Ecolampadius for the Reformers. Zwingle wished much to come, but was in time warned that it would be unsafe. The majority of the meeting were Catholics, and without publishing any minutes of the debate, declared, with characteristic arrogance, that they had triumphed in the debate. "Let us see the minutes," said the Swiss people; but they were not forth-coming.

All this land is consecrated by deeds of heroic daring, by great struggles of truth against error, by the flames of martyrdom and the blood of martyrs. We long to visit many places which we cannot for want of time. Let no one think of visiting the Old World on a furlough; but take unlimited time, and then you can follow your inclinations, linger over ruins or scenes of classic interest, and indulge your fancy to satiety

LETTER XXVIII.

FRIEND S

:

FRANKFORT, August 21, 1850.

WE left Baden-Baden, or Baden of Baden, at nine o'clock, A. M., with many others who had seen the curiosities, bathed in the tepid waters, and some of whom had lost their money at the gaming tables, after hearing Bishop Spencer's warning against the seductions of the place. We took the cars for this city, intending to make but one stop, viz., at Heidelburg. A run of twenty-five miles capital of the Duchy of

brought us to Carlsrhue, the

Baden, and the residence of the Grand Duke.

But as I

had no desire to see him, I went through his capital without taking off my cap. This city is three and a half miles from the Rhine, and has a population of only twenty-four thousand,—a small affair for the capital of a kingdom. Our route here recedes from the river, which we left on our left hand, the plain stretching off to a great distance. The cities of Spires and Strasburg are on the left bank of

As we

the Rhine, and but just appear in the distance.

leave the river, the soil becomes poor, light, and sandy,

It is not, and cannot be,
We see our old acquaint-

much like our pine barrens. cultivated to any great extent. ance, the soldiers, all along the way; at each station, each little village, they are sauntering about nothing to do, and nobody to help them. I imagined they felt ashamed of their position. At least, I am sure I should; as much so as to be marching through the goodly city of Boston, followed by scores of boys and loafers, looking at my feather!

From Baden to Heidelburg the distance is about sixty miles. We reached the city about eleven o'clock, and stopped, intending to take an afternoon train for Frankfort, which is only about fifty miles distant from Heidelburg.

As our object in stopping here was to visit the celebrated castle, we immediately started for it without a guide. We could see it reposing in its sombre dignity on the mountain side, near the city; indeed, overlooking all the region.

Leaving the city on our left a little, we passed through a long avenue of fine shade trees, and striking into a road, which seemed to run in that direction, we soon found ourselves rising in the world; our steps became gradually shorter, and so with our breath.

Finding our road diverged too much from the direction of the ruins, we inquired of a countryman, and he pointed to the left. We struck into another road, and soon we found ourselves under the immense archway leading into

66

the court-yard, where a vast plateau of grass and wild shrubbery spread out before us. Here had been held many a tournament in the days of chivalry. As we entered the court, a beautiful stone archway fixed our attention, and a guide, whom we found here, informed us that it is called Queen Elizabeth's gateway," and was built to commemorate the visit of the queen to this castle. But who before knew that old queen Bess ever visited the Castle of Heidelburg? I conclude the poor fellow took us for John Bulls, and wished to flatter our vanity. Had he known we were Jonathans, he would probably have told us that it was built to celebrate Jackson's victory at New Orleans! We passed the great gateway into the court, through walls ten feet thick, with guard rooms on either hand. Here we found some women, who act the part of guides through the castle. Engaging one of them, she took a huge key, and leading the way down into a subterranean region, she opened the curiosity shop. Here the relics of other days were gathered. Old swords, spears, helmets, spurs, halberds, skulls, and I know not what beside. Winding, now, up a flight of crazy stone steps, we came to room after room, cold, dark, desolate, and deserted. What had they been, or who had occupied them? At last we came out upon the ruins of the grand tower, which the Vandal French blew up in 1689, and then the ruin was completed in 1764, when it was struck by lightning. From this point you look down some hundreds of feet into the valley below. The little river, the Necker, flows down through

the very

the valley, and off to the Rhine. In the distance, at the junction of these rivers, the city of Manheim, with numerous and lofty spires, appears in view. The front of the castle is nearly entire, the towers excepted. Passing along the wall, and descending the stone stairs again, we come to the little chapel, in a good state of repair. The plain wooden benches, the chair, the pulpit, are all here yet, and in good preservation, though so many years have passed since the Palatines and Electors worshipped here. At one end of the chapel is the confessional, box where the priest sat, and the little lattice at which his ear was placed to catch the whispered confession of some stalwart knight, or fair and jewelled lady. I looked in ;— shade of Tetzel!-there he sat before me! His large, lustrous eyes looking sternly upon me, his hands resting on his knees, and his ear at the lattice. But he listens in vain; no whispered confession enters his ear; no sob of penitent grief disturbs the silence, nor will ever again! His occupation's gone! It is an effigy of the last priest who officiated as chaplain in this castle. His hair and dress have been preserved, and wax has done the rest.

What emotions swelled our souls, as we thought, Luther has preached in this chapel! Luther spent many nights in some of the rooms through which we have passed.

In the spring of 1518, the order of the Augustines held its chapter in this city of Heidelburg. Luther was a member of the order, and was summoned to meet them. Luther was at Wirtemburg, and that city is on the Elbe,