a sign of defect in the execution, when the details first present themselves to observation."

We do not care one farthing whether this book be by "A Lady of Distinction" or not ;-it is a sensible book, and contains a great deal of good sound doctrine and advice, along with, here and there, some things which we think incorrect. It is, we understand, a reprint from the first edition, which appeared so far back as 1817, at Calcutta. If, however, it formerly contained any Indian allusions, these have been expunged, and the work is adapted to the present day, and the existing state of manners in this country. As nothing delights us more, when we can steal a few hours from sterner pursuits, than to dedicate them to the service of the fair sex, we propose offering a sort of running commentary upon the contents of the volume before us, embracing, as they do, so many subjects of vital importance to all ladies.

There can be no doubt that every woman is called upon to pay a particular and steady attention to dress. If we may be allowed to draw a broad distinction, liable, of course, to many exceptions, we should say,-that man is the useful, woman the ornamental, part of creation. A beautiful woman beside an active and intelligent man, is like an elegant garnish to a substantial dish. We eat of the dish, but we preserve the garnish, and we eat of the former the more willingly that it has been rendered so attractive by the latter. Without the softening influence of woman, man would become too rude and fierce; and, perhaps, without the ardour and energy of man, woman would be too insipid and uninformed. Both sexes, therefore, have their relative duties, the one to extend knowledge, and the other to refine society. Refinement goes hand in hand with a due cultivation of taste, and one of the most direct and obvious signs of a duly cultivated taste is the attention paid to one's external appearance and dress. The savage covers his person with a grotesque combination of colours, which at once betrays his ignorance of the true laws of beauty; while, on the other hand, the graces of youth and modesty never appear more attractive than when the chaste decoration of the person becomes, as it were, the sign of the mind's purity. An attention to dress, it is true, may be carried to excess; but those old prosers who railed against dress altogether, as an invention of the Evil One, ought to have considered what kind of creatures we should be were we to go about wrapped up in blankets or bear-skins. "I never yet met with a woman," says the authoress of the book before us, "whose general style of dress was chaste, elegant, and appropriate, that I did not find, on further acquaintance, to be, in disposition and mind, an object to admire and love." This is the observation of a person of sound sense, and entirely coincides with our own ex

Dress has in all ages been indicative, not only of individual, but of national character, strikingly illustrating Pope's couplet

"Manners with fortunes, humours turn with climes, Tenets with books, and principles with times."

Our authoress, in tracing the history of dress, goes pretty far back:-" When innocence left the world," she observes, "astonished man blushed at his own and his partner's nakedness, and coverings were soon invented." The luxury and riches of the East, converted, ere long, the twisted foliage of trees and the skins of beasts into garments of a more splendid description. But the severer taste of the dames of Greece taught them to make a resolute stand against the gorgeousness of the Persian loom and the Tyrian dyes. The wives of a Phocion and a Leonidas were simple in their attire, well knowing that an harmonious form never looks more beautiful than beneath the graceful følds of an inartificial robe, and that the modest zone, the braided hair, or veiled head, are worth all the golden fleece of Colchis, or precious gems of Bussorah. To the classical forms of Greece, the poet, painter, and sculptor turn with delight even now; and as the epicure who has satiated his appetite with all the delicacies of land and sea, is obliged to confess that there is, after all, nothing more delightful than the simple fruits of the earth, so, after the revolution of ages, the fine lady of modern Europe reverts with avidity to the unforgotten costume of many a long-forgotten Grecian maiden. Upon this subject we have pleasure in extracting the following correct and graphic passage:

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impregnable bulwarks of whalebone, wood, and steel; such much quiet decency as possible, remembering that they impassible mazes of gold, silver, silk, and furbelows, met a may make themselves esteemed long after they have ceased man's view, that before he had time to guess it was a wo- to inspire either love or admiration. man that he saw, she had passed from his sight; and he only formed a vague wish on the subject, by hearing, from an interested father or brother, that the moving castle was one of the softer sex.

In close connexion with the subject of dress, stands the consideration how the most perfect effect is to be given to those features which are usually left uncovered. Every body is aware how much the same features vary in beauty at different times, Late hours and fashionable dissipation steal the roses from the healthiest cheek-the lustre from the brightest eye. The indulgence of ill temper engraves premature wrinkles on the fairest brow; and the want of due attention to neatness, cleanliness, and exercise, destroys for ever the brilliancy of the complexion. In these circumstances, the question naturally arises,—how far may fictitious aids to beauty be allowed? Our tenets upon this matter are not quite so strict as those we have often heard laid down. Our opinion is, that the neces

"These preposterous fashions disappeared in England a short time after the Restoration; they had been a little on the wane during the more classic, though distressful reign of Charles I.; and what the beautiful pencil of Vandyke shows us, in the graceful dress of Lady Carlisle and Sacharissa, was rendered yet more correspondent to the soft undulations of nature, in the garments of the lovely, but frail beauties of the second Charles's court. But as change too often is carried to extremes, in this case the unzoned tastes of the English ladies thought no freedom too free; their vestments were gradually unloosened of the brace, until another touch would have exposed the wearer to no thicker covering than the ambient air. "The matron reign of Anne in some measure corrected sity of resorting to such means of pleasing is, in general, a this indecency. But it was not till the accession of the sufficient punishment. We, of course, prefer natural House of Brunswick that it was finally exploded, and gave ringlets to a wig, but if the natural ringlets have all dropped way by degrees to the ancient mode of female fortification, off, should a lady therefore erect her bald head upon a sofa by introducing the hideous Parisian fashion of hoops, buck-or at a dinner table? We prefer the row of ivory teeth ram stays, waists to the hips, screwed to the circumference that have been growing out of one's gums from childhood of a wasp, brocaded silks stiff with gold, shoes with heels so to any other set of teeth which may be fastened there by high as to set the wearer on her toes; and heads, for quan- the cunning wires of the dentist, but shall we therefore tity of false hair, either horse or human, and height to outweigh, and perhaps outreach, the Tower of Babel! defend the gaping gulf of a dilapidated mouth against These were the figures which our grandmothers exhibited; the pleasant appearance of a well-furnished orifice? We nay, such was the appearance I myself made in my early prefer the purple bloom of youth" to all the carmine at youth; and something like it may yet be seen at a drawing- this moment in Paris, but if a few touches of a little inroom on court-days. nocent vegetable rouge rescue from milky paleness or yelWhen the arts of sculpture and painting, in their fine low biliousness the face of one we like, shall we be stern specimens from the chisels of Greece, and the pencils of Italy, were brought into this country, taste began to mould moralist enough to forbid the application of the revivifythe dress of our female youth after their more graceful fa-ing tint? Hear our authoress upon this point. She very shion. The health-destroying bøddice was laid aside, bro- properly forbids the use of white paint, which is always cades and whalebone disappeared; and the easy shape and poisonous, and, sooner or later, corrodes the skin; but she flowing drapery again resumed the rights of nature and of has not the same objections to the use of red

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grace. The bright hues of auburn, raven, or golden tresses adorned the head in its native simplicity, putting to shame the few powdered toupees, which yet lingered on the brow of prejudice and deformity.

and to REMARKS ON ROUGINGASTO

"What is said against white paint, does not appose with the same force the use of red. Merely rouging leaves three Thus for a short time did the Graces indeed preside at parts of the face, and the whole of the neck and arms, to the toilet of the British beauty; but a strange caprice seems their natural hues. Hence, the language of the heart, exnow to have dislodged these gentle handmaids. Here stands pressed by the general complexion, is not yet entirely obaffectation distorting the form into a thousand unnatural structed. Besides, while all white paints are ruinous to shapes; and there, ill taste, loading it with grotesque orna-health. (occasioning paralytic affections, and premature ments, gathered (and mingled confusedly) from Grecian death,) there are some red paints which may be used with and Roman models, from Egypt, China, Turkey, and perfect safety.

"While I recommend that the rouge we sparingly per

Hindostan. All nations are ransacked to equip a modern "A little vegetable rouge tinging the cheek of a delicate fine lady; and, after all, she may perhaps strike a contem-woman, who, from ill health or au anxious mind, loses her porary beau as a fine lady, but no son of nature could, at a roses, may be excusable; and so transparent is the texture glance, possibly find out that she meant to represent an ele-of such rouge, (when unadulterated with lead,) that when gant woman."-P. 12-15. the blood does mount to the face, it speaks through the slight The allusion in the last part of this extract to the covering, and enhances the fading bloom. But, though the ridiculous attempts which some people make to dress occasional use of rouge may be tolerated, yet my fair friends themselves up in all the fashions of earth, and all the co-must understand that it is only tolerated. Good sense must lours of heaven, is painfully just. The virgin or the so preside over its application, that its tint on the cheek bride, (and who shall say which is the more lovely of the may always be fainter than what nature's pallet would have two,) in endeavouring to increase her charms in the eyes disgusting objects to the eye. The excessive red on the face painted. A violently rouged woman is one of the most of some virtuous lover or proud and affectionate husband, gives a coarseness to every feature, and a general fierceness is but obeying one of the ends of her creation. "But to the countenance, which transforms the elegant lady of when the wrinkled fair, the hoary-headed matron, at- fashion into a vulgar harridane tempts to equip herself for conquest, to awaken sentiments, which, when the bloom on her cheek has disap-mit, should be laid on with delicacy, my readers must not peared, her rouge can never recall; and when, despite of suppose that I intend such advice as a means of making the all her efforts, we can perceive memento more written on an apparel of the face, (a kind of decent veil thrown over art a deception. It seems to me so slight, and so innocent her face, then we cannot but deride her folly, or in pity the cheek, rendered too eloquent of grief by the pallidness counsel her rather to seek for charms, the mental graces of secret sorrow,) that I cannot see any shame in the most of Madame de Sevignè, than the meretricious arts of Ninon ingenious female acknowledging that she occasionally rouges. de l'Enclos." There is not, in good sooth, a more dis- It is often, like a cheerful smile on the face of an invalid, gusting sight than a creature of this kind. She has com- put on to give comfort to an anxious friend. monly red hair, and a large mouth, and a prodigious bo-should not feed, like a worm, on the bud it affects to bright"That our applications to this restorer of our usual looks som, which she wears quite uncovered, and a dumpy per-en, no rouge must ever be admitted that is impregnated son, and a smile like the reflection of a washerwoman's face with even the smallest particle of ceruse. It is the lead which in a tin cover. Yet the poor object conceives that she is is the poison of white paint; and its mixture with the red gaining universal admiration, when, in point of fact, she would render that equally noxious."-P. 40-2. is the ridicule or contempt of the whole world. Let old maids and married matrons cover their persons with as

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The transition from the cheek to the lip is not difficult, and, in our humble opinion, the lip is one of the most

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sacred and interesting features of the female form. There ought to be but one opinion upon this subject. The female lip, that has been profaned by the touch of any man save one, (unless it be some near and dear relation,) ought to lose all honour and respect. "Tis sweet, as Moore

says,

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"To breathe on those innocent lips,

That never were breathed on by any but thine" but when a lady becomes a prodigal of her kisses, we are instantly forced into one of two conclusions either that she holds her virtue upon a very frail tenure, or that, al-scrupulousness of Count M

though far removed from any thought of guilt, she is altogether incapable of that delicate feeling, and of drawWorse, perhaps, than even promiscuous kissing, is the ing those nicer distinctions, by the due observance of which alone regard becomes in any instance valuable. immodest manner in which some ladies, misled either by Kissing is more common in England than in Scotland, charms of their bosom and back. fashion, or a a diseased vanity, scruple not to unveil the How little do such and in France still more common than in England. In these countries it is often a piece of idle etiquette; but it of beauty consists! Modesty is to it what action is to persons understand in what the real eloquence and power is bad etiquette, for it tends to rub the bloom of modesty away, and to deaden the susceptibilities of the female the orator; it is its first, its second, and its third argu heart. What remains for the husband, if the lips the ment. Without modesty, there can be, in truth, no beauty, very outlet of the soul-have mingled their breath of life in the same way that without mind, the body would be Ja piece of worthless inert clay. We do not agree with with the breath of others? 1 ༢། ༈ཏཱ་སྟ། ཧཱིནདྷར་ཙ་ ཨིན the advice given by the poet to the fair sex→

.

*** 746

**

} "Let that which charms all other eyes,
Seem worthless in your own,"

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"Who cannot love but one alone, Is worthy to be loved by none." Our sentiments upon this matter perfectly coincide with those of our authoress, as will be seen in the following for this might lead to the too great diminution of 'that' extract: "} 1 7 Tahit proper self-respect which is the very foundation of a virKISSING—ANECDOTE OF COUNT Mtuous character; but we certainly agree so far, that she "As to the salute, the pressure of the lips that is an in who attempts to charm all eyes, by an unblushing disterchange of affectionate greeting, or tender farewell, sacred play of beauties which are usually concealed from the to the dearest connexions alone. Our parents our brothers vulgar gaze, instead of exciting admiration, ought only to -our near kindred-our husband our loyer, ready to become our husband-our bosom's inmate, the friend of our obtain contempt. Concerning the exposure of the bosom, heart's core, to them are exclusively consecrated the lips of we feel particularly sensitive. Beyond a certain limit, delicacy, and woe be to her who yields them to the stain of we hesitate not to pronounce it unpardonably meretriprofanation! cious. We entirely approve of the passage subjoined:

32.

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"By the last word, I do not mean the embrace of vice, but "To the exposure of the bosom and back, as some ladies merely that indiscriminate facility which some young wo display those parts of their person, what shall we say? This men have in permitting what they call a good-natured kiss. mode (like every other which is carried to excess and indisThese good-natured kisses have often very bad effects, and criminately followed) is not only repugnant to decency, but can never be permitted without injuring the fine gloss of most exceedingly disadvantageous to the charms of nine wothat exquisite modesty which is the fairest garb of virgin men out of ten, The bosom and shoulders of a very young beauty. and fair girl may be displayed without exciting much dis"I remember the Count M, one of the most accom-pleasure or disgust; the beholder regards the too prodigal plished and handsomest young men in Vienna. When I exhibition, not as the act of the youthful innocent, but as was there, he was passionately in love with a girl of almost the effect of accident, or perhaps the designed exposure of peerless beauty. She was the daughter of a man of great some ignorant dresser. But when a woman, grown to the rank and influence at court, and on these considerations, as age of discretion, of her own choice unveils her beauties well as in regard to her charms, she was followed by a mul- to the sun and moon,' then, from even an Helen's charms titude of suitors. She was lively and amiable, and treated the sated eye turns away loathing. them all with an affability which still kept them in her train, although it was generally known that she had avowed a predilection for Count M, and that preparations were sparing of their attractions. An unrestrained indulgence making for their nuptials. The Count was of a refined of the eye robs imagination of her power, and prevents her mind and delicate sensibility. He loved her for herself consequent influence on the heart. And if this be the case alone-for the virtues which he believed dwelt in a beauti-where real beauty is exposed, how much more subversive ful form; and, like a lover of such perfections, he never ap- of its aim must be the studied display of an ordinary or deproached her without timidity, and when he touched her, a formed figure!"-Pp. 77, 8. fire shot through his veins, that warned him not to invade While our authoress thus properly expresses herself con→ the vermilion sanctuary of her lips. Such were his feelings, when one night, at his intended father-in-law's, a party of cerning the latitude allowed to female modesty, we must young people were met to celebrate a certain festival. Se-point out an instance in which, we think, she has gone a veral of the young lady's rejected suitors were present. For little too far, and borders upon prudery. We allude to feits were one of the pastimes, and all went on with the the matter of shaking hands. That any man, except a greatest merriment, till the Count was commanded, by some lover, has a right to seize upon a lady's hand, and retain witty mademoiselle, to redeem his glove by saluting the it in his own, is of course not for a moment to be maincheek of his intended bride. The Count blushed, trembled, tained; but that a lady in England or Scotland should advanced to his mistress, retreated, advanced again--and at

"Were we even in a frantic and impious passion to set virtue aside, policy should direct our damsels to be more

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last, with a tremor that shook every fibre in his frame, with refuse to shake hands with almost any person whom she a modest grace he put the soft ringlet which played upon meets in good society, we hold equally preposterous. Were her cheek to his lips, and retired to demand his redeemed the following advice, for example, to be adopted, a stiff pledge in evident confusion. His mistress gaily smiled, and and freezing manner would be the consequence: the game went on. One of her rejected suitors, but who was of a merry, unthinking disposition, was adjudged, by the same indiscreet crier of the forfeitsas his last treat before he hanged himself,' she said-to snatch a kiss from the lips of the object of his recent vows

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'Lips, whose broken sighs such fragrance fling, As love had fanned them freshly with his wing!'

"A lively contest between the lady and the gentleman lasted for a minute; but the lady yielded, though in the midst of a convulsive laugh. And the Count had the morand delicate love would not allow him to touch, kissed with tification-the agony to see the lips, which his passionate roughness and repetition by another man, and one whom he despised. Without a word, he rose from his chair, left the room and the house; and, by that good-natured kiss, the fair boast of Vienna lost her husband and her lover. The Count never saw her more."-Pp. 132-5.

Some persons may be disposed to smile at the extreme -; but his feelings were of a nature, which we can perfectly appreciate, and which, on the whole, we are inclined to respect.

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friendship or of kindred to address her with an air of affec"When any man, who is not privileged by the right of tion, attempts to take her hand, let her withdraw it immediately, with an air so declarative of displeasure, that he shall not presume to repeat the offence. At no time ought she to volunteer shaking hands with a male acquaintance, who holds not any particular bond of esteem with regard

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