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FIGURE 1. Dress Toilette.—Robe Louis XIII., of straw. | very wide apart at the bottom, and approach gradually coloured satin. Corsage square, with long point in front. to the point of the corsage. Sleeves rather short, straight from the elbow upward, The coiffure is of scarlet velvet, with a crown forming s without being tight, large below. Skirt forming a slight net for the hair. At each side is a bunch of round nouds train behind. Hips a little low.
with two long ends, and between the næuds, grapes of The corsage, the sleeves, and the mountings of the skirt large golden pearls. Hair in bandeaux, puffing below the are trimmed with a ruche of black lace forming the head temples. of the principal trimming, which is everywhere two rows FIGURE 2. Toilette of a Young Lady.-Robe of light blue of very light black silk lace, with large dents. The lace taffetas. Corsage falling away, exposing a chemisette of is gathered a little, especially round the base of the white lace. Waist long. Berthe round, tucked up in sleeves, and of the skirt. The mountings of the jupe are front en draperie. Skirt double, the under one plain and HOME TOILETTE,
full. The upper is festooned at the sides. The corsage is trimmed with six heads of white plumes, two placed together at the middle of the berthe, and then four graduated in size and distances toward the waist, the lowest being the smallest. On each side of the upper jupe are five plumes, graduated to correspond to those on the corsage, and finally, at the lower end of these rows are clusters of three plumes festooning the skirt. The berthe and the skirt are further ornamented with silver passementerie and fringe, narrow on the former, and wide on the latter.
FIGURE 3. Visiting Toilette.--Bonnet of pink satin, trimmed with a network of chenille, which encloses the crown. Under-trimming of small white flowers. Hair in waving bandeaux.
Robe of gros de tours, with white wreaths broché on a felt ground. Trimming of silk fringe of the same colour as the dress, mixed here and there at considerable intervals with white chenille. There are five rows of this fringe on the corsage, and eight rows on the skirt, the former graduated in both width and length, the latter in length only. The three rows which trim the sleeves are put on obliquely, being higher in front of the arm than at the back of it.
foliage, placed low on the left side, and it is lined with straw-coloured taffetas.
Robe of dark green taffetas, trimmed on the skirt with six flounces cut in rounded scallops, and pinked. Three similar volants finish the sleeves. Corsage open in front in a wide V, extending entirely to the point. Around the opening is a revers also pinked. Plain chemisette with collarette and ruff of lace. Under-sleeves of tulle, bordered with lace.
FIGURE 5. Walking Dress.—Bonnet of lilac taffetas, trimmed all round the edge with blonde, and with white flowers and green foliage, both at the side and within the face. Robe of damask without trimming; skirt very full. Pardessus of taffetas, of the colour called hanneton, which is a kind of dull scarlet. It is edged with black lace de laine, and ornamented with galon sewed on zigzag.
FIGURE 6. Walking Dress.-Bonnet of white taffetas, disguised with crêpe lisse, and ornamented with white feathers beaded with foliage of green satin. Mantelet of light green taffetas, trimmed with silk fringe corresponding in colour, surmounted with a bouillonné of the same material as the mantelet. Robe of felt-coloured taffetas, without trimming.
FIGURE 7. Home Toilette.- Head-dress a fauchon of red.
poppy-coloured velvet, edged with white silk lace, which FIGURE 4. Visiting Toilette.-Bonnet de guerchener of extends under the chin and is there tied. Hair in puffing passementerie, called point d'Espagne, similar in many bandeaux. respects to the lace of that name, having the same little | Robe and close pardessus of light green taffetas. The pearls which form its chief merit. This bon net is orna- main skirt is plain and full; corsage high, and ornamented mented with a bouquet of small white flowers and green'in front with small aiguillettes or points of passementerie, with a noud to each of silk galon. The pardessus is í Pelerine of jaconet, embroidered a P Anglaise. Two adjusted to the corsage as though part of it. It is open in strips of thread lace form the trimming to the under. front, and sets to the shape with busk before and behind. sleeves and the pantalets. The edge of the corsage opening, and around the waist Round-crowned hat trimmed below with two noeuds of and the lower part of the sleeves are trimmed with a roll / white riband. Hair in ringlets all over the head. and points of pinked taffetas. The jupe is very full, and FIGURE 9. Toilette de Ville.- Bonnet of white crape composed of two pinked flounces, rounded behind, but trimmed above with two white plumes falling one on tending to a point in front. A single pink volant finishes each side. Under-trimming of tulle, gathered, and an the sleeve.
edging of blonde. The corsage, the sleeves, and the two volants of the Redingote of damasked taffetas. Corsage high; waist jupe have a second trimming of black lace, the edge of long; busked behind and before. Sleeves large at the which is rounded into large scales. On the corsage, the bottom. Collar, ruff, and under-sleeves of English lace. lace is put on flat, while that on the sleeves and the jupe Small, square India shawl, ground scarlet, with light is gathered. The under-sleeves are of white lace, very border. full, but gathered by a band at the wrist. Small collar of white lace, with a cravat of white riband.
GENERAL REMARKS.- Very little change has been made in the shape of bonnets, which have all the face a little open, and approaching on each side under the chin. As regards trimmings, however, there is a great variety of new and beautiful styles. Capotes of taffetas, for instance, are trimmed some with narrow volants, or gathered ruches of gauze or taffetas ribands; others with twists upon each recess composed alternately of biaises of satin and crêpe lisse, others still are trimmed or rather covered with volants of gauze riband, the edge of which is sometimes cut in rounded scallops, and sometimes has an ornament of a different description either woven in with the riband, or sewed to it: further, the trimming may be of blonde, of passementerie, of straw, &c., &c. For under-trimming in all these cases flowers are preferred.
Very pretty capotes are also made of tulle-malines with small spots. The tulle is always placed upon crape of some light colour, rose, lilac, yellow, or blue.
Robes for demi-dress have almost all the corsage open nearly to the waist, and the sleeves also are open at the bottom. The skirts are long, too long, "Les Modes Parisiennes” thinks, to be worn elsewhere than in the car. riage or the drawing-room, it being entirely out of taste to sweep the walks of the Champs-Elysées with handsome silk dresses. There has been no change in the width of skirts. Robes of taffetas are still trimmed with many scalloped flounces. Five of these, diminishing gradually in width from the lowest to the highest, form a favourite mode. The first volant is usually about twice the width of the last.
Some very elegant silk robes are trimmed with volants bordered with gathered ruches of narrow lace de laine of colour corresponding with the robes. In this case there are only three volants, and the little ruche which borders them is placed also at the foot of the upper one. Ruches of narrow silk riband are often employed instead of those just describe l. If the robe is of several shades of colour, the riband is of satin, of that shade of the stuff which is most lively.
Fichus are much oftener ornamented with crossing volants than with ruffs. These volants are of Malines or Valenciennes lace, and are always separated by intermediates of embroidered muslin or of lace. The collar is composed of a foundation of embroidered muslin edged with a volant of lace. It must be remarked here that for morning negligés ruff trimmings are very often chosen rather than those just alluded to. For under-skirts, pan
talets for infants, etc., embroidery of the most compact FIG. 9.
kind is preferred. TOILETTE DE VILLE.
For materials for dresses, especially for the morning, taffetas is much used. It is of all colours, plain and
striped. Among the novelties in this line may be menFIGURE 8. Dress for a Little Girl Twelve Years Old. tioned the taffetas Pompadour, in white and green satin Frock of pule lilac taffetas. Corsage falling away all stripes, spotted with bunches of roses, the stuff Fontanges, round. Waist long. Skirt a little short, and gathered at of which the ground is pearl-gray, divided by a broad the waist, under a narrow belt which is tied behind. white stripe, covered also with small, neat blue flowers; Sleeves demi-large, and reaching but little below the and the taffetas Pompadour-duchesse, colour bleuct-camaier elbow. The sleeve ends with four biaises, placed in relief (blue-onyx), with large white stripes varied with little one over the other; they are open at the elbow, and flowers interlaced with each other, and presenting many extend in front half way to the hand. The skirt is lively colours. There are also many changeable taffetas, trimmed with thirteen tucks, one over the other, occupy | among which the blue and gold edged with flowers is ing more than half its height.
THE EDITOR'S TABLE.
IN commencing our Magazine we were told that the THE COMMENCEMENT OF VOLUMES.- Sartain's Magazine is only way to gain a large circulation was to spend our divided into two volumes yearly, commencing severally in
aoba January and July. We have full sets from January 1850. money upon show rather than upon substance; to make
Subscribers therefore can commence with either January the pictures everything, and the reading matter nothing,
1850, or July 1850. or at least of that whipt-syllabub character--milk-sop poetry and love-stories—which comes about as near to MRS. ESLING'S POEMs. Lindsay and Blakiston are prenothing as those imaginary mathematical lines that are
thematical lines that are paring to publish a volume, entitled “Broken Bracelet and
other Poems,” by Mrs. Esling (formerly Miss Waterman). ever drawing nearer, though they never actually meet!
Mrs. Esling is agreeably known to the public, both under We confess such was not our measure of the public taste.
her present and her maiden name, as a contributor to the We had not so learned the American character. While, leading magazines. Her volume will be an acceptable therefore, we determined that our Magazine should not offering to a large circle of admirers. be behind any in regard to its embellishments, we rested
THE ST. LEGER PAPERS. The very original volume under its claims to success mainly upon its literary merits. We
this title has already reached a third edition, in which its aimed to secure, as constant contributors to the Magazine,
paternity is acknowledged. The author is R. B. Kimball, the very best class of writers, and to fill its pages with Esq., of New York. matter that would be useful and instructive, and at the
WEBSTER'S QUARTO DICTIONARY. We take much pleasure same time attractive. Experience has proved the correct
in calling the attention of our readers to the advertiseness of this opinion. No Magazine, so far as we are aware,
ment of this great work on the second page of the cover. ever had such a sudden and full measure of success. It has found its way into an important class of the commu
JENNY LIND. nity who have hitherto not been Magazine readers, who "Henrick talked a great deal about Stockholm; he have been rather opposed to such works as dissipating and longed to be able to show his mother and sisters the beaufrivolous, but who find, in a Magazine such as we furnish,
tiful capital. How they would be charmed with the thea
tres! How they would be delighted to see and hear the the very best antidote to that vicious taste for trashy
lovely Demoiselle Hogguist, and the captivating Jenny novels which is doing so much to deprave the public mind.
o mind. Lind.!” To all such readers, and indeed to all our readers, we de So wrote that noble-hearted woman, Frederika Bremer, sire to say that we shall continue in the same line in just ten years ago, in one of the loveliest tales of domestic which we have begun. While we shall remit nothing of
life that was ever penned; and so were the words trans
lated by that other noble-hearted woman, Mary Howitt, our diligence in regard to whatever affects the external
in 1842; and this was the first time that the name of appearance of the Magazine, we shall ever bend our main Jenny Lind was made familiar to the British and Ameriefforts to the maintenance of the character it has already can public acquired for literary excellence. We intend, indeed, that the unrivalled mistress of song, now in the meridian the succeeding volume shall be superior, in every respect,
of her glory, is about to visit our shores. Among the
thousand notes of welcome that greet her approach, we to its predecessors.
doubt whether any will be more grateful than that to
be found in our present number, from the pen of the PREMIUM9.—The system of granting premiums to sub
same good and gifted woman, who first made her known scribers will be discontinued after the year 1850. Money to these western climes, and who by a pleasant coincidence heretofore expended on premiums will be used hereafter is now at the same time a sojourner amongst us. in embellishing the book itself. Those wishing to secure our superior premium plates can only do so by com
BURNS'S HIGHLAND MARY. mencing with either of the volumes for the present year.
Among the many things written on this subject, we
recollect nothing more beautiful than the opening stanzas OUR JULY NUMBER.-The first number of our new volume of a poem in the March Number of Blackwood. The will contain, besides a brilliant coloured Title-Page, and a poem, as a whole, is not well sustained. But the first tinted engraving of Summer, some fourteen or fifteen three or four stanzas strike us as uncommonly fine. We embellishments illustrating the life of WILLIAM PENN, the l quote them. founder of the Keystone State. Among these will be a finely executed line engraving representing the celebrated
O loved by him whom Scotland loves, Treaty with the Indians, and another, a superb mezzotinto
Long loved, and honoured duly likeness of Penn with flowing locks and in armour, before
By all who love the bard who sang he had donned the Quaker garb. This likeness is en
So sweetly and so truly! graved from the original portrait painted from life in
In cultured dales his song prevails, Ireland, in 1666. The biographical sketch accompanying
Thrills o'er the eagle's aëry, these embellishments is from the pen of Edward Ingra
Ah! who that strain has caught, nor sighed bam, Esq., of this city.
For Burns's "Highland Mary?”
I wandered on from hill to bill, to possess this number separately, will do well to make
I feared nor wind nor weather; early application. One Dollar remitted free of charge will
For Burns beside me trode the moor, securo five copies.
Beside me pressed the heather.
I read his verse—his life-alas!
| which has characterized all his writings, and with that O'er that dark shapes extended :
peculiar felicity of manner, not less characteristic, by With thee at last, and him in thee,
which he adorns whatever he touches, he has produced a My thoughts their wanderings ended.
work authentic as a history and yet as seductive as a professed work of fiction. For sale by A. Hart, Philadephia.
Allston'S POEMS AND LECTURES ON ART. Baker & Scrib
ner. We are informed by the editor of this volume, Mr. His golden hours of youth were thine,
Dana, that on the death of Mr. Allston, it was determined Those hours whose flight is fleetest;
by his literary executors to prepare his biography and Of all his songs to thee he gave
correspondence, and publish them in connexion with his The freshest and the sweetest.
writings, the whole making two volumes of the size of the Ere ripe the fruit, one branch he brake,
present. A delay has unfortunately occurred in the preAll rich with bloom and blossom;
paration of the biography and correspondence; and, as And shook its dews, its incense shook,
there have been frequent calls for the publication of his Above thy brow and bosom.
poems and of his lectures on Art, it was thought best to give them at once to the public in their present form,
without awaiting the completion of the whole design. We TITLED LITERATI.
are given to understand, however, that when the biogra
phy and correspondence are published, they will be in Christopher North is something of a democrat after all.
form and size to match the present volume. It is the In discoursing of the English practice of conferring baro
second instalment of a rich legacy, the first being as yet netcy, knighthood, and the like, upon literary men, he
unpaid and past due. says, “We should extremely regret to see literary men
REDWOOD. By Miss Sedgwick. We are glad to see that becoming candidates for these honours. They do not want them; they have already taken a title from their
Mr. Putnam, having nearly completed his valuable ediworks. The title-page of their book is their best order of
tions of Irving and Cooper, has commenced an edition of
Miss Sedgwick's Works, uniform in size and appearance knighthood. The Author of Waverley!'-can any
with the former. “Redwood," the first of the series, first prince's sword dub a man with a title like that, or any
appeared about fifteen years since. Its reappearance, in title that shall be remembered by the side of it? These
its present elegant attire, will be welcomed by many old distinctions are becoming common amongst scientific men of eminence, and what is the result? Not that those are
friends, and by a large reading public that has come upon more honoured who possess them, but that many who
the stage since that time. possess them not, feel slighted and aggrieved. And yet
Hume's ENGLAND. Harpers Edition. No library is ac the common forms of language are enough to show how
counted complete which has not a copy of this standard superfluous such titles are, to both literary and scientific historical work, and no opportunity, probably, has ever men of distinguished merit; for no sooner does a man
occurred, since its first publication, to procure a good copy become famous than all prefix whatever to his name is
at so small an expense. This edition is in six volumes, dropped. The highest honour is to be stripped bare to small 8vo. and is sold at retail at the small price of forty the simple surname. It is plain Newton or Locke men
cents a volume in neat muslin binding. The work has speak of. No one talks of Sir Isaac's Principia. A Sir been brought out with great rapidity. In our last number Joseph Banks may keep his title. But even a Sir Humphry we had the pleasure of announcing only the first volume. Davy has some difficulty to retain his. Whenever the The whole work is now complete. The publishers anlanguage of the writer rises into panegyric, we have re- | nounce Milman's Gibbon's Rome, in the same style and marked that it becomes plain Davy. We hear and read at the same price. For sale by Dewitt & Davenport, Nero always of one Faraday. The living man has already ob York. tained this highest of nominal distinctions, to be without WHITE-JACKET; or the World in a Man-of-War. By Her. a prefix. For ourselves, we know not whether it is Mr. man Melville. Harpers. We have not been able to read or Sir that is omitted; but we know this, that if the Sir
this inviting volume-and much to our regret, for we is yet to come, it will drop off, it will not stick.”
doubt not, from the character of Mr. Melville's former volumes, the readers of “White-Jacket” are destined to a rare entertainment. Mr. Melville says in a preliminary note that in 1843 he shipped as an "ordinary seaman" on board of a United States frigate, then lying in a harbour of the Pacific ocean. After remaining in this frigate for more than a year, he was discharged from the service upon the vessel's arrival home. The experiences of that year form the basis of the present volume.
THE CONVICT SHIP. By Colin Arrott Browning, M.D. Lindsay & Blakiston. The author of this interesting volume is a surgeon in the British navy. He was placed in charge of some two or three hundred convicts during their transportation to the penal colony of Van Diemen's Land. Being a man of a truly Christian spirit, he deliberately undertook the reformation of these criminals, during their voyage. The results of his labours are given
in the present publication. The book is remarkable, not BOOK NOTICES.
so much for its style, as for the facts which it contains. MAHOMET AND HIS SUCCESSORS. By Washington Irving. Dr. Browning narrates with great simplicity and straightThere is an air of wild romance about these volumes forwardness the steps which he pursued with these unwhich gives them a peculiar fascination. This may be in promising subjects. The results were of a character to part owing to the peculiar character of the Arabs, as the awaken very strongly public attention in Great Britain, author would very modestly have us believe. But recol where the book has passed rapidly through four editions, lecting, as we do, the many grievously heavy tomes on the and we doubt not a similar impression upon the public same subject which have been heretofore issued, we can mind will follow the republication of the work in this not but feel that we must seek for the fascination nearer country. The work is introduced to the American public home. It is Mr. Irving, and not the subject, that has with a recommendatory preface by the Rev. James H. beguiled us. With that industry in the collection of facts Fowles, of Philadelphia,