rods, at least, about the house; this may lay between the house and garden. When there is but a small surface to grass over, it may be done with turf, if it can be obtained of a good quality, which is not often the case. The best way is to begin at the beginning, and do the work up thoroughly. First see that the ground is well prepared by deep digging or trenching; for it is in vain to expect the lawn to preserve its greenness in summer, unless the soil is pulverized so that the roots of the grass may penetrate two feet deep. After the soil is thus prepared and levelled, it should be left to settle a week or ten days; then it should be raked off smooth, and it will be ready for the seed. The New England red-top, or bent grass, alone, makes the finest lawn for this climate; but if it is desirable to give immediate effect to the lawn, there should be a mixture of white Dutch clover. Three bushels of red-top to ten pounds of white clover, or four bushels of red-top without it, is none too much for an acre. This may seem a heavy seeding, but it is none too much. should be rolled with a heavy roller.

After sowing the seed, it

To have a fine lawn, it is necessary not only to mow it often, but roll it also, especially after a rain. By doing thus, a close texture and fine velvety turf may be obtained.

REMARKS ON THE CULTIVATION OF PEREN

NIALS, BIENNIALS, AND ANNUALS.

"A flowery crown will I compose —
I'll weave the Crocus, weave the Rose;
I'll weave Narcissns, newly wet,

The Hyacinth and Violet;

The Myrtle shall supply me green,

And Lilies laugh in light between ;

That the rich tendrils of my beauty's hair

May burst into their crowning flowers, and light the painted air."

PERENNIALS are those plants which do not in their growth form either trees or shrubs, but which lose their tops, wholly or in part, every year, after they have done flowering; the roots continuing to live and generate for several years successively.

Biennials are those plants that flower the second and sometimes the third year from the time the seeds are sown, and then perish, as the Hollyhock.

Imperfect Perennials continue three or more years, and then die, as the Sweet William or Fox Glove, but which, with a little care in dividing the roots every year, can be kept many years.

Perennials are hardy, half-hardy, and tender. Hardy perennials stand the hardest winter without protection; halfhardy require to be well protected; and tender perennials must be kept through the winter in the green-house.

Perennials are of two kinds, bulbous and herbaceous, which, differing materially from each other in habits, require, consequently, a different kind of treatment. Such being the case,

a few remarks will be made on each kind separately.

BULBOUS PERENNIALS.

They are of three kinds, — viz., hardy, or such as grow in the open border; half-hardy, such as will not stand out over winter, or requiring a frame or the green-house; and stove, or those that will not grow to perfection without artificial heat. Of these last we shall have nothing to say. Many of the halfhardy are perfected when planted in the open ground in the spring, and are sometimes called spring bulbs, as the Gladiolus, &c.

The Anemone and Ranunculus, are half-hardy, requiring the protection of a frame or otherwise.

Hardy bulbs, with few exceptions, are remarkably easy of cultivation, and, if planted in proper soil and situation, seldom fail to produce plenty of offsets and seeds for propagation.

The best kind of soil for their growth is a light loam, rather sandy than otherwise, yet not too light, or the bulbs will be injured during the heat of summer, and, if adhesive, they invariably grow weakly, and seldom flower.

As to the depth the different bulbs require to be planted in the ground, no certain rule can be laid down, as some species require to be planted from three to five inches, while others not more than one and a half, deep. The different depths will be given as each variety in species is described.

Encourage as much as possible the growth of the leaves, by giving them free exposure to light and air; for on the full development of these depends the success of the bulbs flowering another year. If the leaves grow strong, a good quantity of strong pulp is stored up in the bulbs, and a good bloom is the consequence.

Never, if it can be avoided, disturb the roots by removal during their growth; but if obliged to do so, select a wet day, and take them up with good balls, so as not to injure the fibrous roots.

The only time to remove them with success, is during the time of their torpidity, at which time the offsets may

PERENNIALS AND BIENNIALS.

35

be separated, and planted where the cultivator may judge best.

The season of rest, for most bulbs, happens shortly after they have done flowering. Tulip and Hyacinth bulbs are generally ripe in about one month from the time of flowering. As soon as the foliage of the Tulip turns purple and begins to dry, the bulbs may be taken up; and, with the Hyacinth, before the foliage is fully decayed. As a general rule, when the tops have quite died down, the bulbs may be taken up and separated.

With the exception of Tulips, Hyacinths, Narcissus, and some others, most hardy bulbs are injured if kept long out of ground, as the Lily tribe, Crown Imperial, &c. It is best to plant immediately offsets of bulbs, of every description, for if kept long out of ground they become exhausted and perish. Bulbs that have commenced growing, before planting, are always weakened; yet ignorant purchasers will frequently select such because they look more lively. If they have made much growth, the bulb will not flower at all.

Some tuberous roots are classed with bulbous roots. Strictly speaking, it is not correct, but for convenience sake we shall so consider them. The Dahlia and Peony are, properly, tuberous roots. Of these, directions for cultivation will be given when described.

HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS AND BIENNIALS.

The mode of cultivating this class of plants is perfectly. easy; three things chiefly have to be attended to. First, the manner of propagation. Second, the most suitable soil. Third, the requisite temperature. There are five methods of propagation practised: by divisions, suckers, layers, seeds, and cuttings.

Dividing the Roots. This may be done either with a kind of knife, if the plant is small, or a spade, if it is strong and large. The best time for doing it is when the tops are just beginning to grow after having been cut down.

The roots may be divided in the spring, or almost any time (with some species) during the summer, after flowering. The month of August is a proper time for many kinds, as the divisions will take strong hold before winter, and be prepared to flower strongly the next year.

Suckers. These may be taken up at any time when they appear, but the most usual time is when the plant is beginning to grow.

Seed. Sow, for the most part, in early spring, in light soil, and plant out in the following autumn in the situations where they are to flower. Many of the fine double and other varieties never produce seed.

Layers and Cuttings. — Thrifty, succulent shoots, if partly cut through, and pegged down, and covered with earth, will take root, as is the case with the Pinks and Carnations. Cuttings of many plants will take root, with proper care.

Soil. - Different species of plants require rather different kinds of soil; but a light, rich loam will suit the greater part of plants.

Temperature. Hardy, half-hardy, and green-house plants require similar care, except the amount of protection or quantity of heat, to bring them into the most perfect state.

ANNUALS.

The plants generally known as annuals, are raised from the seed, perfect their flowers, mature their seed the same season, and then perish. There are some flowers, however, cultivated as annuals, that are such only in a northern climate, being in their own more congenial region perennials, or biennials. Among them are the Verbena, Chriseis, or Eschscholtzia, as it was formerly called, Commelina, Mirabilis, and many others. This class of annuals may be kept through the winter in greenhouses or in any light cellars. Annuals are most appropriate for those who are changing their abode from year to year, as from these alone a fine display may be kept up the whole sea