Munich artist, Schraudolph, to adorn its walls with a number of frescoes. The middle nave is occupied by twenty-four scenes in the life of the Blessed Virgin; the north transept is devoted to St. Stephen; and the south to St. Bernard. The choir also contains colossal statues of Rudolph of Hapsburg, and Adolf of Nassau; the first by Schwanthaler, executed in Tyrolese marble; the second by Ohmacht, a Strasburg artist, in sandstone. The emperor Rudolph is represented as the restorer of civil order, after the stormy period of the interregnum, the helmet lying at his feet, and the sword in his right hand. Adolf is represented in a kneeling attitude; his footstool, of black marble, rests on four winged lions. Above the door of the sacristy in the choir are ancient stone effigies of the emperors, brought up from the crypt and placed there about fifty years ago.

STRASBURG.

[Hotels: Stadt Paris in the Meissenstrasse ; Rothes Hause, on the Kleberplatz, Blume, at the Kaufhaus. The Rebstock, on the Langenstock, and the Rabe, now Hotel d'Angleterre, are good secondrate houses, with moderate charges.]

STRASBURG, the Argentoratum of the Romans, was, after its restoration by the Franks, in the sixth century, called Stratoburgum, formerly the capital of nether Alsace, and one of the most important of the imperial German cities; it is now the chief town of the French department of the Bas-Rhine. It lies almost half an hour's walk from the river, with which it is connected by a canal. Louis XIV. seized it in 1681, in the midst of profound peace, retained it by the treaty of Ryswick, and in 1682 sent Vauban to construct there a citadel, so that it is now one of the most important fortresses of France, and ranks the third among her great magazines. The garrison lying here usually numbers 6000 men, the population of the city is 68,000, of whom 30,000 are Catholics, as many Protestants, and the remaining 8000, Jews. Notwithstanding that for a century and a half Strasburg has been French, German is still the popular language.

The first thing inquired after at Strasburg, by travellers, is the famous minster. The first cathedral built here by Clodwig, about 510, was destroyed by lightning, June 24th, 1006. Eight years afterwards, Werner of Hapsburg laid the foundation-stone of the new edifice, which was not completed before 1277. Two years after this date, was commenced the erection of the tower, after the plan and under the direction of the celebrated middle-age architect, Erwin von Steinbach. Erwin died in 1318, and his son John continued the work, which his daughter embellished with some elegant designs. The tower was finally completed in 1439, by Johannes

Hulz of Cologne; scarcely another cathedral is so well calculated to display the gradual growth of the Gothic architecture, out of the late Romanic style to its highest and most perfect development, and, on the other hand, the progress of subsequent degeneration, as that of Strasburg. The dim light of the interior makes a wonderful impression upon the senses. It is admitted by coloured windows, some of which are executed with surprising art; the internal length of the church is 355 feet, its breadth 132 feet; the vaulting of the choir is pointed, except that of the chain, which is round. The columns fly upwards, at once slender and strong, and are partially ornamented with statues. All is great and simple, and at the same time nobly adorned. Particular objects worthy of attention are, the great rose corridor over the portal; the font, constructed in 1453; and the pulpit of the same date. The famous astronomic clock never fails to attract the attention of strangers. In the first gallery the hours are struck by an angel, upon a bell which he holds in his hand; higher up are seen, a skeleton, which also strikes the hours, and boys, girls, and young and old men, who strike the four quarters. Below the first gallery the symbolic deity of the day appears from a niche; thus Apollo on Sunday, Diana on Monday, and so on. the highest niche, upon the striking of the clock, the twelve apostles move about the Saviour, and upon the top of a turret, built for the motive weights, stands a fine cock, which flaps his wings, swells his neck, throws back his head, opens his mouth, and makes his cry echo through the cathedral in all the shrillness of perfect nature.

In

The gravestone of Erwin is in the small court behind the chapel of St. John. Figures of the great master, and his artistic daughter, have been erected in the southern portal. The principal front of the minster is adorned with statues of Clodwig, Dagobert, and Rudolph of Hapsburg, to which one of Louis XIV. was added in 1823. Several hundred statues were pulled down and destroyed at the era of the first French revolution. The cathedral tower is the highest building in Europe, being 490 feet from the ground, thus 171 feet higher than St. Paul's, and 62 feet higher than St. Peter's at Rome. The light, almost transparent architecture of the tower, its union of sublimity and ornament, are indescribable. The minster is an object of great solicitude to the Strasburgers. A civic commission watches over its revenues, and every damage is quickly repaired. The spire has suffered much at various epochs from lightning: a network of conductors now surrounds it, and, it is hoped, will secure it against further injury from meteorological causes. A number of distinguished names are met with, cut in the stone of the tower: among them those of Goethe, Necker, Lavater, Klopstock, Ehrmann, and Engel. Voltaire caused his name to be cut upon one of the stones near the entrance to the clock. In 1798, the electric fluid struck the stone, and left the significant syllable—'taire.'

In the Gutenbergplatz stands a statue of Gutenberg, by the artist David. The figure is not a happy one: it wants repose. Gutenberg seems to stand in doubt, as if asking the spectator whether he acknowledges the importance of the invention of printing. The inordinate vanity of the French is inscribed on the scroll which is placed in the hands of the statue. This German inventor stands in the midst of a German-speaking population, and the words on his scroll are French-Et la lumière fut.

The University of Strasburg has produced some eminent men. Goethe, surrounded by such fellow-students as Herder, Lenz, Stilling, and others scarcely less eminent, concluded here his juridical studies, and took his doctor's degree in 1772. The university has since been metamorphosed into an Académie Royale. The theological seminary, a preparatory school for theological students, is regarded by Germany as the chair of the university, from the preference for German science by which it is characterized.

A statue to Kleber, a native of Strasburg, stands in the Paradeplatz. On one side of this square is the Horse Guards of Strasburg. Here we have an opportunity of remarking the characteristics of the various arms of the French service: the red-hosed infantry of the line, the proud and stately artillery, and the small, close-knit, and nimble Orleans jagers, upon whose countenance the hot sun of Africa has left its tint. The exercises are well worth attending by those who have time to spare.

Omnibuses run from the Klebersplatz and Gutenbergplatz to Kehl, every hour. The Alsace railroad communicates with Basle; the trains perform the journey in five hours. The fares are about 15f., 11f., and 74f. for the three different classed carriages. The traveller may cross by Kehl to the Baden line, if he has seen the country on the left bank, and reach Basle by Freiburg.

Diligences or eilwagen leave for Epinal, at half-past 3 P.M. (14 hours' journey); for Lyons, at 8 P.M. (60 hours); for Paris, at 3 P.M. (42 hours). The offices are No. 101 and 107 in the old Fischmarkt, and at No. 46, Kleberplatz.

TERMONDE.

[Hotels: De l'Aigle; De la Demi-lune.]

TERMONDE (in Flemish, Dendermonde, signifying mouth of the Dender) is situated on the right bank of the Scheldt, at the confluence of the Dender with that river. It is the capital of a district of East Flanders, and is almost equi-distant from Gand, Brussels, Malines, and Antwerp, with which it communicates by good roads, now happily replaced by the railway. It is a fortified town, and the works are maintained in a very efficient state: its population is about 8000.

The origin of Termonde is very remote; it is stated to have preceded the era of Charlemagne. Certainly it existed before the Norman invasion. The town was extended in 1368 under Count Louis de Maele, and the citadel was constructed in 1584 by order of the Duke of Parma. Louis XIV. laid siege to Termonde in 1667 with 60,000 men; but the besieged having raised the sluices of the river, he was compelled to retire. General Churchill, brother of the Duke of Marlborough, took it in 1706, and the French again in

1745.

Termonde has four churches, containing some good pictures. The Hotel de Ville is worth visiting. The society of the town supports the arts, and the stranger may visit several private picture-galleries. Teniers was married in this town, and long lived here; the house in which he resided is shown in the Rue d'Eglise; and a fresco, painted by him, is exhibited over the fire-place of the saloon.

TIRLEMONT.

[Hotels Hotel du Noble; Hotel du Plat-d'Etain.]

TIRLEMONT, (in Flemish, Thienen,) is situated on the Grand Gette. It was formerly a place of considerable population, judging from the great extent of its enceinte, which is more than two leagues in circumference, and, like Louvain, includes cultivated fields. The number of its present population is not greater than 8000.

THE GRAND PLACE is one of the largest squares in Belgium. It contains the Hotel de Ville, and the church of Notre Dame du Lac. The church of St. Germain, built on the summit of an eminence which commands the town, is a monument of much more importance in the history of the first centuries of Christian architecture. The tower is Roman, and is a model of that style. It dates probably from the ninth century.

VERVIERS.

[Hotels Hotel des Pays Bas; Place du Spectacle; Hotel de Flandre, Rue de Moulin; Hotel de France, Rue de l'Harmonie. At each of these there is a table d'hôte at one.]

Although VERVIERS has existed for several centuries, an antiquity of ten centuries being claimed for the church of St. Remacle, there exists no ruin or memorial which attests that it ever had any importance whatsoever. It is known to have formed part of the Marquisate of Franchimont, ceded in the eleventh century to the Bishop of Liege, and that it only obtained the right to vote in the estates of the bishopric in 1651. Its present prosperity is owing to the cloth manufacture, which has greatly increased in extent during the last

few years, and now produces a hundred pieces per annum. The chief establishments are those of MM. Biolley and Simoins.

Nothing can be said of the church, or the Hotel de Ville, beyond the fact that the first was constructed a few years ago, at the expense of some of the great manufacturers; and the latter, in 1744, after the designs of Kenoz, an architect of Liege.

WATERLOO.

Few English travellers quit the environs of Brussells, without paying a visit to the field of Waterloo. Diligences and coaches run every day to La Haye Sainte, which is as nearly as may be in the middle of the field. Carriages may also be hired from a stand; but the driver must be especially bound to proceed to some specific point. La Belle Alliance, as being the remotest, is the best-as otherwise he will stop at Mont St. Jean, which leaves a long walk to be accomplished before the field can be inspected.

The original features of the ground, where the centre of the English line had its position, at the last desperate effort by the enemy, are entirely obliterated; and the ridge which formed a part of Mont St. Jean is now levelled down with the rest of the plain. This was done for the purpose of obtaining a sufficient quantity of earth to form the great mound, on which the colossal bronze figure, which may serve either as the British or Belgic Lion, is supported. The pedestal bears the simple inscription, " June 18, 1815." and the lion have equally been the subjects of ill-natured censure; but the one, containing the bones of friends and foes who fell in that dreadful day, and the other, composed of cannon taken from the enemy, would appear to be strictly appropriate, " as being at once a memorial, a trophy, and a tomb." The mound is placed on the spot where the Prince of Orange received his wound.

The mound

The village of Waterloo is in the rear of the field, and close to the forest of Soignies. The trees are principally of beech, and some of them very fine; but the wood is fit for nothing but fuel, and is used solely for that purpose.

HOUGOMONT is a conspicuous feature of the great field of Waterloo, and a name familiarly used in speaking of the famous battle; in course of time it will be forgotten that this is a mere mistake, said to have originated with the great general who achieved the victory, catching up from the peasantry around the sound of Château Goumont, the real name of the little rural demesne in question. Nobody doubts, however, the right of the "Great Duke" to call a place he has made so famous by any name he might please to apply, and so Hougomont it will remain while history lasts.

The field of Waterloo is an open undulating plain; and on the day of the battle it was covered with splendid crops of rye, wheat,

T