« 上一页继续 »
Figure 1. Dress ToQeltt.—Robe Louis XIII., of strawooloured satin. Corsage square, with 1 on g^ point in front. Sleeves rather short, straight from the elbow upward, without being tight, large below. Skirt forming a slight train behind. Hips a little low.
The corsage, the sleeves, and the mountings of the skirt are trimmed with a ruche of black lace forming the head of the principal trimming, which is everywhere two rows of very light black silk lace, with large dents. The lace Is gathered a little, especially round the base of the sleeves, and of the skirt. The mountings of the jupo aro
very wide apart at the bottom, and approach gradually to the point of the corsage.
The coiffure is of scarlet velvet, with a crown forming A net for the hair. At each side is a bunch of round nceuds with two long ends, and between the noeuds, grapes of large golden pearls. Hair in bandeaux, puffing below the temples.
Figure 2. Toilelt t of a Young Lady.—Robe of light bin* taffetas. Corsage falling away, exposing a chemisette of white lace. Waist long. Berthe round, tucked up in front en draperie. Skirt double, the under oue plain and fall. The upper is festooned at the aides. The corsage is trimmed with six heads of white plumes, two placed together at the middle of the berthe, and then four graduated in size and distances toward the waist, the lowest being the smallest. On each side of the upper jape are five plumes, graduated to correspond to those on the corsage, and finally, at tho lower end of these rows are clusters of three plumes festooning the skirt. The berthe and the skirt are further ornamented with silver passementerie and fringe, narrow on the former, and wide on the latter. with a nceud to each of silk galon. The pardessus is adjusted to the corsage as though part of it. It is open in front, and sets to the shape with bunk before and behind. The edge of the coreage opening, and around the waist and the lower part of the sleeves are trimmed with a roll and points of pinked taffetas. The jupe is very full, and composed of two pinked flounces, rounded behind, but tending to a point in front. A single pink volant finishes the sleeve.
Figure 3. Visiting Toilette.—Bonnet of pink satin, trimmed with a network of chenille, which encloses the crown. Under-trimming of small white flowers, Hair in waving bandeaux.
Robe of gros de tours, with white wreaths broche on a felt ground. Trimming of silk fringe of the same colour as the dress, mixed here and there at considerable interTals with white chenille. There are fire rows of this fringe on the corsage, and eight rows on the skirt, the former graduated In both width and length, the latter in length only. The three rows which trim the sleeves aro put on obliquely, being higher in front of the arm than at the back of it.
foliage, placed low on the left side, and it is lined with straw-coloured taffetas.
Robe of dark green taffetas, trimmed on the skirt with six flounces cut in rounded scallops, and pinked. Three similar volants finish tho sleeves. Corsage open in front in a wide V, extending entirely to tho point . Around the opening is a revers also pinked. Plain chemisette with collarette and ruff of lace. Under-sleeves of tulle, bordered with lace.
Figure 5. Walking Dress.—Bonnet of lilac taffetas, trimmed all round the edge with blonde, and with white flowers and green foliage, both at the side and within the face. Robe of damask without trimming; skirt very full. Pardessns of taffetas, of the colour called hanneton, which is a kind of dull scarlet. It is edged with black lace de laine, and ornamented with galon sewed on zigzag.
Figure 6. Walking Dress.—Bonnet of white taffetas, disguised with crepe lisse, and ornamented with white feathers headed with foliage of green satin. Mantelet of light green taffetas, trimmed with silk fringe corresponding in colour, surmounted with a bouillonne of the same material as the mantelet. Robe of felt-coloured taffetas, without trimming.
The corsage, the sleeves, and the two volants of the jupe have a second trimming of black lace, the edge of which is rounded into large scales. On the corsage, the lace is put on flat, while that on the sleeves and the jupe is gathered. The under-sleeves are of white lace, very full, but gathered by a band at the wrist.
Small collar of white lace, with a cravat of white riband.
Fig. 9. Toilette De VI L L E.
Figcre 8. Dresn far a Litfl*, Girl Twelve Yeare OkL— Frock of p'Je lilac taffetas. Corsage falling away all round. Waist long. Skirt a little short, and gathered at the waist, under a narrow belt which is tied behind. Sleeves demi-large, and reaching but little below the elbow. The sleeve ends with four biaises, placed in relief one over the other; they are open at the elbow, and extend in front half way to the hand. The skirt is trimmed with thirteen tucks, one over the other, occupying more than half Mi height.
Pelerine of jaconet, embroidered & l strips of thread lace form the trimming to the i sleeves and the pantalets.
Round-crowned hat trimmed below with two noends of white riband. Hair in ringlets all over the head.
Figure 9. Toileitt de Ville.~Bonnet of white crape trimmed above with two white plumes falling one on each side. Under-trimming of tulle, gathered, and an edging of blonde.
Redingote of damasked taffetas. Corsage high; waist long; busked behind and before. Sleeves large at the bottom. Collar, ruff, and under-eleeves of English lace. Small, square India shawl, ground scarlet, with light border.
General Remarks.—Very little change has been made in the shape of bonnets, which have all the face a little open, and approaching on each side under the chin. As regards trimmings, however, there is a great variety Of new and beautiful styles. Capotes of taffetas, for instance, arc trimmed some with narrow volants, or gathered ruches of gauze or taffetas ribands; others with twists upon each recess composed alternately of biaises of satin and crepe lisse, others still are trimmed or rather covered with volants of gauze riband, the edge of which is sometimes cut in rounded scallops, and sometimes has an ornament of a different description cither woven in with the riband, or sewed to it: further, the trimming may be of blonde, of passementerie, of straw, Ac., Ac. For under-trimming in all these cases flowers are preferred.
Very pretty capotes arc also made of tulle-malines with small spots. The tulle is always placed upon crape of some light colour, rose, lilac, yellow, or blue.
Robes for demi-dress have almost all the corsage open nearly to the waist, and the sleeves also are open at the bottom. The skirts are long, too long, " Les Modes Parisiennes" thinks, to be worn elsewhere than in the carriage or the drawing-room, it being entirely out of taste to sweep the walks of the Champs-Ely sees with handsome silk dresses. There has been no change in the width of skirts. Robes of taffetas are still trimmed with many scalloped flounces. Five of these, diminishing gradually in width from the lowest to the highest, form a Lavourite mode. The first volant is usually about twice the width of the last.
Some very elegant silk robes are trimmed with volants bordered with gathered ruches of narrow lace de laine of colour corresponding with the robes. In this case there are only three volants, and tho little ruche which borders them is placed also at the foot of the upper one. of narrow silk riband are often employed instead of t just describe !. If the robe is of several shades of colour, the riband is of satin, of that shade of the stuff which is most lively.
Fichus are much oftener ornamented with crossing volants than with ruffs. These volants are of Malines or Valenciennes lace, and are always separated by interme. dlates of embroidered muslin or of lace. The collar is composed of a foundation of embroidered muslin edged with a volant of lace. It must be remarked here that for morning negliges ruff trimmings are very ofteu chosen rather than those just alluded to. For under-skirts, pantalets for infants, etc., embroidery of the most compact kind is preferred.
For materials for dresses, especially for the morning, taffetas is much used. It is of all colours, plain and striped. Among the novelties in this lino may be mentioned the taffetas Pompadour, in white and green satis stripes, spotted with bunches of roses, the stuff Flmtanget, of which tho ground 1b pearl-gray, divided by a broad white stripe, covered also with small, neat blue flowers; and the taffetas Pompadour-duchesss, colour file tut-camairu (blue-onyx), with large white stripes varied with little flowers interlaced with each other, and presenting many lively colours. There are also many changeable taffetas, among which the blue and gold edged with flowers is much admired.
THE EDITOR'S TABLE.
In commencing oar Magazine we were told that the only way to gain a large circulation was to spend oar money upon show rather than upon substance; to make the pictures everything, and the reading matter nothing, or at least of that whipt-syllabub character—milk-sop poetry and love-stories—which comes about as near to nothing as those imaginary mathematical lines that are ever drawing nearer, though they never actually meet! We confess such was not our measure of the public taste. We bad not so learned the American character. While, therefore, we determined that our Magazine should not be behind any in regard to its embellishments, we rested its claims to success mainly upon its literary merits. We aimed to secure, as constant contributors to the Magazine, the very best class of writers, and to fill its pages with matter that would be useful and instructive, and at the same time attractive. Experience has proved the correctness of this opinion. No Magazine, so far as we are aware, ever had such a sudden and full measure of success. It has found its way into an important class of the community who have hitherto not been Magazine readers, who have been rather opposed to such works as dissipating and frivolous, but who find, in a Magazine such as we furnish, the very best antidote to that vicious taste for trashy novels which is doing so much to deprave the public mind. To all such readers, and indeed to all our readers, we desire to say that we shall continue in the same line in which we have begun. While we shall remit nothing of our diligence in regard to whatever affects the external appearance of the Magazine, wo shall ever bend our main efforts to the maintenance of the character it has already acquired for literary excellence. We intend, indeed, that the succeeding volume shall be superior, in every respect, to its predecessors.
Premiums.—The system of granting premiums to subscribers will be discontinued after the year 1850. Money heretofore expended on premiums will be used hereafter in embellishing the book itself. Those wishing to secure our superior premium plates can only do so by commencing with either of the volumes for the present year.
Our July Numeer.—The first number of our new volume will contain, besides a brilliant coloured Title-Page, and a tinted engraving of Summer, some fourteen or fifteen embellishments illustrating the life of William Penn, the founder of the Keystone State. Among these will be a finely executed line engraving representing the celebrated Treaty with the Indiana, and another, a superb mezzotinto likeness of Pcnn with flowing locks and In armour, before he had donned the Quaker garb. This likeness is engraved from the original portrait painted from life in Ireland, in 1666. The biographical sketch accompanying these embellishments is from the pen of Edward Ingraham, Esq., of this city.
(TT* As we are printing only a limited quantity of the July number beyond our regular edition, those wishing to possess this number separately, will do well to make early application. One Dollar remitted free of charge will secure five copies.
The Commencement Op Volumes.—Sartain's Magazine is divided into two volumes yearly, commencing severally In January and July. We have full sets from January 1850. Subscribers therefore can commence with either January 1850, or July 1850.
Mrs. Eslino's Poems. Lindsay and Blaklston are preparing to publish a volume, entitled "Broken Bracelet and other Poems," by Mrs. Esling (formerly Miss Waterman). Mrs. Esling is agreeably known to the public, both under her present and her maiden name, as a contributor to the leading magazines. Her volume will be an acceptable offering to a largo circle of admirers.
The St. Leoer Papers. The very original volume under this title has already reached a third edition, in which its paternity is acknowledged. The author is R. B. Kimball, Esq., of New York.
Weester's Quarto Dictionary. We tako much pleasure In calling tho attention of our readers to the advertisement of this great work ou the second page of the cover.
JENNY LIND. "Henrlck talked a great deal about Stockholm; he longed to be able to show his mother and sisters the beautiful capital. How they would be charmed with the theatres! How they would be delighted to see and hear tho lovely Demoiselle Hoggulst, and tho captivating Jenny hind /"
So wrote that noble-hearted woman, Frederika Bremer, just ten years ago, in one of the loveliest tales of domestic life that was ever penned; and so were the words translated by that other noble-hearted woman, Mary Howitt, In 1842; and this was the first time that the name of Jenny Lind was made familiar to the British and American public.
The unrivalled mistress of song, now in the meridian of her glory, is about to visit our shores. Among the thousand notes of welcome that greet her approach, we doubt whether any will be more grateful than that to be found in our present number, from the pen of the same good and gifted woman, who first made her known to these western climes, and who by a pleasant coincidence is now at tho samo time a sojourner amongst us.
BURNS'S HIGHLAND MARY. Among the many things written on this subject, wc recollect nothing more beautiful than the opening stanzas of a poem in the March Number of Blackwood. The poem, as a whole, is not well sustained. But the first three or four stanzas strike us as uncommonly fine. We quote them.
0 loved by him whom Scotland loves,
By all who love the bard who sang
So sweetly and so truly!
Thrills o'er the eagle's aery,—
For Burns's " Highland Mary V
1 wandered on from hill to hill,
I feared nor wind nor weather;
I read his verse—Ma life—alas!
O'er that dark shapes extended:— With thee at last, and him in thee,
My thoughts their wanderings ended.
His golden hours of youth were thine,
Those hours whose flight is fleetest; Of all his songs to thee he gave
Tho freshest and the sweetest. Ere ripe the fruit, one hranch he brake,
All rich with bloom and blossom; And shook its dews, its incense shook,
Above thy brow and bosom.
Christopher North is something of a democrat after all. In discoursing of the English practice of conferring baronetcy, knighthood, and the like, upon literary men, he says, "We should extremely regret to see literary men becoming candidates for these honours. They do not want them; they have already taken a title from their works. The title-page of their book is their best order of knighthood. The 'Author of Waverley I'—can any prince's sword dub a man with a title like that, or any title that shall be remembered by the side of it? These distinctions are becoming common amongst scientific men of eminence, and what is the result? Not that those are more honoured who possess them, but that many who possess them not, feel slighted and aggrieved. And yet the common forms of language are enough to show how superfluous such titles are, to both literary and scientific men of distinguished merit; for no sooner does a man become famous than all prefix whatever to his name is dropped. The highest honour is to be stripped bare to the simple surname. It Is plain Newton or Locke men speak of. No one talks of Sir Isaacs Principia. A Sir Joseph Banks may keep his title. But even a Sir Humphry Davy has some difficulty to retain his. Whenever the language of the writer rises into panegyrie, we have remarked that it becomes plain Davy. We hear and road always of one Faraday. The living man has already obtained this highest of nominal distinctions, to be without a prefix. For ourselves, we know not whether it is Mr. or Sir that is omitted; but we know this, that if the Sir Is yet to come, it will drop off, it will not stick."
Mahomet And His Successors. By Washington Irving. There is an air of wild romance about these volumes which gives them a peculiar fascination. This may be in part owing to the peculiar character of the Arabs, as the author would very modestly have us believe. But recollecting, as we do, tho many grievously heavy tomes on the same subject which have been heretofore issued, we cannot but feel that we must seek for the fascination nearer home. It is Mr. Irving, and not tho subject, that has beguiled us. With that industry in the collection of facts
which has characterized all his writings, and with that peculiar felicity of manner, not less characteristic, by which he adorns whatever he touches, he has produced a work authentic as a history and yet as seductive as a professed work of fiction, fbr sale by A. Har% Philadelphia*
Allston's Poems And Lectures On Art. Baker d ) Scribner. We are informed by the editor of this volume, Mr. Dana, that on the death of Mr. Allston, it was determined by his literary executors to prepare his biography and correspondence, and publish them in connexion with his writings, the whole making two volumes of the size of the present. A delay has unfortunately occurred in the preparation of the biography and correspondence; and, as there have been frequent calls for the publication of his poems and of his lectures on Art, it was thought best to give them at once to the public in their present form, without awaiting the completion of the whole design. We are given to understand, however, that when the biography and correspondence are published, they will be in form and size to match the present volume. It is the second instalment of a rich legacy, the first being as yet unpaid and past due.
Redwood. By Miss Sedgwick. We are glad to see that Mr. Putnam, having nearly completed his valuable editions of Irving and Cooper, has commenced an edition of Miss Sedgwick's Works, uniform in size and appearance with the former. "Redwood," the first of the series, first appeared about fifteen years since. Its reappearance, in its present elegant attire, will be weleomed by many old friends, and by a large reading public that has come upon the stage since that time.
Hume's England. Harpers' Edition. No library is accounted complete which has not a copy of this standard historical work, and no opportunity, probably, has ever occurred, since its first publication, to procure a good copy at so small an expense. This edition is in six volumes, small 8vo. and is sold at retail at the small price of forty cents a volume in neat muslin binding. The work has been brought out with great rapidity. In our last number we had the pleasure of announcing only the first volume. The whole work is now complete. The publishers announce Milman's Gibbon's Rome, in the same style and at the same price. J'br sale by Dewitt ti Davenport, New York.
White-jacket; or the World in a Man-of-War. By Herrtum Mdville. Harpers. We have not been able to read this inviting volume—and ranch to our regret, for we doubt not, from the character of Mr. Melville's former volumes, the readers of "White-Jacket" are destined to a rare entertainment. Mr. Melville says in a preliminary note that in 1843 he shipped as an "ordinary seaman" on board of a United States frigate, then lying in a harbour of the Pacific ocean. After remaining in this frigate for more than a year, he was discharged from the service upon the vessel's arrival home. The experiences of that year form the basis of the present volume.
TnE Convict Ship. By Colin Arrott Browning, M.D. Lindsay d? Blakiston. The author of this interesting volume is a surgeon in the British navy, ne was placed in charge of some two or three hundred convicts during their transportation to the penal colony of Van Diemen's Land. Being a man of a truly Christian spirit, he deliberately undertook the reformation of these criminals, during their voyage. The results of his labours are given in the present publication. The book is remarkable, not so much for its style, as for the facts which it contains. Dr. Browning narrates with great simplicity and straightforwardness the steps which he pursued with these unpromising subjects. The results were of a character to awaken very strongly public attention in Great Britain, where the book has passed rapidly through four editions, and we doubt not a similar impression upon the public mind will follow the republication of the work in this country. The work is introduced to the American public with a recommendatory preface by the Rev. James Ii. Fowles, of Philadelphia.