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I have forgotten the exact price off, at a shivering canter, for the mounwhich he demanded for board and lous- tain paths. ing: but it was something extremely in- By half-past twelve we were bearings significant-not inore, certainly, than our empty, espectant stomachs up and iluree dollars a week. It was so much down the great cating-hall. Patients like gratuitous liospitality, that we sent followed patients through the creaking il porter to the Golile: Star for our doors, until nearly two hundred sick, trunks, and followed the superintendent blind, and deforined people were hun. to one of the cottages. We found it a grily patrolling around the long tables. very rustic one, built of rair clap-bodrils, Eight or ton neat, curiously white-ficed and approached through a puddie, the dainsels hurried in and out, loaded with overruimings of a neiglıboring water- piles of plates, or with monstrous trough. It had begun life, indeed, as a loares, of what seemned to be mahogastable; but we olujected very little to ny breal. Presently they all entered that, as the scent of quadruped life in a column, bearing spacious, smoking had been totally exercised from its platters of ineat and vegetables, prebreezy chambers. The floors and par- pared, as I afterwards found, by cooks titions were of the consistency of paste- of Satan's providing. No other signal board, and we sair at once that, if we was necessary to the famished invalids, cid not wish to disturb our neighbors, who inninediately mado for the tables wo inust live in a whisper. Everything at a pace which reminded one of the Wils of unsophisticated pine—the walls, fast-trotting boarders of a Western hothe narrow bedsteads, the chairs, and tel. Ilowerer sick they may have been the aguish wash-stands.
in other respects, they were certainly Tiere were only three chambers for well enough to eat; and I think I four of us, and but one of them wils never saw, before nor since, such an double-bedded and double-chaired. We izverage large appetite ainong such it iussed up kreutzers for the single rooms. number of people. A disgracefully Irwine got one of them, and Burroughs dirty inan, with an ugly swelled face, the other. While the trunks were coin- who sat on our left, filled his plate three ing we commenced a dance, celebra. or four inches deep with crery kind of tion of our advent, thinking that, per- proroner, ate it up, and then did it laps, we should never feel like it again. again, and a third time, as if it were no Presently we heard a yell of fury from feat at all. We afterwards learned that some profundity below, accompanied by Priessnitz counseled liis patients to a double knock against the floor under cat all they wished, the more the bet. our feet, from what see:ned to be a pair ter; for the old peasant was as perof boots. We paused in our shaker ex- versely ignorant of a stoinach as if he ercises, questioning what abodes of tor- carrieil a crop and digested with pebture might esist beneath us, and what bles, like à chicken; maintaining, lost mortal or demon might inhabit among other heresies, that a waterthem. We afterwards fuu:d that a patient's gastric powers should be neuralgic Russian lived on the first floor, strengthened by hard work, as much as and that, feeling annoyed lıy our clamor, liis legs by hard walking. Partly, in he had sought to mend matters by howl. consequence of this monstrous theory, ing and tlirowing lis shoe-leather about. and partly, because of the native sav.
Presently, we all gathered in the ageness of Silesian cookery, the food passage to catechise a young English- was of the worst description, consistinan, who was, also, (in) stalled in our ing of such horrors as veal ten days er-stable. Having been three months old, sauer kraut, and the most unsus. under treatment, he could give us some ceptible dough-balls. Such a diet would idea of what we were to do and to suffer; produce a galloping dyspepsia in any but, in the very middle of his talk, he one who was not invigorated by frewas imperiously summoned away, by a quent baths and wet rubbings; but, as moist, cool executioner, armed with a things were, I imagine that no great wet sheet. In a moment more we hearil, harun was done, and that, in a general with mingled mirtha and horror, the rasp. way, two hundred Ostriches could not ing splash of the dripping linen, as it have digested better. A man, who iell upon our friend's devoted body; and, takes four coll duckings per diem, a quarter of an hour afterwards, we saw walks five or six miles after each of him burry out, with wet locks, and make them, and wears a wet bandage over
his abdomen, may confide, even to reck- ively the color of my skin, and the lessness, in bis gastric juices.
developinent of my muscles. lle then When we came to discuss the dough- ordered the wet sheet to be spread, balls above-mentioned, u Gerinan as- and signed me to stretch myself in it. tonished us, by saying that they were As soon as I had measured iny length the favorite dish of the Emperor Fer- on the dripping linen, Franz folded me dinand of Austria. Yes, said he, np rapielly, and then packed ine thickly " with those they coax him to sign in blankets and coveriets, as if I were state papers. lle is rather childish a batch of dough set away to rise. now; and thinks it is il great bore to be Neuvillo followed my damp example ; always putting bis signature tv procla- and our teeth were soon chattering in mations and treaties. Accordingly, chilly sympathy. Having noted the inSchwartzenberg tells bim that, if lo tensity of our ague, as if it were will write his name so mimy times, he means of judging what degree of vigor shall have dough-balls for dinner.” in the treatment we could bear, Priess
Our meal closed with spacious fruit. vitz marched off to survey the agonies pies, not much less than two feet in of Irwine and Burroughs. Neuvillo diameter. All these indigestibles gavo and I remained as fixed, and nearly as our stomachis exercise until six o'clock, moist, as King Log in the pond, but when tho tablo was set again with the in a state of anguish fir beyond the fragmeuts of the mahogany loaves, and capacities of that solid potentatu. We pitchers of sweet and sour milk. At were so cold that we could not speak ten we went to bed, and discovered that plainly, and shivered until our bedsteads we were expected to keep warm with caught the infection. Then a change one blanket apicce, although the wea- came--a graduated, almost unconscither was chilly enough to palliato the ous change to warmth-and, at the end use of four. For fear of a wet sheet, of teu minutes, it was hard to
whehowever, or some other such cold com- ther we were imcomfortablo or not. A fort, we took care to call for ao addi- few minutes more brought a sensation tional covering, and supplied the hiatus of absoluto physical pleasure, and I for the night with our plaids and over- began to think that, after all, water was coats.
my element, and that it was quite a mis
take that I was not furnished with tasty II.
red fins like a pereli,or a convenient long FIRST DIPS IN (RIEFENBEN:(:.
tail, for sculling, like a polliwog. Early in the morning. Priessnitzcame Just at this pleasant stage of the exinto our room, followed by Franz, the periment, when I would have been glad bathman, and by Irwine, who lent him- to continue it longer, Priessnitz came self as interpreter. I saw beforo mne a back and declared us ready for tho medium-sized person, with weather-beat plunge-bath. Franz turned up tho on features; a complexion which would
as to leave my feet and have been fair but for derp sim-burn ; ankles free, shod me with a pair of cyes of blue inclining to gray; thin straw slippers, set mo unsteadily uplight-brown hair touched in with silver, right, like a staggering ninepin, took and an expression reserved, composed, firm hold of my envelopments begrave, and earnest. lle sometimes hind, and started me on my pilgrimage. siniled very pleasantly, but lie spoke I set off at the rate of a furlong an littic, and more, in general, an air of hour, which was the top of my possiquiet, simple dignity; Altogether, I blo speed under the circumstancos. felt as if I were in the presence of it Forming a little procession, with Priesskindly-tempereel mun of superior mind, nitz ahead is the officiating priest, accustomed to command, and habitual. then myself as the walking corpse, and ly confident in his own powers. I after theu Frunz as sexton, we moved solwards observed that he kept the same emnly 01, until wo reached a stairway impassive self-possession in the pres. leading into a most gloomy and lowence of every one, were it even the spirited cellar. Dark, rude, dirty flaghighest noble of the lustrian em
were visible at the bottom ; pire.
while, from an unseen corner, bubbled He listened to a brief history of iny the threatening voice of a runlet of wamalady, seeming very indifferent to its ter. Tho stair was so steep, and the past symptoms, but examining attent- steps so narrow, that it secined impos
sible to descend without pitching for returning to its church-yard. I met ward, and, considing myself desperately Neuville descending with a stiffness of to the attraction of gravitation, I cau- dignity which mado me think of Buntiously raised my left foot, made a pivot ker Hill Monument walking down to of the right one, wheeled half a diame. get a bath in the barbor; so woefully ter, settled carefully down sis inches, solemn, so dubious about his footing, so wheeled back again to a front face, bolt upright and yet so tottering, that brought my dextral foot down, and he would have shaken the gravity of a found myself on the first step. Ten pyrainid, or moved a weeping crocorepetitions of this delicate and compli- dilo to laughter. Once more in the cated manquvre carried me to the floor- double-bedded chamber, I gave myself ing of the cellar.
a few hurried rubs of supererogation, Franz now engineered me into a side- and was about dressing, when Neuville room, and halted me alongside of an ob- and Franz reappeared from the lower relong cistern, brimming with black wa- gions. With shivering fingers I seized ter, supplied by a brooklet, which fell my thick under-wrapper, and proceedinto it with a perpetual chilly gurgle. ed to don it, with a glorious sense of In a moment his practiced fingers bad anticipatory comfort. But that atm. peeled me like an orange, only far cious Franz saw it, snatched it, tucked quicker than any orange was ever yet it under lis arm, made a grab nest at stripped of its envelop. As I shumica my drawers and stockings, and then off the last tag of that humid coil, the signified, by menacing signs, that I was steain curled up from my body, as from to leave my cloak on its navil. No luckan acceptable sacrifice, or an ear of hot less urchin in Dotheboys Hall was ever boiled corn. Priessnitz pointed to the stripped half so pitilessly. As for cistern, like an angel of destiny signing Neuville, who had been tvasting himto my tomb; and I bolted into it in a self over American fires through the hurry, as wise people always bolt out mediocre chill of a Florentine winter, of the frying-pan into the fire, when and was as sensitivo to wind as a butthere is no help for it. In a minute my terfly, or a weathercock, or Mr. Jarnwhole surface was so perfectly iced dyce himself, he was despoiled with that it felt hard, smooth, and glossy, the same hyperborean unkindness. like a skin of marble. I got out on Out we went, nearly as thinly dressed the first symptom of permission, when as Adam and Eve, but leaving no ParaFranz set about rubbing me down, with dise behind us; forth we hurried, driven a new linen sheet, still possessed of all by Franz, that bald-headed cherub, horits native asperity. If I had been a ribly armed with a wet sheet; away into mammoth or an ichthyosaurus, with a the woods we fled. to wander like Cains, cuticle a foot thick, he could not have and drink three or four tuinblers of waput more emphasis into his efforts to ter before we might venture back to bring my blood back to a vigorous cir- breakfast. culation. Priessnitz joined in as if be I took my first taste at the Ilouseenjoyed the exercise, and honored me fountain, and swallowed a pint with with a searching attrition froin his difficulty. I seemed to be choke-full kooring fingers. Then, after examin- of water; oozing with it at every pore, ing me, to see if I grew healthfully like the earth in spring-time; ready to rosy under the excitement, he signed brim over with it if I were turned ever me to throw a dry sheet over my shoul- so little off my perpendicular; fit to boil ders, and give myself an air-bathi before and steain like a tea-kettle, should I a window, into which a fresh morning incautiously venture near a fire. It is breeze was pouring. Holding tight with astonishing how much moisturo can be both hands to the corners of the slicet, absorbed into the system through the I Happed my linen wings as if I were skin; how nearly a man can resemble some gigantic bat or butterfly, about to a water-lugged ship, or a dropsicul cutake flight through the orifice, and soar cumber. away over the meadows. “Goot!" It was a raiv, misty morning—as are said Priessnitz, nodding his solemn nearly all Graefenberg mornings-and head in token of ample satisfaction; the chill humidity crupt like a breath of and, folding my drapery around me, I ice through our thin remainder of raimarched up-stairs, like a statue look- ment. Loose and shaky, from our ing for a pedestal, or a belated ghost, coat-skirts to our teeth, we ambled up
the hill, back of the establishment, in canes, with iron foot-spikes and curved hopes of sheltering ourselves in its handles, the thickest and fiercest that woods from an ill-dispositioned wind, could be had. Then we debated whether which blows, year in and year out, we should get drinking horns to wear over thoso unfortunate landscapes. over our shoulders, or drinking-cups to People passed us or met us every min- carry in our pockets. At last we deute-some just starting out, in a state cided in favor of the cups, and resolved of nguish misery; some returning, rosy to visit Freiwaldau after dinner, and and happy in their triumphant reac- choose some handsome ones of Bohetion. The wide path, moistened here mian glass. Then eleven o'clock arand there by spacious puddles, entered rived, and Franz had us away to sit the forest, and wound gradually up the face to face, for fifteen minutes, in tubs inountain. At every hundred yards or of cold water, at the end of which he so, smaller tracks diverged through the polished us off with wet sheets in lieu thickets, or a bubbling fountain re- of sand-paper. Then we got ashamed minded the passer that it was time to of the effeminacy of hats, and walked quench his thirst, if he had any. There out conspicuously under bare polls and must have been twenty miles of path green umbrellas. At one o'clock camo way around Graefenberg, all, or nearly dinner, which gave us hard work in the all of which had been paid for out of a digestive and peripatetic line for some small weekly tax levied on the patients. hours afterwards. At five, Franz wantSeveral score of fountains, some of them ed to put us in the wet sheet again, inere wooden troughs, others basins or and would not take "no" for an answer. obelisks of stone, had been erected by Then we had to walk half an hour or means of this same revenue. Then more to get warm; and, by the time we there was a bronze lion, and two other returned, it was necessary to eat more monuments of considerable cost, dedi- sour milk and mahogany. Then we cated to the honor of Priessnitz, one by remoistened bandages, preparatory to the Prussian patients, one by the Hun- trotting for an hour or two up and down garians, and the third, I believe, by the great, ill-lighted hall, in company somo noble or other.
with scores of other uncomfortable peoNow and then we found some favor- ple. The room was naturally chilly, ite fountain surrounded by invalids, built so expressly and by malice aforechatting cosily, or pausing to drain thought. as I believe ; in addition to their cups, and reminding one of a par- which, that rascally superintendent decel of hens clucking and drinking about lighted in throwing open an elevated a water-trough. Neuville and I made range of windows, thereby giving copia very respectable pedestrian effort that ous ingress to a damp wind that wan morning, and returned to the house with dered among our shivering forms like anxious voids in our stomachs, notwith the ghost of a wet sheet. Nine o'clock standing that we occasionally stopped sent Franz after us, who insisted on to refill them with water. I should wetting our bandages and putting us have mentioned that Franz had surcin. immediately to bed, in as comfortless a gled us with broad linen bandages, of stato as half-drowned puppies. Rewhich the two first turns were wet, and peatedly in the night we woke, aching the two last dry, so as to constitute alto- with cold for our rations of bed-cloth. gether a kind of towel-and-water poul- ing were still restricted to a single tice. This is the finest digestive aid or blanket. At five in the morning, Franz curative that I know of; as much supe- was upon us,
like the Philistines upon rior to stomachic pills and cordials as it Sampson, or like Sampson upon the is nearer to nature.
Philistines (for it seems to have been Breakfast was on the table, as it had nip and tuck between those old fellows) been for two hours, when we entered - dragging us down again into those the eating-ball
. Like the last night's awful nether regions of wet pavements, supper, it consisted of sweet and sour brooks, and cisterns. milk, with the usual rye and barley It was astonishing how rapidly we bread. By the time we had swallowed became fanaticized under the influence a disgraceful quantity of this simple of the cure, and the example of our felnutriment, our waist-bandages were dry, low-invalids. Before a week was over, and required a new wetting. Then we I had discarded all my woolen garments repaired to a booth and bought stout of every cut, and wore linen from head to foot, in a temperature like that of a decessors in the builling. In fact, irhen New England Narchi, or a Charleston I think of liis frictions, and conside: December. It blew every ininute, and how wet I wils at the time, I almost ruined vearly as often; yet we caught wonder that I was not rubbed out of no colds, and were savagely i.different existence, like a pencil-mark. Occato our discornforts. All this, too, was sivually it was impossible not to shout in despite of sarcastic declarations, or stainp under the excitation, at which made on our arrival, that we would times the ola Russian belois would bomdress and behave like civilized people, bard our floor with his boots, in token anil not like the slouching, bare-headed, of disapprobation. bure-footed fanatics around us.
Among so inany honely people as we It was, also, reinarkable how this had about us, there wero necessarily general carelessness in exteriors depre- some wlose ugliness ran into acconciuted the average beauty of the patients. tricity, if not absurdity. Neuville, who Among the five hundred persons who had an extraoralinary faculty at dis. wore under cure in Graefenberg and covering resemblances between men and Freiwaldau, there must have been a beasts, or birds, soon fixed on one old number with some natural claims to gontleman as the Owl; and I was obliged comeliness; but, by dint of shabby to confess that, bating tho lacle of clothes, cropped hair, and neglected claws, the said human certainly did bear beards, this favored few had melted a striking likeness to the solemn anit way into the great aggregate of ugli- chorite of ornithology. He was a inun ness, or retaineri, like Lucifer, only a of about sisty, with light gray hair, doubtful halo of former beauty. One light gray beard, and a light gray suit of our party, a man of sensitive nerves, of clothes-so that, from a distance, you complained that the daily spectacle of inight suppose him to be dressed in such a deteriorated humanity inade him light gray feathers. I was tolerably u.well, and that he never should con- bare of chin, and liis inouth had retired valesce until he could see some hand. into obscurity under a bower of light suine people.
gray moustachios. His long, curved III.
nose looked wonderfully like a beak,
and his eyes were always wide open ('ERTAIS GRAEFESBERGJIERS.
with an expression of unqualified astonNEUVILLE and I had a pearl of a bath- islunent. llowever early we roso, howmun. Ile was a strong, slow, blue-eyed, ever fast and far we went, we invariably light-colored, Silesian peasant, who had met him already returning, as if he had once possessed a scalp full of sandy hair, started out for his morning walk some but had lost at least half of it in his time the day previous. Neuville attirmjourncy to middle life. His whole ap. ed that he stayed in the woods all night, pearance, and especially his sinooth, and amused himself with hooting and shining pate, recked with an indescribe chasing field-mice until daybreak, when ably cool, dewy expression, which inade lice would leave off at the approach of one think of cucumbers, wet pebbles, the earliest patients, and hurry down to drenched roses, or heads of lettuce after the establishment to take a bath. a shower. Seuville insisted that he Another interesting personage was a gained this fresh appearance by living middle-aged, muscular llungarian, with on such things as celery and water- startling black eyes and wavy black cresses, and by sleeping in one of the beard, who had the fame of being crazy, cisterns, or, perhaps, down a well like a or at least unreusonably original. Ho bull-frog. It may be, indeed, that the carried an enormous yellow cane, one instinct of association deceived us, and end of which was fashioned into a passthat we imputed this aqueous nature to uble flute. He always walked alone, the man solely because he had so inuch like a man who had dealings with fairies to do with our baths; but however that and wood-nyıplıs, and, when he thought was, we certainly never looked at liim no human being was writliin bearing ho without being impressed with the idea would put his cane to his lips, and treat that he would slice up cold and juicy, lis elfin friends to a melody. If a wanlike a melou or a tomato.
dering fellow-patient came upon him in Franz exhibited a forty-hostler power one of these dulcet inoments, lie dropped iu rubbing us down, and had, perhaps, the end of liis cane, whisked it about curried the bides of our quadruped pre- unconcernedly, and looked all around,