CHAPTER XXII.

HAMBURG.-RESIDES AT

MR MONROE.-MR MORRIS LEAVES FRANCE.-TRAVELS IN SWITZERLAND. -VISITS M. NECKER AND MADAME DE STAEL.-BASLE.-SCHAFFHAUSEN. PASSES THROUGH GERMANY TO ALTONA. TRAVELS IN HOLSTEIN.-ARRIVES IN LONDON.-INTERVIEW WITH LORD GRENVILLE.-COUNT WARANZOW.-MR PITT.-TRAVELS IN ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND.-BISHOP OF LANDAFF.-CONVERSATION WITH THE KING.-RETURNS TO THE CONTINENT.-VISITS BERLIN, DRESDEN, AND VIENNA.-SIR MORTON EDEN.

MR MONROE arrived at Paris in August, 1794, as successor to Mr Morris, whose purpose then was to return soon to the United States. In the end, however, this plan was altered. He remained several years in Europe, visiting some of the principal Courts, and travelling through many countries. The limits of this memoir will admit only a brief notice of these peregrinations, and such sketches from his Diary, now again resumed, as will mark the occasional turn of his thoughts, and objects of his inquiry. He left Paris, on the twelfth of October, for Switzerland.

From the Diary, October 12th, 1794.- Before I left Paris, Mr Monroe called on me and explained his conduct and his views. He begins to find out that fine words are of little value; and his letters from America show me, that something more is expected, and justly expected there, for the many violences committed against our merchants. In my opinion, he has taken the wrong tone at first, and will find much difficulty in changing it now. Time must determine a pretty serious question on that subject, so far as I am personally concerned at least. I have the consolation to have made no sacrifice, either of personal or national dignity, and I believe I should have obtained everything, if the American govern

inent had refused to recall me. I rejoice that I am no longer in the pitiful situation, which I have so long endured. For the rest, experience must decide, and I hope that events will be favorable to America.'

On entering Switzerland, he passed a day with M. Necker at Copet, and another with Madame de Staël, who was then living in that neighborhood.

'October 23d.-Go to dinner at Madame de Staël's, where I am received with great warmth; the more necessary as I have a villanous ague. A good appetite at dinner, but the ague comes on very strong, and then the fever, which is gentle. We have much talk, or rather I have, for they are desirous of information both public and private; and I am more in condition to give it than most others. There is here a little French society, which live at her expense, and are as gay as circumstances will permit. The road to her house is up-hill and execrable, so that I think I shall not again go thither. On my return, being much out of sorts, I find the bed the properest place for me, and my pillow the fittest society.

Basle, November 9th.-Supper is here, I find, the great meal; dinner being an affair of twelve o'clock. In going out this morning I observed that everybody as I passed saluted me with great respect. I thought it odd, that the manners of any country should extend so far the exterior of civility, and especially to strangers. It seemed like what we read of in China. This evening Madame Ehinger explains the mystery. In the same inn with me lodge some deputies of the other Cantons, who according to the constitution, pass three months here, and are even obliged to live in this inn. They, it seems, use the same coach which I have for this day, and, of course, all the profound reverences, which I observed, were made to me as deputy-perhaps only to the coach. This extreme respect for the Magistracy proves, however, in favor of the government.

'Schaffhausen, November 15th.-Go with Monsieur Huber to see the falls of the Rhine, and walk a good part of

the way, which I think does me good. We look at the famous bridge. I am not architect enough to understand it, but I wonder much it has never been imitated. If time would permit, I would get a plan of it, for it would certainly be useful in America. The cataract of the Rhine is a very fine object. The color of the water, which resembles that of the ocean, is prodigiously fine when beaten into foam. There is also in the little slope of the rock, over which it rushes down, an advantage of effect; for the river, instead of seeming to fall from the want of a support, as is the case in perpendicular cataracts, here leaps and bounds, and then precipitates itself, as if indignant that anything should have presumed to impede its course. The whole height is said, from actual measurement, to be between seventy and eighty feet, and the river is large. At the foot is a good salmon fishery; but they take these fish, I understand, with a harpoon only, and the amusement of angling for them is unknown. I had always supposed that salmon returned to the sea after spawning, but I find this is not the case. They are taken in the Rhine all the year, and in December the flesh is quite white and very soft and insipid. Those which I have tasted at Berne and Basle are very poor at present, and they are growing worse daily.

'While we are at dinner, a woman comes in to sell a curious kind of stockings. They are lined with a silky fleece of some animal, and must be very warm. She asks a guinea a pair for them, and tells us that the Duke of Wurtemberg paid her two guineas a pairs. M. Huber, who talks German well, offers for me one guinea for two pair. She declares she cannot take it; and, conversing of the value, she says that to an Earl or a Count they are worth three crowns, and therefore Englishmen ought to pay four. He being a Swiss, and I an American, we send her away with our offer, and presently after she returns and accepts the one guinea for two pairs. So much for the candor and plain dealing of the Swiss. I think I have observed in this country, that the spirit of commerce has operated in the cities a depravation of morals, which

nothing can cure but that same spirit carried still further. It teaches eventually fair dealing as the most profitable dealing. The first lesson of trade is, My son, get money. The second is, My son, get money honestly if you can, but get money. The third is, My son, get money; but honestly, if you would get much money.'

Departing from Switzerland, our traveller pursued his route through Germany, by way of Studgard, Wurtzburg, Cassel, Gottingen, and Hanover, to Hamburg, where he arrived in December. At this place, or rather at Altona, near Hamburg, he resided during the winter and the following spring. In May he made a tour through Holstein to the borders of the Baltic, visiting the cities of Kiel and Lubec, and the beautiful Lake of Ploën, the subsequent residence of Lafayette and his family, after their release from Olmutz, which Mr Morris describes as affording one of the most enchanting prospects, that he had ever beheld.

Returned from this journey through Holstein, which had been merely a jaunt of pleasure for two weeks, he went over to London in June.

'London, June 29th.-This morning the Count de Moustier calls on me, and we have a long conversation. He is working to place himself as one of the new King of France's Ministers, if I can judge of his views by his conversation. He tells me, that the King will be well disposed to conciliate with all parties. I mention the Duke of Orleans, but he thinks that plan may encounter some difficulties. While he is here, Mr Burgess comes in. He gives me a rendezvous at Lord Grenville's, and descants on the rights of ci-devant Monsieur to be acknowledged as king of France; whence I conclude, that the administration here lean to that idea.

'Go thence to the Marquis de Spinola's. The conversation here, where our company consists of the Aristocrats of the first feather, turns on French affairs. They, at first, agree that union among the French is necessary. But, when they come to particulars, they fly off and are mad. Madame Spin

ola would send the Duke of Orleans to Siberia. An Abbé, a young man, talks much and loud, to show his esprit ; and, to hear them, one would suppose that they were quite at their ease in a petit soupé de Paris. Our little Abbé tells us, that the leaders, finding how strong is the disposition of the people towards monarchy, will place the Duke of Orleans on the throne, and that he, finding it impossible to gain the good opinion of the gentlemen of France, must at length accept. I ask him, if it be wise to place him in that predicament. He answers, whether wise or not, the King will not be able to prevent his followers from insulting him. There is, I fear, too much truth in this. His connexion with Montesquiou is mentioned, as a sad blot in his escutcheon; yet Montesquiou, whatever may be his heart, is certainly one of their best heads, and they have not too many people of understanding among them. Burgess spoke of them this morning with much contempt, and indeed their conduct is not calculated to inspire respect.

'July 2d. This morning at eleven, I wait by appointment on Lord Grenville, and stay till half past twelve. We have a long conversation on general politics, the line to be adopted by Great Britain in the present moment, and therein of acknowledging the French King. I mention the acquisition of Flanders by this country, and the advantages to be expected from it. His Lordship seems to be very attentive to this idea. I tell him my opinion of Prussia, and the relations in which it stands to this country, in which he seems to agree. I state to him what I conceive as practicable, respecting Austria and Russia, in the present moment, and show him how far it would affect France, by pushing the King of Prussia to extremity. This also strikes him forcibly. I state the various advantages, which might result from acknowledging the French King; the treaties which might be formed with him; the difference between appearing as auxiliaries and invaders; and further, the necessity of a moderate line of conduct on the part of the new King, so as to lessen, if not destroy, opposition to him. Touch on the means of keeping Spain steady. Observe to