Baden, Carlsruhe, Frankfort, Strasburg, &c. Instead of going by rail, the traveller who wishes to see the grandest features of the Black Forest, may go from Freiburg to Schauffhausen, by Eilwagen.

GHENT.

[Hotels The principal of these in Ghent are, the Hotel de la Poste, and the Hotel Royale, both in the Place d'Armes. The former, adjoining the theatre, is a princely mansion, with first-rate fare. There are beside, the Hotel de Vienne, Marché aux Grains, a house much used by the people of the place, very comfortable, and reasonable in its charges. Hotel de Pays Bas, also in the Marché aux Grains, Hotel Lion d'Or, Place du Lion d'Or. There are several restaurants; the best are Chapeau Rouge, Petite Turquie, near S. Nicholas, and the Maison d'Autriche, rue des Marais. The best Cafés are, des Arcades, Suisse, and Bellevue, all on the Place d'Armes.]

What Guicciardini said of Ghent, after his visit to that city in 1535, is, to a great extent, applicable to it at the present day. "This town," said the historian," is strong and beautiful, and one of the largest in Europe, having extensive suburbs, and compared by many to the magnificent and populous city of Milan; its circumference will be found to measure ten miles." * The town contains 95,000 inhabitants, and is divided, by its numerous canals, into twenty-six islands, which are crossed by eighty bridges of wood and stone. The number of churches, monasteries, hospitals, and other such buildings, amounts to fifty-five.

THE CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF ST. BAVON is remarkable for its fine Gothic architecture and superb specimens of sculpture which adorn the interior. The pulpit is a beautiful piece of workmanship, surmounted by the tree of life covered with golden fruit; it was consecrated in 841 by the Bishop of Tournay, and rebuilt in the thirteenth century. The roof of the great nave was burnt in 1641, and a similar fate befel it in 1822. It was originally dedicated to St. John, and only took the name of St. Bavon in 1540. The present choir, together with the subterraneous church, were built in 1228. The four brazen candlesticks which stand in front of the altar formerly belonged to Charles I., and they still bear the royal arms of England; the original spire, which rose 93 feet above the tower, was destroyed by lightning in 1603. From the platform on the top of the present tower there is a splendid view of the surrounding country; and on a clear day, the churches of Antwerp, Malines,

* This explains the rather hyperbolical saying of Charles V., who used to remark, that he would put Paris into his glove. "Je mettrai Paris dans mon Gand," (gant) the word Gand, Ghent, and (gant) glove, being pronounced exactly the same.

Bruges, and Brussels, may be clearly seen. The interior of this church, which is one of the finest in Belgium, has no doubt suffered much from the numerous changes which the town has undergone; still it is one of the best adorned temples in Christendom: the chapels and choir, which is enclosed by massive copper-gilt gates, ought to be carefully inspected. They contain many rarities and treasures, in pictures, marbles, and precious metals, nowhere else to be met with; the nave and choir are surrounded by twenty-four chapels. We shall notice only those that contain the most remarkable objects. The first contains a painting of "The Beheading of St. John," by G. de Crayer; the third contains a clever painting, "The Baptism of Christ," by Decaver, a modern artist, a native of Ghent; the next worth notice is the sixth, which contains an excellent picture, by Francis Pombus, "Christ in the midst of the Doctors." In this picture, the portraits of Charles II., Philip his son, and the painter, are introduced this was a common practice at the date at which the work was executed. The picture in the seventh chapel, “The Martyrdom of St. Barbara," is a fine painting, by de Crayer; in the eighth, is a composition, by Van Der Menin, a pupil of Van Eyck, "Our Saviour between two Thieves ;" the eleventh, known as La Chapelle de l'Agneau, demands particular attention. The picture which ornaments this chapel is by the brothers Van Eyck, and is a good specimen of the Flemish school; the subject is taken from the Apocalypse, and represents the celestial Lamb, surrounded by four groups of angels. The whole picture is filled with personages from the Old Testament. This picture was carried off by Napoleon, and reclaimed by the Allies, by whom it was restored minus six of the pendants, which had fallen into the hands of people, who did not know their value, and sold for six thousand francs. They now adorn the cabinet of the King of Prussia, who paid 410,000 francs for them. Some idea may be formed of the value of the picture itself, when these accessories are so highly esteemed. From the Chapel of the Lamb we next proceed to Nos. 12 and 13, which are adorned with pictures by Henthorn, de Roos, de Crayer, and de Cleet. No. 14 contains a picture, by Rubens, the only one in any of the churches of Ghent; it represents the reception of St. Bavon into the Abbey of St. Amand. This picture was carried off by the French, and restored in 1815; after which it was placed in the gallery at Brussels, and eventually found its way to its present position. The fifteenth chapel contains a picture, by Otto Verrier, "The Resurrection of Lazarus;" and the sixteenth, "The Martyrdom of St. Lieven," by G. Leghers, one of that master's best productions. The twenty-first and twenty-second chapels have each a picture, by de Crayer; and the twenty-fourth, a fine "Descent from the Cross," by a pupil of Rubens, T. Rombouts. There are four splendid mausoleums in the choir, to the memory of four

bishops; that of the Bishop of Trieste, by Duquesnoy, is the finest. Before leaving the cathedral, we recommend a visit to the subterranean church, or crypt, which is immediately under the choir, and is divided into fifteen chapels, adorned by some pictures. There are several tombs, and the whole appearance reminds one of the primitive period of Christianity. Hubert Van Eyck and his sister Margaret are buried here.

THE CHURCH OF ST. NICHOLAS, in the Marché aux Grains, is said to be the oldest in the town. The chief pictures are, the Consecration of St. Nicholas, by Roose, a copy from Rubens, of "Christ in the Sepulchre." One of the pillars of this church, the fifth on the left, bears an inscription to the memory of " Oliver Minjau, his wife, and their thirty-one children.' When Charles V. entered Ghent, he noticed Minjau and his family group in uniform, as they formed part of a procession, and learned the particulars of him and his almost incredible offspring. He settled upon him a pension; and shortly after, a deadly disease attacked them, and carried off the whole race they are interred, side by side, in the burying ground of the church.

ST. MICHAEL. This church is in the centre of the town, and is very ancient, like most other churches in Belgium; its steeple was never completed. It contains a few pictures worthy of notice; one, in particular, of " Our Saviour on the Cross," by Vandyck.

Close to the church of St. Michael is the Oratory of the Dominicans, founded in 1220. It formerly possessed a valuable library, which was destroyed by the Iconoclasts in 1566. The painter, G. de Crayer, is interred in this church.

ST. JACQUES. This church is in a large square, formerly a cemetery. The paintings are all by modern artists, and scarcely deserve mention. There is a pyx of massive gold, ornamented with diamonds and other precious stones; it is very ancient and curious.

There are many other churches, none of which deserve especial mention, if we except St. Martin and St. Etienne, both of which contain master-pieces by de Crayer. We shall next direct the traveller to the Convent of the Beguinage, which was founded by St. Begge, duchess of Brabant, and sister to Pepin of Landen, who died in 689. The order of Beguines is peculiar to the Netherlands. Pope Clement V. issued a bull against this order, but they were protected by John XXII., and Joseph II., at the suppression of the religious houses, made an exception in favour of the order. The legality of their existence was ratified in 1826. Among the conditions imposed upon the Beguines is that of preserving the ancient Flemish faille, and of carrying their own dead to the grave. Each sister has her small house distinct from the rest, and over the entrance is placed the name of a saint. The establishment of which we are now speaking, in the Rue de Bruges, is one of the most remarkable in

the country. It was founded in the year 1234, by Joanna of Constantinople. When the first chapel was built in 1242, they were subject to pay an annual tribute to the abbey of St. Bavon. The present convent is surrounded by a wall, round which runs a ditch of stagnant water; in the centre of the enclosure rises conspicuous the elegant church, around which the diminutive houses of the sisters, some having small gardens attached, form several peaceful streets. The best time to visit the church, which is particularly neat, but contains no work of art of any merit, is during the service, when the members of the community, to the number of 600, assemble. The smaller establishment of the same order, called Notre Dame au Pre, was founded by the same pious princess. It is intended for the reception of young persons whose poverty excluded them from entering another order; its inmates number about 400. The sisters of this order are treated with profound respect by the townspeople.

THE TOWN HALL, abutting upon the Rue Haute Porte and the Marché au Beurre, is one of the finest of the ancient monuments in Belgium, or perhaps in Europe. The most remarkable feature in this building is the strange mixture of the different orders of architecture; the façade is chiefly composed of the Ionic, Doric, and Corinthian styles; while that portion of the building, seen from the Rue Haute Porte, which remains unfinished, is in the very best taste and keeping, covered with fantastic ornaments most elaborately wrought, and is, without doubt, one of the best specimens of Gothic architecture extant. The date of the building is 1481. Several most interesting events in history have taken place in the throne-room, which is still the hall of state. The belfry, near the town-hall, is a most interesting building; it is now used as a prison. It was built by the citizens in 1183 as a watch-tower, but subsequently used as a belfry, from which, upon almost every occasion of revolt, the tocsin was sounded. The weight of the great bell, which is in the middle tower, is 11,000 lbs.; the other four towers contain the carillons. There was formerly a bell in one of the towers, which had received the name of Roland; its weight was 12,483 lbs.; it bore an inscription in Flemish, intimating that when it tolled it was for a fire, and when it rang that there was a tempest approaching. The building is surmounted by a brass dragon, which was brought in triumph from Constantinople by the people of Bruges, from whom it was taken by the citizens of Ghent. At the birth of Charles V. a rope-gallery was formed from the top of the Church of St. Nicholas to the summit of the belfry, along which perilous route the citizens used to pass; at night the bridge was illuminated. Charles V. entered the city on his birthday, 25th of February, 1540, and the Duke of Alva, who was among his followers, advised him to destroy the city, but Charles, taking the

prince to the top of the belfry, pointed out to him the beauty and extent of the town, and then asked him how many Spanish skins it would take to make such a glove (gant) as that?

THE PALACE of the UNIVERSITY stands on the site of the old church of the Jesuits. The principal room, called the Hall of Promotion, is of circular form, and is surrounded at the lower part by rows of seats in the form of an amphitheatre: it is a magnificent room, and affords accommodation for from 1600 to 1700 persons. There are, besides the different lecture rooms, a theatre of anatomy, a cabinet of comparative anatomy, and one of anatomical preparations. There is also a library open to the public daily from 9 to 12, and from 2 to 5 in the afternoon; it consists of about 60,000 volumes, and various curious manuscripts.

THE BOTANICAL GARDEN is likewise dependent on the University, and was founded in 1797; it is limited in extent, but is one of the most complete in Belgium.

THE ACADEMY OF FINE ARTS is in the building of the old College of the Augustines, and is attended by upwards of 700 pupils. There is a good picture-gallery made up from the spoils taken from the suppressed religious houses; it may be visited by strangers daily.

THE THEATRE, which was erected at the expense of the town, is one of the finest in Europe; adjoining this there is a concertroom and a magnificent ball-room.

THE CASINO ROOMS in the Horticultural Gardens are used for meetings of the Botanical Society; to the building, which is of beautiful architecture, there is a large garden, extending along the front, opening in different places upon the public promenade called la Coupure.

THE GOVERNMENT HOUSE.-The present building is quite modern; its origin is of ancient date. Mention is made of the Government House as the court of St. Bavon, in 1581, at which date it was inhabited by the Prince of Orange; Napoleon also had his residence here; it is now the abode of the governor of the provincial administrations.

THE PRISON was founded by Maria Theresa, in 1772, and considerably enlarged by King William; it is capable of accommodating 1200 prisoners, and is allowed to be one of the best regulated gaols known, and has served as a model both to England and America. Permission to visit the prison may be had at the office of the provincial government.

THE MARCHE DU VENDREDI is an extensive square surrounded by ancient houses; the building opposite the Petite Rue du Serpent was used for measuring the cloths brought to market; if any of the pieces are found defective they are affixed to an enormous iron ring, which may be seen, and are afterwards given to the