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On our route we passed two cities, Argyrocastro and Libochabo, apparently little inferior to Yanina in size; and no pencil or pen can ever do justice to the scenery in the vicinity of Zitza and Delvinachi, the frontier village of Epirus and Albania proper.
On Albania and its inhabitants I am unwilling to descant, because this will be done so much better by my fellow-traveller, in a work which may probably precede this in publication, that I as little wish to follow as I would to anticipate him. But some few observations are necessary to the text,
The Arnaouts, or Albanese, struck me forcibly by their resemblance to the Highlanders of Scotland, in dress, figure, and manner of living. Their very mountains seemed Caledonian with a kinder climate. The kilt, though white, the spare, active form; their dialect, Celtic in its sound, and their hardy habíts, all carried me back to Morven. No nation are so detested and dreaded by their neighbours as the Albanese: the Greeks hardly regard them as Christians, or the Turks as Moslems; and in fact they are a mixture of both, and sometimes neither. Their habits are predatory : all are armed; and the redshawled Arnaouts, the Montenegrins, Chimariots, and Gegdes are treacherous; the others differ somewhat in garb, and essentially in character. As far as my own experience goes, I can speak favourably. I was attended by two, an infidel and a Mussulman, to Constantinople and every other part of Turkey which came within my observation ; and more faithful in peril, or indefatigable in service, are rarely to be found. The Infidel was named Basilius, the Moslem, Dervish Tahiri; the former a man of middle age , and the latter about my own. Basili was strictly charged by Ali Pacha in person to allend us; and Dervish was one of fifty who accompanied us through the forests of Acarnania to the banks of Acheloüs, and onward to Messalunghi in Ætolia. There I took him into my own service, and never had occasion to repent it till the moment of my departure.
When in 1810, after the departure of my friend Mr. H. for England, I was seized with a severe fever in the Morea , these men saved my life by frightening away my Physician, whose throat they threatened
to cut if I was not cured within a given time. To this consolatory assurance of posthumous retribution, and a resolute refusal of Dr. Romanelli's prescriptions, I attributed my recovery. I had left my last remaining English servant at Athens ; my dragoman was as ill as myself, and, my poor Arnaouts nursed me with an attention which would have done honour to civilization,
They had a variety of adventures , for the Moslem , Dervish , being a remarkably handsome man, was always squabbling with the husbands of Athens ; insomuéh that four of the principal Turks paid me a visit of remonstrance at the Convent, on the subject of his having taken a woman from the bath-whom he had lawfully bought howevera thing quite contrary to etiquette.
Basili also was extremely gallant amongst his own persuasion, and had the greatest veneration for the church, mixed with the highest contempt of churchmen, whom he cuffed upon occasion in a most heterodox manner. Yet he never passed a church without crossing himself; and I remember the risk he ran in entering St, Sophia , in Stambol, because it had once been a place of his worship. On remonstrating with him on his inconsistent proceedings, he invariably answered ; « our church is holy, our priests are thieves ; » and then he crossed himself as usual , and boxed the ears of the first ,« papas » who refused to assist in any required operation, as was
always found to be necessary where a priest had any influence with the Cogia Bashị of his village. Indeed a more abandoned race of miscreants cannot exist than the lower orders of the Greek clergy.
When preparations were made for my return , my Albanians were summoned to receive their pay. Basili took his with an awkward show of regret at my intended departure, and marched away to his quarlers with his bag of piastres. I sent for Dervish, but for some time he was not to be found; at last he entered, just as Signor Logotheti, father to the ci-devant Anglo-consul of Athens, and some other of my Greek acquaintances paid me a visit. Dervish took the money, but on a sudden dashed it to the ground; and clasping his þands, which he raised to his forehead, rushed out of the room weeping bitterly. From that moment to the hour of my embarkation, he continued his lamentations, and all our efforts, to console him only produced this answer, « Mã QELVET,» « He leaves me. » Signor Logotheti, who never wept before for any thing less than the loss of a para*, melled; the padre of the convent, my attendants, my visitors and I verily believe that even « Sterne's foolish fat scullion, » would have left her « fish-kettle, » to sympathize with the unaffected and unexpected sorrow of this barbarian,
For my own part, when I remembered that, a short time before my departure from England, a noble and most intimate associate had excused himself from taking leave of me because he had to attend a relation « to a milliner's, » I felt no less surprised than humiliated by the present occurrence and the past recollection.
That Dervish would leave me with some regret was to be expected : when master and man have been scrambling over the mountains of a dozen provinces together, they are unwilling to separate; but his present feelings, contrasted with his native ferocity, improved my opinion of the human heart. I believe this almost feudal fidelity is frequent amongst them. One day, on our journey ever Parpassus, an Englishıman in my service gave him a push in some dispute about the baggage, which he unluckily mistook for a blow; . he apoke not, but sat down leaning his head upon his hands. Foreseeing the consequences, we endeavoured to explain away the affront, which produced the following answer :- I have been a robber, I am a soldier; no captain ever struck me, you are my master, I have eaten your bread, but by that bread! (a usual oath ) had it been otherwise, I would have stabbed the dog your servant, and gone to the mountains. » So the affair ended, but from that day forward he never thoroughly forgave the thoughtless fellow who insulted him,
Dervish excelled in the dance of his country, conjcctured to be a remnant of the ancient Pyrrhic: be that as it may, it is manly, and requires wonderful agility. It is very distinct from the stupid Romaika, the dull round-about of the Greeks, of which our Athenian party had so many specimens.
* Para, about the fourth of a farthing.
The Albanians in general ( I do not mean the cultivators of the earth in the provinces, who have also that appellation, but the mountaineers) have a fine cast of countenance; and the most beau- 1 tiful women I ever beheld, in stature and in features, we saw tevelling the road broken down by the torrents betwen Delvinachi and Libochabo. Their manner of walking is truly theatrical ; but this strut is probably the effect of the capote, or cloak , depending from one shoulder. Their long hair reminds you of Spartans, and their courage in desultory warfare is unquestionable. Thongh they have some cavalry amongst the Gegdes, I never saw a good Arnaout horseman: my own preferred the English saddles, which , however, they could never keep. But on foot they are not to be subdued by, fatigue.
. Stanza xxxix. lines 1 and 2. Ithaca
Aotium, Lepanto , fatal Trafalgar.
Ştanza xl. line 5. · Actium and Trafalgar need no further mention. The battle of Lepanto , equally bloody and considerable, but less known, was fought in the gulph of Patras ; here the author of Don Quixote, lost his left hand,
Stanza xli. line 3. 'Leucadia , now Santa Maura. From the promontory (the Lover's Leap ) Sappho is said to have thrown herself.
Stanza xiv. line 4.
Anthony had thirteen kings at his levees.
Look where the second Coesar's trophies, rose !
Stanza xlv. line 5. Nicopolis, whose ruins are most extensive, is at some distance from Actium, where the wall of the Hippodrome survives in a few, fragments.
Stanza xlvii. line 1. According to Pouqueville the Lake of Yanina ; but Pouqueville ig always out.
Stanza xlvii. line 4.
The celebrated Ali Pacha. Of this extraordinary man there is an incorrect account in Pouqueville's Travels.
Disdain his power, and from their rocky hold
Stanza xlvii. lin 7.
Five thousand Suliotes, among the rocks and in the castle of Suli, withstood 30,000 Albanians for eighteen years : the castle at last was taken by bribery. In this contest there were several acts per formed not unworthy of the better days of Greece.
Stanza xlviii. line 1.
The conyent and village of Zitza'are four hours journey from